tensioner pulley

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  #1  
Old 06-09-03, 08:51 AM
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tensioner pulley

Had the van into the garage today for some ac work and they told me i need a new tensioner pulley for the main drive belt. the van has been squeeling at idle for quite some time at idle but goes away when you step on the gas. you can see the belt is not running where it should be on the tensioner cause it is bent. It is a 97 plymouth voyager, 3.0 litre, automatic. I can get the part for about $75 at the store but i was wondering how to change it. Do you just loosen the Bolt the opposite way? is there any precautions because it is under tension? thanks for any help
 
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Old 06-09-03, 09:06 AM
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You'll need a good breaker bar for leverage. Normally two different ways those can be done. Some tensioners have a 1/2" square hole near the pulley where you simply insert a 1/2" breaker bar. Then you take tension off by applying pressure in the opposite direction. Other tensioners just have a bolt head in the center of the pulley and you put either a socket or wrench on the bolt and relieve tension that way. When you have tension off, take the belt off the easiest accessory to reach and then carefully let off pressure on the tensioner. Be careful, it has lots of tension. Make sure you have room for the mechanism to rotate a fair distance without running into anything when you position your socket/wrench.

You can find additional info here:

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual%...delLookup.html
 
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Old 06-09-03, 09:46 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Very good advice from TowGuy.

(We're making a mechanic out of you yet...lol)
 
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Old 06-09-03, 10:14 AM
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it is the one with the bolt head in the middle. 14mm i think. once i have tension off and the belt removed from it. how do i get the wheel and assembly off. do i just turn the bolt head in the opposite direction and loosen it to remove the wheel and assembly. i called the parts store and they have just the wheel for or the whole assembly plus the wheel. i want to change both. thanks for all the help
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-03, 07:10 PM
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Yes, the 14mm one is it. You are smart to change the whole assembly, I have seen them come apart.
 
  #6  
Old 06-09-03, 08:08 PM
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Most of those chrysler engines, the bolt that holds the tensioner to the block actually comes out the "back side", with a 15mm nut holding the tensioner to the block. The bolt that you normally see (15mm) is the 1 that holds the pully to the tensioner..The easiest way I know of to change these is to do it from underneath.
As the others said, allow enough room when removing the belt for the tensioner to return, and not get your wrench hung in the fuel lines.
 
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Old 06-10-03, 09:34 AM
Joe_F
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I agree.
 
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Old 06-10-03, 10:27 AM
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Careful, Joe; I started turning wrenches on my first motor vehicle (a 1966 Yamaha 80) circa 1969. You were HOW old at the time? LOL.

BTW, got the heads off my FoMoCo headache Sunday. Almost easier than the nightmare timing cover gasket job from last year.
 
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Old 06-10-03, 12:04 PM
Joe_F
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1969: As the saying goes, I wasn't even a thought in my parent's eyes.

Hint: I was born in 1971 .
 
  #10  
Old 06-11-03, 04:48 AM
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1971? Let's see, I was on my 3rd m/c (Honda CL350 after a Honda CB160) and my first car (Austin-Healey Sprite). Paid $600 for the Honda and $550 for the A-H.
 
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Old 06-11-03, 06:06 AM
Joe_F
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Well there you have it . I started helping my dad in 1976 when I was five by handing him wrenches.

The rest they say is history. I used to have this toy called the Pit Change Charger (In fact, I STILL have it, among most toys from my youth ) and one day in the winter my dad came home and said to my mom "What did the kids do today?"

With that being said, I had take the PCC completely apart down to the last screw and put it back together perfectly. Ever since then, I've been intrigued by fixing things. LOL. My dad was in awe that I had it apart like that. LOL.

At that point, he knew he'd have a good helper
 
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