where is my starter and altenator?

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  #1  
Old 05-29-03, 12:10 PM
brandi12801
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Question where is my starter and altenator?

I need to find out where my starter and altenator is for my 1991 Ford Explorer. I have a graduation to go to.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-29-03, 02:42 PM
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They don't go bad together.What's the problem with the explorer?
 
  #3  
Old 05-29-03, 02:54 PM
brandi12801
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Unhappy

The Explorer won't start and I know that it is not the battery, because I just bought a new last Friday. The people at Advance Auto said that it could either be the starter, altenator, or the solenoid. He said that if I could take off the starter and the altenator, that he could test them to see if they are working. If they are, then it could be the solenoid. I want to try and have it fixed by tomorrow at 7:00 because I have a very important graduation to go to and I am just a silly female who don't know much about cars. Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
  #4  
Old 05-29-03, 03:06 PM
Joe_F
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Most places can check them IN the vehicle for you. I believe Autozone does.

Knowing a little about the vehicle and being patient is the difference between paying 300 bucks to change all of them and lick the problem versus changing/testing the bad part and being on your way.

You're still not specific enough to tell us what the problem is. Won't crank? Won't run? Turns over but doesn't start?

As Davo said, we need to know the actual problem.
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-03, 03:14 PM
brandi12801
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The actual problem is that all I get is a clicking sound. One minute it acts like it wants to start and then it starts clicking. Although, it hasn't done nothing but clicked today. I know that they can check those things while they are in the vehicle but I certainly can't take the vehicle to them. Any suggestions?
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-03, 03:18 PM
Joe_F
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Ummm, take the bus ? Lol. With a Ford you might as well (more reliable). LOL, j/k.

Could be a frayed or loose battery cable, or one in poor condition. Tough to say without seeing it.

You could tap on the starter with a hammer (gently) and if the Exploder, I mean Explorer starts, you likely have a bad starter. Replace it with a rebuilt.

Fords are usually bad with solenoids too, so I'd change that when doing the starter anyhow.
 
  #7  
Old 05-29-03, 03:23 PM
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If you have no power with a new battery check the positive cable they have been known to fail internally.If you have a digital voltmeter attach 1 lead to the positive side of the battery,attach the other lead to the positive post on the starter this may take a freind.Attemp to start the car,read the voltmeter reading while attempting to start.if you read above .5 volts the cable is bad.If the problem is not there repeat the test on the negative side,batt neg to where the neg cable attaches to the engine,repeat crank test and read volts,same applies nothing over .5 volts.After you do this you will know if the starter has the current flow capabile of operating it.Let us know what you find.
 
  #8  
Old 05-29-03, 04:40 PM
darrell McCoy
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NEW battery? I would start by checking cable connections and then check battery, even tho it is supposed to be NEW, check it anyway. Normally if alternator is not working it will show a red lite or discharge on your dash amp-meter. Ever try jump starting it yet? If it starts, that leads to your battery not being up to par. Do simple things first rather than start replacing expensive parts you may not need.
 
  #9  
Old 05-29-03, 05:46 PM
brandi12801
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Smile

The Exploder, I mean Explorer was given to me(you didn't actually think that i would buy one of those things did you?). LOL. In response to darrell's post, I have put on new things that connect the cables to the battery(can't you tell I am a female.LOL),and the cables themselves are in good condition. Thank you guys for all your help. I think that I will borrow some jumper cables and see if I can take it up to Advance Auto.
 
  #10  
Old 05-30-03, 02:15 PM
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I explained the proper way to test the cables.Eyeballs don't flow current.
 
  #11  
Old 05-30-03, 04:04 PM
Joe_F
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Putting it another way, if the cables are original, chances are they are wasted. If they are questionable, pitch them both for new ones without fail.
 
  #12  
Old 05-31-03, 09:14 AM
poleaxed
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Kind of sounds like you should have replaced the alternator when you replaced the battery. Just a thought.
 
  #13  
Old 06-01-03, 01:08 AM
Nexxus
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The alternator wouldn't have needed to be replaced with the battery. The fact that the car wont start with a new battery tells you that the problem is elsewhere. You could drive a good ten minutes with the alternator disconnected before you ran out of juice. Unfortunately for her it would be easier to get the alternator out than it would be to remove the starter.
 
  #14  
Old 06-01-03, 05:33 AM
poleaxed
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I should of said instead of the batery.If the alternator went out the car would run on battery for a couple of hours. Then it would die.Then she replaced the battery and the car will run for a couple of hours and then die again. So when she put the new battery in the car started and she thought she fixed the problem but realy the problem was with the alternator in the first place.
That was the thought I got when I read this thread.
 
  #15  
Old 06-01-03, 05:43 AM
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brandi how was the party?did the exploder get you there?
 
  #16  
Old 06-03-03, 10:53 PM
brandi12801
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I can't begin to tell you guys what a week I had. First of all the problems were the altenator AND the starter. Second, I got the Exploder fixed in time (barely) to go to my brother's graduation. The bad part about it was that it was so crowded that I didn't even get to see it. So, all that rushing around to get the "bomb" fixed was for nothing. I thank you guys for all the advice you have given me.
 
  #17  
Old 06-04-03, 06:02 AM
darrell McCoy
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s--- happens, look at it this way, now you got wheels. Glad you have it up and running. Sounds like you are on the way to being a good DIY'r. Good Luck.
 
  #18  
Old 06-04-03, 01:59 PM
Joe_F
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I always keep an extra car in the house so I'm never without a car in situations like this. LOL
 
  #19  
Old 06-17-03, 06:45 PM
brandi12801
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I do have an extra set of wheels but it has an idle control sensor problem and I figured that getting the Exploder fixed would be a lot simpler. I guess I should have got the other fixed (it would have been a lot cheaper...lol).
 
  #20  
Old 06-17-03, 09:13 PM
Joe_F
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Your other vehicle must be a Ford too?

Poor lady, glutton for punishment. LOL
 
  #21  
Old 06-19-03, 12:06 PM
jonathan_71730
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Ford's

?$#%# what do y o u mean ? Ford Own's & you know it...LOL
 
  #22  
Old 06-19-03, 06:03 PM
brandi12801
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Maybe I am glutton for punishment, but no the other one is not a Ford. It's a '85 Nissan Maxima. It is my baby. It is about ready to die on me though. It has 217,000 miles on it. The sensor problem is the only thing wrong with it .
 
  #23  
Old 06-21-03, 03:09 PM
jonathan_71730
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fords

ever ford i ever had got over 200,000 miles unless i wrecked it drunk ande i dog on them but do maintence them regularly.
 
  #24  
Old 06-23-03, 06:22 PM
brandi12801
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The Ford is not the one with over 200,000 miles. My Nissan Maxima is the one that is over 200,000 miles.
 
  #25  
Old 06-23-03, 07:31 PM
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jump start

You said that you will jump start that tells me your starter is good if it starts make sure you have no corrosion on the cables it looks like white powder. remove it with a wire brush.
 
  #26  
Old 06-26-03, 03:43 PM
jonathan_71730
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starters 4 starters

uh on a standard if the starters bad u can steal push start it
 
  #27  
Old 06-26-03, 03:54 PM
brandi12801
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Ummm... I am not talking about my Ford Exploder any more you guys. The Exploder is fixed. My other problem lies with my Nissan Maxima.
 
  #28  
Old 06-26-03, 04:16 PM
Joe_F
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Make a separate post with all the details.
 
  #29  
Old 06-26-03, 07:50 PM
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Here's an afterthought to brandi's problem...

If her original battery died, and that was the reason she bought the new one, the first culprit to look at would be the alternator. A car can still run, but the battery will go dead very quickly because the alternator isn't converting the engine's mechanical energy into AC and returning power back to the battery while you drive.

Next, she said that she heard clicking sounds when she tried to start it with the new battery in, which means that she did have power, so the main power cables were good and there was a complete circuit, also the fact that she didn't say anything about her accessories (radio, air, etc.) not working clues that the connection is good also. In the same token however, there may have been a weak connection to the starter solenoid, which could have been making the sound. If the current was too weak, the solenoid could have merely been jerking in place and been too weak to successfully turn the starter. The clicking that also could have been the starter slipping. Tapping it with a hammer really wouldn't have done all that much, except for the minute chance that it would have knocked the gears into a clean mesh.

Diagnosis:
Problem = Old dead battery: Cause = failure most likely caused by bad alternator: Action = Replace battery and test alternator: Test = Remove battery and jump start car... if car continues to run, the alternator is converting the mechanical energy properly

Problem = engine won't turn over: Ext = clicking sound heard during ignition: Cause = either solenoid or starter: Action = have someone outside the vehicle listen, if they hear solid metal on metal also, problem is most likely a frozen starter; if no sound is heard, problem is likely a bad solenoid, either not receiving enough current to turn the starter, or the coil inside the solenoid is burned up.




And Brandi... since no one answered your original question in the title of the thread... here goes...

I'm not positive with locations on F(***ed) O(ver) R(ebuilt) D(odge)'s, but the alternator is what looks like the motor of a big fan. It should be in the top of the engine compartment and a belt coming off of the front of the engine wraps around a wheel on it to turn the brushes inside and in turn create electrical current.
The starter for a F(ound) O(n) R(oad) D(ead) should be located underneath or on the passender side of the engine block. It is bolted directly to the engine and Should be within easy access.


Sorry to hear the graduation stunk.

~Lucas
 
  #30  
Old 06-27-03, 02:06 AM
Joe_F
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Umm, I'd disagree a bit.

ALWAYS start with the basics. That includes tightness, soundness and corrosion free connections. A poor connection can make you think you're ok, but if the cable is wasted and holding on by a strand you're in trouble.

When I got my 80 parts car Trans Am, I noticed the guy that gave it to me had to wiggle the cables for it to crank.

When I got it to my house, sure enough, the original 1980 cables were hanging on by a strand. Two new cables and never a problem since .
 
  #31  
Old 06-30-03, 10:04 PM
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Agreed, but having a vehicle w/no visible electrical problem (other than a battery dieing), and having to "wiggle the cables" to get a car to start aren't really an even comparison.
 
  #32  
Old 07-01-03, 03:10 AM
Joe_F
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Always the basics no matter what.
 
  #33  
Old 07-01-03, 05:46 AM
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Umm I'd disagree alot the statements made contradict themselves.I'm not going to elaborate either,except there is no such thing as an alternator it's a slang term for generator and you can't store ac voltage in an automotive battery.Voltage drop testing will show the inability of a circuit to flow current,having voltage doesn't equate to usable electrical energy.Voltage drop testing uncovers the problems you can't see.Now I'm done with this post.
 
  #34  
Old 07-01-03, 07:40 AM
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I want to hear more about the Fords with >200,000 miles. Are you counting miles while being towed??? Sounds like an entry for Ripley's!!!
 
  #35  
Old 07-01-03, 08:01 AM
BelairBoy
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fords

my parents have 4 ford vehicles and all of them are still running strong. Got an 87 aerostar with 200,000+ miles and it still runs like a champ. must admit though, had endless problems with the power windows, if you get a ford, get the ones with manual windows, cause the power ones go out......lol
 
  #36  
Old 07-02-03, 02:01 PM
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Davo, I never said the battery stored AC, I just said the alternator converts mechanical energy into AC. And no, an alternator and a generator are entirely separate things. A generator produces DC.


Here's the definition of an Alternator straight from an automotive dictionary:

Alternator:
(ALT) A device which produces alternating current (AC) by converting the engine's turning (mechanical) energy into alternating electrical current at all engine speeds. The AC must be rectified (converted from AC to DC) before reaching the vehicle's electrical system. The alternator is driven by a belt at the front of the engine. Alternators replaced the direct-current (DC) generators used up to the 1960's because they were less efficient especially at idle. The electrically demanding options like air conditioning forced the use of alternators over generators.
 
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