dumb dakota question

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  #1  
Old 06-02-03, 07:11 AM
avocadoisle
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dumb dakota question

Hi all,

I just changed the water pump on my 97 dakota 5.2L. Of course, this was a very enjoyable experience .

Now I want to flush the cooling system and go to close the drain valve - what the? No matter how much I tighten the little plasic valve or which position I rotate it to, water still drains out.

What am I doing wrong???

thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 06-02-03, 07:50 AM
truckdrivinfool
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All right I'll ask the obvious....You sure your turning it the right way to close it and not actually opening it all the way?
 
  #3  
Old 06-02-03, 07:54 AM
Joe_F
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That, or it's possibly stripped. A new one is a few bucks at any auto parts store.
 
  #4  
Old 06-02-03, 07:55 AM
avocadoisle
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Well, the Haynes manual I was going by didn't specify a direction so I assumed counter clockwise which opened the drain. Now I try to close it by turning clockwise and I must have turned it 20 revolutions but the water flow is not changing (I'm running water into the cap opening so I can tell when the valve shuts).

Is the drain a screw type plug or a position type valve?

Any suggestions?
 
  #5  
Old 06-02-03, 07:58 AM
Joe_F
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If it doesn't close tight in either direction it's stripped. Get a new part.
 
  #6  
Old 06-02-03, 07:59 AM
avocadoisle
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OK, sounds reasonable. How do I get the old one out?
 
  #7  
Old 06-02-03, 08:02 AM
truckdrivinfool
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Not sure which type a Dakota has but sounds like its probably stripped if you've turned it that far w/ no results.
 
  #8  
Old 06-02-03, 08:02 AM
Joe_F
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Should just screw or pull out.
 
  #9  
Old 06-02-03, 08:05 AM
avocadoisle
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Thanks Joe,

Since rotating it does nothing and the valve is plastic, I'm assuming I won't damage the threads on the radiator by pulling the valve out with a pair of vice grips. Correct?

David
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-03, 08:40 AM
Joe_F
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Probably not. I'd call or visit the dealer's parts department though to see what the new part looks like so you know what you are up against---why risk breaking the radiator???
 
  #11  
Old 06-02-03, 09:23 AM
avocadoisle
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OK, maybe I missed the obvious but here's an FYI:

it was not stripped, it just required a substantial amount of inward pressure to get it to engage and close. Problem solved. Guess I'm just used to the metal types that have more tactile feedback.

Thanks for all the input!
 
  #12  
Old 06-02-03, 09:30 AM
truckdrivinfool
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Good deal
 
  #13  
Old 06-02-03, 09:54 AM
Joe_F
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That works . LOL.
 
  #14  
Old 06-04-03, 09:20 AM
avocadoisle
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Angry The saga continues, please help!

Got the thing back together and now still have problems. The reason why I changed the water pump in the first place is that coolant appeared to be leaking from the pump (visible on surface of water pump) and the truck had been making squeaking noises for about a month or so.

After replacing the water pump, the leak is the same as before and the squeak is still happening intermittently. It's a very slow leak and only seems to happen under a load, and the truck is not overheating. I can't see any coolant coming from the thermostat housing above but there is still some coolant on the front of the pump housing.

Any suggestions?!?!? I have cancelled a trip up to see my mother in the hospital once already and really need to get there. May have to rent a car but the truck still needs to be fixed. Any ideas on where the leak could be?

TIA

David
 
  #15  
Old 06-04-03, 10:11 AM
Member
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Location: Colorado
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You could have a pinhole leak in one of the hoses especially near where the clamps go around the hose. This leak may only show up when the system is hot and under pressure.
 
  #16  
Old 06-04-03, 10:31 AM
avocadoisle
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I tried again to find the leak, letting the engine run for about 5 minutes and giving it throttle at 2500 rpm for about 3 minutes. After that time, using a flashlight, I could see coolant pooling in a depression on the top of the engine just in front of the thermostat housing, above the water pump. I could also see that the clamp holding the heater (?) hose, just next to the thermostat housing was quite rusty. Although I can't actually see where the coolant is originating from, I'm going to pull the thermostat housing and inspect the hoses for any problems. Seems like the next logical step. Thanks for the advice - will keep you posted for future reference.

David
 
  #17  
Old 06-04-03, 01:31 PM
Joe_F
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Pitch all the hoses, clamps and thermostat for new ones. It's due now anyhow.

Probably a leaky heater hose as you have found.
 
  #18  
Old 06-09-03, 07:50 AM
avocadoisle
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update

Finally found it - unfortunately had to pay to get it fixed because I needed the truck to go out of town and ran out of time. Had the cooling system pressure tested and it turned out to be the heater bypass hose (buried under the A/C compressor and alternator). Two hours labor plus parts - Ugh!

Thanks for the help!
 
  #19  
Old 06-09-03, 08:24 AM
Joe_F
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Glad it's fixed now.
 
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