96 tahoe AC clutch

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  #1  
Old 08-04-03, 10:43 AM
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96 tahoe AC clutch

Sounds like the bearing is going out. The repair book I have doesn't say anything about the clutch, it only has instructions to replace the entire compressor. I also understand I will need a special tool to remove this clutch as well as putting the new one on. Can any one give me instructions, refer me to instructions and tell me exactly what the special tool is called so I can get the right one? Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-04-03, 11:13 AM
Joe_F
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Looks like a standard C-clip from the picture in the GM parts book. Sears or any good tool source should have the pliers with the adapter tips you need.

May not be just the clutch. Maybe the coil and other parts of it.
 
  #3  
Old 08-04-03, 11:57 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I just got off the phone at a parts house and they confirmed I will need one specialized tool to get the clutch off and another one to put the new one on. They will cost about $110.00. The entire clutch assembly will cost about $188.00. A compressor with a clutch runs between $199.00 (remanufactured) and (new) $299.00 to almost $700.00 from the dealer. The vehicle has 105,000 miles on it. Based on your experience how long have these pumps been lasting and would you just go ahead and replace it? Thanks again.
 
  #4  
Old 08-04-03, 12:04 PM
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Just tried your link at cybrrparts.com and the chiltons book doesn't cover any of the AC components, they just tell you to take it to a mechanic. You refer to a autolibrary.org link in your signature file? How do I get there? I am over an hour from town, from the sound of the bearing I don't think I'll make it there without a tow. Makes me long for the days when each accessory had it's own belt! Any help is appreciated.
 
  #5  
Old 08-04-03, 12:40 PM
Joe_F
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If you're going to fix it yourself, you'll need a GM manual for the proper R&R of the A/C components.

Also, A/C service is not DIY repair without the proper tools as refrigerant is involved which can blind you.

Autolibrary may not cover that model, try K1500 instead.
 
  #6  
Old 08-04-03, 12:42 PM
Joe_F
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If you're going to fix it yourself, you'll need a GM manual for the proper R&R of the A/C components.

At minimum, an alldata.com subscription for $25 will do, but won't be as good.

Also, A/C service is not DIY repair without the proper tools as refrigerant is involved which can blind you.

Autolibrary may not cover that model, try K1500 instead.
 
  #7  
Old 08-04-03, 02:06 PM
darrell McCoy
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Bently:
I seen some Old GM compressors run for years and then some of the newer ones develop leaks around the center seals, so new they were replaced under warranty. Recently my 96 GM, did this and I got a new compressor for 500 bucks. Std 1 year warranty. Leak was not bad, but it wouldnt fix itself. Know what I mean? if you can find a good friend, maybe they can get it at a discounted price. However I have seen several remanufactured ones and were terribly noisy. My dealer does not recommend them because of the noise complaints. My 2-1/2 cents.
 
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Old 08-04-03, 05:04 PM
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Thanks for the info and the 2 and a 1/2 cents.
 
  #9  
Old 08-04-03, 08:26 PM
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Unless the front seal is leaking extremely bad, you should not have to remove the freon from the system to change out the clutch and pully assemby on the compressor. It does take a special puller to pull the clutch face off. I'd pre-measuer the air gap before removing..I've seen the air gap range from .018 to .028..Depends on application. Once you have the "face" off the compressor, then there is a snap ring that coil and pully assembly on. Remove the coil and pully, and then install in reverse order.
Some places will sell just the coil and "face", other's just the pully and bearing assembly..Replace the whole thing. I'd assume Autozone, with their tool rental program would have the puller needed. You may have to remove the top half of the radiator shroud to get clear access to the clutch, but overall, about an hour job..
 
  #10  
Old 08-05-03, 07:31 AM
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Thanks for the information. What is the "air gap" you refer to? I have replaced the clutches on numerous tractors, swather and combines, all of which have had a tapered shaft with a key....no chance of putting it on wrong. GM had to make it complicated?!
 
  #11  
Old 08-05-03, 08:41 AM
Joe_F
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Arrow

Air gap=space.

Again, suggest you pick up some good service literature if you're going to do the clutch yourself.
 
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