1995 beretta , changing lower control arms


Old 06-04-03, 06:50 PM
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1995 beretta , changing lower control arms

I have a 1995 beretta with worn lower control arms. The cost to have them replaced is 700.00. I normally do my own oil changes, tune ups ,and minor repairs. Would this be a job i could complete? Does this job need special tools to complete? I have the time just not the money. Thanks for the help
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Old 06-04-03, 08:29 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
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Consider just replacing the control arm bushings as a lower cost alternative. Wait, instead, phone an auto parts store and get the prices on the various repair components. Sometimes replacing the control arm is a overall wise decision. Sometimes bushings are cheaper but still plenty of work.

I have not done a camero before, however that won't stop me from giving advice, lol. A powerful impact wrench will make the job alot more fun.

If not, then plan on at least a 1/2" drive socket set, including a breaker bar, and a torque wrench would be nice if you are not used to torquing large bolts. A 3/8" drive will never do that job. Also, the shorter your rachet handle, the harder the job. Professional series tools usually have long handled ratchets. Plan to have large punches and small sledge hammers on hand next to the beer cooler.

Sometimes the bolt will kinda rust/seize together with the metal sleeve, thus making the job really difficult. The problem in that situation is that the bolt is sized to fit through the hole, but the sleeve is sized larger so as to be held in place. So you see, if the sleeve and bolt are permanently seized together, you will have to get creative on just how to remove the old parts. It can be extremely difficult to swing a sledge hammer while laying on your back with a mere 18" of jack stand clearence between the floor and the car. You will have no way of knowing in advance if the bolts are seized or not. Just because the nuts come off without a hitch does not mean the bolts will just 'slip' out. Sometimes you will have to remove extra 'unplanned' large parts to get tool access to the seized bolt. If you plan for this extra disassembly time then you should be alright (?)

Myself, I would do the job, but I have a ton of tools, saws, prys, pneumatics, cutting torches(can't use torch here though), etc, to see me through. In other words, this can turn into a really nasty job. That's why it cost $700 bucks for the repair. The only thing you have in your favor is that the car is only 8 years old, and not 20 years old, but that is no promise of easy removal.

Best of luck
Old 06-05-03, 03:17 AM
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Check autolibrary.org below for the R&R procedure to see if it's something you want to tackle.
Old 06-06-03, 03:56 PM
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It can be DIY. I suggest you get the a Joint separator (Folk shaped metal rod), heavy duty puller (2 - 3 ton jaw puller), and long pipe to used it against the joint separator.

Your other alternative is to get 90+ psi air compressor, impact hammer, and joint separator kit for the hammer.

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