Vibration = caliper?

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  #1  
Old 07-02-03, 09:03 AM
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Vibration = caliper?

Hi All. I've got a1993 Acura Integra RS 2 door manula trans with 221000 miles on it. Disc brakes all around. Last february the passenger side rear caliper froze up on it. I had that replaced (ouch$$$) but now the car has developed a vibration. The first time this happened, I limped it home and took a look, but all I could find was a burned brake smell at the drivers side rear wheel. I removed the caliper mounting bolts and worked the piston in and out (this one threads in and out) put it back together and it was fine for a few weeks. Lately, the vibration has started again. I think it's due to the rear drivers side brakes hanging up, although they never seem to hang up enough to impeded the car's movement, ie. it still coasts fine, and you can't feel that the brake is dragging. I accidently discovered that stopping the car and backing up a few feet will make the vibration go away.

I assumed that the caliper on this side needs to be replaced, but could it be something else causing the vibration? (I had a Subaru wagon that suffered a broken spring in the rear drum one day and that felt like driving over rumble strips at highway speed when that happened so I thought that this might be similar except that this is steady when it starts not on off on off like the subaru was.)

Also, what makes a caliper go bad and should I just try to replace the parts in the one that I have instead of replacing it out right?

Thanks.-
 
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  #2  
Old 07-02-03, 09:05 AM
Joe_F
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The flex hoses that go to the caliper could be bad as well. I'd throw those both out in favor of new ones.

At this stage of the game, new calipers wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-03, 10:14 AM
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Ok here's another for you... The manual says not to mix different brands of break fluid, but it does not say how to totally drain the system and put all new stuff in. Is that necessary or can I just top it off if needed when I bleed the brakes after installing the new caliper and hoses?

Thanks.
 
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Old 07-02-03, 11:15 AM
Joe_F
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I believe they are stating not to mix different TYPES of fluid (DOT 3 versus DOT 4). Read the manual again to confirm.

DOT 3 fluid is generally DOT 3 .

With doing a caliper job, you will likely purge out all of the old fluid (or you should) with your bleeding operations.
 
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Old 07-04-03, 05:02 AM
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Many times, it's not the caliper piston that hangs, it's the slides and guides that mount the caliper over the rotor that freeze up..these need to be properly lubricated each time a brake job is done..
Also, what style of parking brake to you have? Is it the type that is made into the caliper, or do you have little shoes under the rotor?
 
  #6  
Old 07-05-03, 02:53 AM
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I believe theparking brake is a part of the caliper. There are nmo other little brake shoes that I'm aware of. Just a cable assembly at the top of the caliper.

When the problem first started I pulled the caliper off and just screwed the piston back into the caliper. (that's how you reset the piston when you put new pads in, you screw it back into the caliper to gain the extra clearance needed for the new pads) The slides worked fine, no corosion visible and they appeared to move freely.??? i don't know what part inside this caliper went bad, but about 6 months ago the other rear caliper went and that one froze up tight to the rotor to the point that I had to pull over and get the car towed to the garage. That was a $300 dollar fix so whjen this started to give me trouble I figured I'd order the parts and do it myself. Parts were only $150 by themselves.

Thanks for all the input so far, keep it coming since I'm not putting the parts o til this Thursday.
 
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