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2000 F150 Clutch Problems


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07-19-03, 12:36 PM   #1  
hhouse
2000 F150 Clutch Problems

I bought a 2000 F150 XL V6 5 speed last fall and shifting into first and sometimes second has always felt a little tight. The clutch pedal has 3-4 inches of play and when I took it to a mechanic 6 months ago, he said it was fine and didn't need anything. I also think he was in a hurry and couldn't work me in to look thoroughly. This shifting problem comes and goes, but has recently become very difficult. Today, I have driven it 3 times in 3 hours and the 1st time it was fine, the second almost impossible to get into gear, and the 3rd time was fine again. Any idea what is going on? There is plenty of clutch fluid. Are there any adjustments I can make. I can probably make repairs myself if it doesn't involve pulling the transmission.

 
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07-19-03, 01:36 PM   #2  
hard to get into gear means the clutch isn't disengaging fully, 3-4 inches of pedal free play means the clutch isn't disengaging fully also. i would try to bleed the systen (if possible) and keep bleeding until all the fluid is changed, the smallest 'pop' of air when bleeding can make the biggest difference.

try pumping the pedal a few times quickly when you experience the problem, it will build up pressure(and travel of the linkage) and see if that 'fixes' the problem, if not, simple things like a rusted pilot bearing or even rust on the input shaft splines will cause the clutch dics to stick against the flywheel and cause what you describe

let us know what you find

make sure you don't have three floormats scrunched under the pedal too!

 
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07-19-03, 03:08 PM   #3  
Joe_F
How many miles on the vehicle? Has the clutch ever been replaced?

 
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07-19-03, 04:11 PM   #4  
hhouse
only 51K miles and 39K when we bought it. We were told no repairs had ever been made at all and we have not had any problems with it besides this issue.

 
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07-19-03, 06:12 PM   #5  
hhouse
can't bleed?

Well, my clutch fluid line goes into the trans case, but I don't see a bleeder valve anywhere. The case has a rubber plug that I pulled out but I don't see a valve. Is there some other way to bleed this? I could try to remove the line where it ends, but I don't know how easily it comes off.

 
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07-19-03, 08:28 PM   #6  
Joe_F
Have you looked in autolibrary for any procedures? Start there.

 
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07-19-03, 10:03 PM   #7  
i don't have much ford experience, this sounds like a slave cylinder that sits around the input shaft(concentric), the only time i've seen this was once on a viper, about an inch above where the line goes in is another fitting coming out, that's the bleeder screw in that application. your's could be anywhere or nowhere, it really depends, some systems are sealed. i know jeeps use this concentric system and have had mucho problems with this leaking, fluid leaks out and air manages to get in, causing what you describe. i would call to a few dealer service departments, ask if the 'foreman' has a few minutes to talk to you, (not the advisor at the desk who answers the phone), describe what you have, and ask what you can do. he'll probably tell you what they've been doing to everyone they've seen, as i'm sure your's isn't the only one doing it. i'm not even a foreman anymore(by my choice) and i'm still on the phone once a month, mostly to independant shops who need a little help.

 
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07-20-03, 05:52 AM   #8  
hhouse
I tried The Basics before I posted, but unfortunately, 2000 F150s aren't included in AutoLibrary. I'll see if I can find an inexpensive repair manual.

Thanks for the help.

 
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07-20-03, 07:55 AM   #9  
Joe_F
Try 1997, 1998, or a close year. Same basic thing.


Inexpensive and repair manual should not be in the same sentence. Information is power. You'll want the best information you can get to effect a quality repair.

 
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07-20-03, 08:25 AM   #10  
hhouse
I agree, there's a difference, but the last F150 I had ran perfect for 150K miles at which point I sold it. I can't see spending $250 on a manual for one repair.

 
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07-20-03, 10:13 AM   #11  
darrell McCoy
dont loosen or remove any lines until you are sure of the problem, inviting more trouble without proper svc procedures. Agreed, talk to a ford shop tech first. It may be something as simple as an upgraded trans lube/oil. Years ago GM used A/T fluid in the manual trannies, same type shifting problem on some models. They came out with an upgraded oil for there"quick fix". Such as it was. RE:: 3-4" of pedal play seems a little much to me. As Mike sez, try pumping clutch a few times and see if you have less pedal travel. Has it been this way from 39k?

 
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07-20-03, 10:53 AM   #12  
hhouse
Thanks, Darrell. It has pretty much been this way since we got it at 39K. It drove fine most of the time so I didn't assume that 3-4 inches was too much.

 
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07-20-03, 12:59 PM   #13  
Joe_F
Umm, wherever you are seeing them being sold for $250, let me know, I want to sell the ones I have there!

I never understood why there is a reluctance to buy a book for a vehicle. If you're keeping the vehicle, the information pays for itself the first time you're using it.

BTW: I've spend under $200 for ALL of the factory books for ALL of my 5 cars!

 
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07-20-03, 02:55 PM   #14  
hhouse
The helminc.com link I followed has work shop manuals for the 2000 F150 for $200. Please let me know where I could get a good quality manual cheaper.

Thanks

 
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07-20-03, 06:09 PM   #15  
Joe_F
They should be available on CD-ROM cheaper through Helm as you probably looked up the printed books when you searched.

Some other places:

Dan Bower at [email protected]
Dan Klein at [email protected]
"Dave's Books" on Ebay.

And I see manuals for trucks all the time on Ebay, so you should check there.

 
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07-20-03, 09:54 PM   #16  
my personal opinion on cd-rom service manuals----they suck!!!!!!

i hate them, i wish they were never invented, i wish they weren't sold, i hate the people who make them, i hate their families, i hate their friends.

how long will a thousand dollar laptop last under the hood of a car, as you scroll pages on a wiring diagram, with greasy hands, in bright sunlight so the screen is invisible.

how long will you walk back and forth from the mainframe to the car to get the information you need, it gets tiring FAST.

just my humble opinion

i like paper!!

 
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07-21-03, 03:42 AM   #17  
Joe_F
Cost, time, storage, money.

That's why the OEM's did it. Also, multiple models/years can be fit on one disc.

I'd agree, sometimes paper is better. But then again, my library of parts and service literature at home in theory is much smaller than most dealers.

We have parts books and electronic at work. If GM kept on sending paper catalogs to update as they did in the past, you'd need two rooms double the size we have now to store everything! I can keep all the CD's in one cabinet for a few years of updates.

Ford used to send us paper updates for parts books. They were TERRIBLE. You had to sit there page by page to do the updates, every month. Sometimes it could come in three, four, five, seven, ten boxes! LOL.

With DVD-ROMs now (the way we have it), I click five buttons, walk away, and in 30 minutes, I've got my pricing and updated parts books from 1980 to 2003 for all Fords .

 
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07-21-03, 06:44 AM   #18  
hhouse
Didn't mean to get you guys riled up.

 
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07-21-03, 06:56 AM   #19  
Joe_F
Nah, just talking back and forth . No arguments here.

The more we talk, the more we learn. Have you resolved the clutch problem???

An idea: $25 Alldata.com subscription will have good information and is a cost effective alternative to a shop manual (although I recommend the latter).

 
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07-21-03, 07:04 AM   #20  
hhouse
Haven't resolved it yet; I'm going to take the advice I got about talking to a shop foreman to see if I might try anything in particular. It looks like there's no bleeder valve that I can get to with the transmission still in.

 
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07-21-03, 10:12 AM   #21  
Joe_F
Rereading, you MAY have a stuck clutch that is staying engaged and not releasing. A bad throwout bearing for instance could cause this.

You did check to see that the fluid level in the tranny is up where it should be right? .

 
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07-21-03, 07:51 PM   #22  
a bad 'pilot' bearing would cause this, i've yet to see a throwout bearing cause a clutch not disengage, the hydraulics will usually take up the slack caused by a worn bearing, similiar to a disc brake caliper compensating for a worn pad.

if the pilot bearing was bad, like seized, it would keep the input shaft spinning at engine rpm and no matter how far you pushed the clutch pedal, the shaft would still spin and have this problem.

HHOUSE: just thought of something else, when you can't get it into first gear, and pumping the pedal has minimal affect, try to get it into any forward gear, if 3rd, 4th or 5th works, but first wouldn't, that is likely a worn blocker ring/friction element inside the trans, most times changing the trans fluid will fix that.

 
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07-22-03, 07:53 AM   #23  
hhouse
I hate to say it, but I took for granted that the trans fluid would be fine, so I haven't checked it. I'll replace it tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips; I'll let you know how it works.

 
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