carbeurator

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  #1  
Old 07-04-03, 05:39 AM
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carbeurator

I just picked up a 1978 RV that has a Dodge 360 v8 engine. They just replaced the fuel pump because it was leaking, so I went to pick it up and I drove it home on the highway about 40 minutes with no problems. When in town, it began to run very rough and die every time i slowed down to idle. I'm thinking it is flooding out at idle and i'm wondering...are the fuel mixture screws the way I adjust this? Is the float maybe set wrong...it seems that would affect acceleration more than idle, am i wrong? it is a holley 2 bbl.

thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 07-04-03, 05:43 AM
Joe_F
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It could have vapor lock...some vehicles are bad for that.

I would lean more to a carburetor rebuild. Change all the gaskets, choke pull off, choke thermostat and float with all new parts.

These 2 barrel Holleys are pesky stallers and leakers, so it will take a lot of time and patience to get it all straightened out.
 
  #3  
Old 07-04-03, 07:58 AM
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rebuild the carb, make sure the choke is working properly and there is a steel gas line running between the carb and the fuel filter, it has a 180 degree bend in it, take it off soak in gas or solvent then run a swab through it. You probably will not need your choke set up very well in the heat but when it gets colder it will be very important. If you rebuild the carb yourself, Haynes put's out a Holley book that is helpful. Also make sure the needle valve is changed. Good luck and Happy 4th to all.
 
  #4  
Old 07-05-03, 10:58 AM
morlock
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if it's flooding, I don't think it would be your idle, I'd say it is your float and it's sitting too low and not cutting it off fully. so as long as your giving it gas and using the gas that's in the bowl your fine, but when you stop, and the pump is still pumping it up into the bowl, it will start to come up through the overflow valve on the top of the carb and dump into the engine, so raise the float so it cuts off earlier. I had the same problem with my 67 mustang. I strongly suggest a rebuild, by a rebuild kit from your local parts store, follow all directions and specs for your carb and I would also buy a new brass float to replace the old foam one that way you don't get the flooding problem again from a float that won't cut off.
 
  #5  
Old 07-05-03, 12:11 PM
Joe_F
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Brass floats versus nitrophyl:

Stick with whatever the OEM material is. Brass floats leak at the solder joints and take on fuel as well. Always pitch the float when doing a carburetor rebuild to avoid doing it twice. Most floats cost under $15.
 
  #6  
Old 07-06-03, 04:54 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I'm going to put on a rebuilt carburetor rather than rebuild it myself. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
  #7  
Old 07-06-03, 06:37 AM
knuckles
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Arrow

Buy a genuine Holley Reman. carb or have yours rebuilt by a local rebuilder.

Some of the generic "white box" reman carbs. are absolute junk & end up causing more problems than they solve.
 
  #8  
Old 07-06-03, 07:26 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Correct, not to mention you can get any core/unit that "fits".

I have seen 1981 carburetors in those white boxes cataloged for 1982 and up applications on GM. The metering rods and contol parts are totally different between '81 and '82. It will "work", but not without a lot of adjustment and frustration.

Knuckles is 110% correct. Preference is to keep your original unit and have it rebuilt.
 
  #9  
Old 07-06-03, 07:41 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks again. Yes, I had a Holley unit ordered but since it wasn't going to be in until tuesday, i decided to mess around with this one. I determined it had a couple of problems...the needle valve on the float was sticking just a very tiny bit, and the choke pulloff unit has a slight vacuum leak. With cleaning and a float re-adjustment, I got it to run. The choke pulloff works ok with a new vacuum line, but doesn't completely pull the choke open until the engine is very hot. Since the temp here is close to 100 degrees anyway, I want it to fully open. I'm going to call Holley and see about a rebuild kit from them.I'll also order the pulloff unit and I'm pretty sure I'll be set. Thanks to all for steering me in the right direction!
 
  #10  
Old 07-07-03, 03:31 AM
Joe_F
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You can order all the needed parts from any auto parts store. Just take the carburetor ID # with you. It is usually a # like R1001 or R1001A.

It is eiher stamped on the air horn or on the base. Sometimes it says "List #". That # will help the parts store get you the right parts.
 
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