fuel synk code

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  #1  
Old 07-01-03, 08:42 PM
wtfdissux
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fuel synk code

i have an 89 plymouth voyager se with a 2.5l turbo which after some mech problems a few months ago has done quite well for what i paid. however lately on the other hand it has been "stalling" and at times i turn the key and nothing not even click(yes i do get indicator lights and so on but no start) but then it is fine. the reason i put quotes around stalls is it is more like it was turned off instantly no rpm nothing not a sputtering stall .
if the van is in motion when this happens it just as suddenly picks up again like normal.

i pulled codes booth from on board check engine light and tech 1 scanner and got in this order no speed sensor , no signal from or to asd, and lately i get code 54 no fuel sync signal .

for the speed sensor i found the o rind in the adapter housing was bad ,replaced and that one is gone but the other two keep coming back and wont act up when on scanner.

good thing my head is shaved or i would pull my hair out any help is appreciated.
 
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Old 07-01-03, 11:26 PM
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sounds like you have a few more problems to iron out here,

first, the big starter wire might be loose or corroded on the starter, or the little brown wire might be loose too or also corroded, rarely is a relay bad, but i've taken them apart and sanded the contacts down with success before, i've seen shift linkage slightly out of adjustment, try slamming it into park or just try it in neutral, it's easy enough to adjust correctly. when it doesn't start, open the hood and listen for the relay to be clicking, it will narrow the possibilities in half of what's wrong

next, the sync code, when you do get it running, wiggle every inch of the harness from the back of the alternator to the battery area. most recently i had a similiar situation that i narrowed down to a spread terminal on the ignition coil connector, but i had no codes. be extra wiggling on the wire from the distributor with the gray connector, that's the synch signal sensor, try every possible direction and even tug on it, then try the black connector wire, that will make the car stall right out as it is the rpm 'sense'. i think if it is running and it loses the synch signal, it keeps running, it's in memory for this cycle until you shut it down and try to restart, easy way to check that theory is to unplug the grey connector and see if it stalls. i've replaced plenty of distributor 'pick-ups' when these were in style and always had one in the glove box.


no signal to or from asd, i don't think i've seen this one yet, the asd controls all critical engine voltage--coil, injectors, fuel pump, oxygen sensor 'heater', alternator field feed, most other relays too. this missing voltage is sensed by the computer when the relay is off when the computer is commanding it to be on, could be dirty relay contacts, bad relay, or tied in to the above pick-up problem.

when someone has this many electrical problems and recent engine work(as you mentioned) you should double check all grounds, especially the one on the rear of the cylinder head above transmission, and also around the battery area that screw into the inner fender, like under the battery tray.

i replaced the computer on my sister's car for weird codes and mysterious stalling, it turns out the monkey who rebuilt the engine used the wrong bolt on that same ground on the back of the cylinder head, the bolt was tight, but it was one thread too long, it was bottomed out(tight) and the ground was still very slightly loose, after i replaced the computer it was still stalling, and i was about at the end of my rope until i saw sparks come from that bolt, one simple washer fixed everything!! i was ready to kill that mechanic, but it wouldn't solve anything, (it was me)
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-03, 06:57 AM
wtfdissux
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OK Maybe a bit more infofirst engine was"rebuilt before i got it and after i have done head gasket/head rebuild and timing belt replaced throttle kickdown cable to the tranny oil pan gasket all this on a rebuilt motor makes me wonder what they consider a rebuild prob. clean and replace plugs.....
any way the starter leads are good same with grounds to body and block and even one to tranny near differential cover. however i tryed looking at the leads from the dist. and found that they are both black so said hell with it till today as the most i could do was wiggle any way. i am going in to work today to try the other scanner(snap-on not tech 1)it has better testing capabillities.
as i remember the hall effect for turbo on these moters has an extra window that reads fuel timing or injector timing forget right word just got up and it was a long night is there a way to id the wire inside the cap[ either as fuel sync or ign? also any other ideas would help as i already tried most of mike in nj's
 
  #4  
Old 07-02-03, 06:59 AM
Joe_F
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Have you tried to tap on the starter body with a hammer when this happens to you? It could be a bad starter with a high spot.
 
  #5  
Old 07-04-03, 02:51 PM
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Location: Arkansas
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Another thing to look at is the wire harness/bundle along the passanger fender well, in the engine compartment.. Chrysler puts a TON of fusable links there, and have seen where battery acid will eat away at those things.. You have to look fairly close to them as they usually break inside the insulation..The one's I've run across are broken near 1 end or the other, not in the middle..
 
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Old 07-05-03, 06:36 PM
wtfdissux
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ok now that the holiday is behind me i have found out a little more the starter is bad (smack it and it starts). and maybe a sulution for the rest , is there a way to test the dist. pick up i dont know for sure but think there was probs with thoseon earlier engines also?
 
  #7  
Old 07-05-03, 11:01 PM
Joe_F
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A pickup plate is cheap for this vehicle (dual switch). Throw it out and replace it if it's old. They ARE problematic on this one.

Get a Mopar reman starter for the application and you should be good to go.
 
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