Interpreting Codes

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  #1  
Old 08-25-03, 08:41 AM
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Interpreting Codes

Hello,
I've got a 93 Ford Escort Wagon with a 1.9 4-banger and 130k.
It has a "stumbling" problem that at first was annoying, now it happens all the time.
On the highway, (rarely around town), it stutters or stumbles-runs real rough untill you downshift and it smoothes out.
Ive pulled the codes a few times and they tell me it's leaning out-but not why.
Can anybody help me interpret the codes or run into this problem before?
I'll list all the info I can think of.
Thanks in advance.

Codes;
171 Fuel system at adaptive limits-HEGO Sensor 1 unable to switch bank 1
172 Lack of HEGO sensor switches indicate lean bank 1
181 Fuel system at rich adaptive limit at part throttle system lean bank 1
186 Injector pulse width higher than expected

Tested fuel pressure and injector resistance-both within specs
Cleaned mass air screen
Also within the last 20K or so-
new plugs, wires, air-fuel filters, HEGO sensor, timming belt-water pump, fuel pump, and TPS.
Thanks Again.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-25-03, 06:45 PM
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i would start by checking your maf sensor again, this time dont clean the screen remove the 2 screws holding the sensor in and clean any material off the 2 wires with carb cleaner also should check for any vacum leaks the pcv hose elbow is a common vacum leak on this car, and the air intake tube from maf sensor to engine for holes that would allow unmetered air into the engine, then i would suggest clearing all codes by disconnecting the battery and test driving and rechecking for codes.
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-03, 07:16 PM
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Thanks bejay
I'll check that meter again the way you described and search for those leaks-I'll let you know what/if I find anything
Thanks again,
slickshift
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-03, 10:00 PM
mike from nj
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simple question---did you check fuel pressure while the problem was actually occuring, a weak pump would produce enough pressure at idle, however, while driving, it might not be able to handle the increased load, taping the guage to the windshield works for me, i also use a small screwdriver to put next to the hose where it goes through the hood, so the hose doesn't get crushed, affecting the pressure.

as BJ said, unplugging the battery is good, for two reasons, not only does it erase codes, it resets all the 'learned' adaptive fuel values, then you have a clean slate to work from--after you replaced all those parts, you might have fixed one or two of the codes already.
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-03, 04:43 AM
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No, I didn't check the fuel pressure while driving it-I'll try and rig something up, thanks
I usually disconnect the battery while (or after) replacing electronic parts, and with this project I have done it a few times just to see if it helped/worked/eliminated/added codes
so far same old same old
It just occurred to me the hose on my fuel pressure gauge is way to short to tape to the window with the hood down, can I safetly add an extension? or is there a type avail. with a longer hose?
It seems to me that it would be a really good idea-the problem doesn't happen at idle or while revving it in my driveway!
 
  #6  
Old 08-26-03, 09:07 AM
Joe_F
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Sometimes you can just "latch" the hood enough to close it and yet, still have the hose snake out of there without being pinched.
 
  #7  
Old 08-26-03, 12:20 PM
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Gotcha-latched but not all the way closed
My gauge hose definitely won't reach all that way so I'm going to have to poke around for an extension are a longer hose
Thanks guys
 
  #8  
Old 08-26-03, 12:27 PM
Joe_F
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There's some bulletins at Alldata.com that I suggest you check out with a dealer (have them print you off a copy) so you can see if they apply to you and what the fix might be.

http://alldata.com/TSB/19/93191544.html
 
  #9  
Old 08-27-03, 07:23 PM
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Thanks Joe F-I'll try that too!
 
  #10  
Old 08-27-03, 07:31 PM
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Joe F-Yeah there's a service bulletin or two there huh?
Looks like I may want to look at a few other things while I'm poking around under there tommorrow!
Thanks a bunch!
 
  #11  
Old 08-28-03, 09:20 AM
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I cleaned the black gook of the wires on the MAF and checked for leaks in the air intake and pcv-they look fine
One hose from the valve cover to the (pre MAF) air box looks cracked on the surface but doesn't seem to leak.
I'm going to replace it anyway
I disconnected the battery and reconnected after I hooked everything back up
So now I'll drive it around a bit to get that hose, try and find a fuel pressure gauge with a longer hose, stop at the Ford place to pick up some service bulletins, and see if get that stumble or any codes
Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 08-29-03, 10:01 AM
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Wow, 130 highway miles so far and no stutter chug or downshifting needed yet. (15 or 20 would have been good before)
No codes yet
There was alot of goop on those MAF wires-that had to have been affecting drivability
The Ford place couldn't print me TSBs-their "satalite was down"
The NAPA guy is going to rig me up a fuel pressure gauge with an extra long extension
Thanks to all for your help and ideas
This is one great and helpful forum!
 
  #13  
Old 08-29-03, 10:49 AM
Joe_F
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Good for you and let us know the progress.
 
  #14  
Old 08-29-03, 03:54 PM
mike from nj
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my 'extra long' fuel pressure guage is my old r-12 a/c guage hose. same threads and i'm not allowed to use the guages anymore anyway(in work anyhow!)
 
  #15  
Old 08-29-03, 07:31 PM
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LOL!
That's great
Guess it's not an "obsolete" tool anymore
Sounds like it works pretty good
 
  #16  
Old 08-30-03, 03:42 AM
Joe_F
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Mine would be the free one Autozone would be renting me if I didn't own one
 
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