Oxygen sensor?

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  #1  
Old 08-31-03, 10:26 AM
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Oxygen sensor?

Hey,
My check engine light reappeared in my 90 toyota pick up since my last question. According to the codes, it may be the oxygen sensor. Now, can anyone tell me where it is and how difficult it is to change?
thanks
birch
 
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  #2  
Old 08-31-03, 02:47 PM
mike from nj
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every oxygen sensor i ever saw was a 7/8 wrench or socket in the exhaust, before the cat converter, usually one wire on something that old. if it sticks in the pipe, heat the pipe up slightly to help it out.
 
  #3  
Old 08-31-03, 03:42 PM
Joe_F
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Shouldn't be bad. Heat the engine up a bit, and it should come right out as Mike stated.
 
  #4  
Old 08-31-03, 03:53 PM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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It's in the front pipe and is held in by (2) 12mm nuts. Spray them for a couple of days. If the nuts are rounded (usually are) use vise grip, chisel, or cut off wheel to remove.

larry
 
  #5  
Old 08-31-03, 03:58 PM
Joe_F
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Lol. Failing memory.

Larry is correct. It is a flange type Nippondenso sensor .
 
  #6  
Old 08-31-03, 08:56 PM
mike from nj
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it looks like i learned something today too.
 
  #7  
Old 09-01-03, 12:31 AM
KatWoman
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A store like AutoZone might have a special socket kit you can rent. I just changed both of my O2 sensors a few months ago; The socket kit cost $15 to rent and I got the $ back when I returned it.

As far as difficulty, it depends...my upstream one was a piece of cake but the downstream was more difficult. The whole job took me about an hour. The Haynes manual is also my best friend
 
  #8  
Old 09-01-03, 05:39 AM
Joe_F
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The "special tool" is a 12mm wrench as Larry stated, or if it's stuck, the other methods he mentioned
 
  #9  
Old 09-02-03, 11:14 AM
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Location: illinois
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Any of you see a oxygen sensor snap by applying too much force when trying to break it free when removing it??

I wanna repalce mine but dont wanna open up a can of worms and mess up my exhaust manifold.
 
  #10  
Old 09-02-03, 11:28 AM
Antony W. Serio
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I was trying a little too hard to torque off the O2 sensor on my old Pontiac 6000, and wound up snapping off the threads on the exhaust manifold!!!! It turns out there was a hairline crack around the sensor itself.
 
  #11  
Old 09-02-03, 09:40 PM
mike from nj
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george, i've replaced probably well over a hundred sensors by now. never saw one snap, the worst i've seen is it take all the threads out of the pipe with it.

with a cold engine(overnight cold) put a wrench or appropriate socket squarely on it and keep it straight. give it a good tug and usually it will pop loose and come right out. if that didn't work, i'll take the acetylene torch and heat the pipe/manifold cherry red as fast as possible---theory of, making the pipe expand off of the sensor. this usually works, but every once in a while, on something with 150,000+miles, the threads come out still on the sensor--not good. i'll take my ford 'big' spark plug rethreader and try to clean up what's left of the threads, this almost always works. twice, i've had to replace the pipe. usually all you need is one good thread for the sensor to bite into.

if it was my car, i'd weld another 'bung' onto the pipe and weld closed the old hole---it worked on my brother's car! any good muffler shop can do this too.

put a dab of never-seize on the threads of the new sensor too
 
  #12  
Old 09-03-03, 02:44 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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Have good success with just cracking loose the sensor and then spraying liberally with a good penetrant. Then tighten back and just work it back and forth. Will usually come out by hand after that.

Larry

BTW: Have found an 18mm tap(not a rethreader) at local tool store for $10, works great for saving an manifold or pipe.
 
  #13  
Old 09-03-03, 06:56 AM
Joe_F
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I usually WD40 the piss out of it and then put a combo wrench on it.

I'm a pretty strong guy so it usually comes off for me . LOL. If not, a hammer on the wrench works or just a socket with a 1/2" drive. Breaker bar if it's REALLY stuck.

Most new O2 sensors come with the antiseize installed.
 
  #14  
Old 09-03-03, 05:21 PM
mike from nj
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you can spray it with wd-40 for three years, it won't do anything until you crack it loose and it gets past the seal and down to the threads.
 
  #15  
Old 09-03-03, 05:43 PM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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The "good" penetrant I was refering to is not WD-40.

WD is good for cleaning tar or getting residue left from sticky labels etc

Have had go success with Lawson rust penetrant


Larry
 
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