1990 Chevy Lumina Engine cuts out then stalls

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  #1  
Old 09-02-03, 06:48 PM
chevygirl
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1990 Chevy Lumina Engine cuts out then stalls

Hi. I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1, v6 auto. Recently, it started missing, then cutting out, and eventually stalling completely. It's getting plenty of fuel to the intake, and spark plugs are all firing. I'm not sure where to go from here. Also, I replaced the fuel pump relay, but it didn't help. Car runs fine when it is cold, but after 20 or 30 minutes, it cuts out and dies, even on the highway. Also, after it stalls, when I crank it, it leaks fuel into the exhaust like it's flooding. Could this have anything to do with the fuel pump regualator. All replies are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
 
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  #2  
Old 09-03-03, 03:58 AM
Joe_F
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Check your regulated fuel pressure with a gauge. Rent one from Autozone.

Pull off the fuel pressure regulator hose. If there is fuel in it, the regulator is wasted.

When's the last time it saw a tuneup? Any codes in the computer?
 
  #3  
Old 09-03-03, 05:21 AM
chevygirl
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It hasn't been tuned up for awhile, just basics, oil change, fluids. It has 210,000 on it so I can't complain too much. Just a bad time for it to break down. I'll check the regulator hose. I need to check the diagnostics, too. If you would happen to know where it's located, I would appreciate a reply.

Thanks a lot.
 
  #4  
Old 09-03-03, 06:53 AM
Joe_F
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Check autolibrary.org below for some help on where things are located, how to check, etc.
 
  #5  
Old 09-03-03, 06:21 PM
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When this happens, you don't happen to smell a foul odor from the exhaust pipe do you? It sounds like MAYBE the catylitic converter is stopping up.
Based on your info that there is spark at the plugs once it's died, and that there is plenty of fuel at the fuel rail (after it's died and won't start..) there has to be something else..You've got fire, fuel, air, and need exhaust..So, to me the next logical step..

You did mean you have spark at the spark plugs once it's died and won't start???
 
  #6  
Old 09-03-03, 07:06 PM
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I have seen a throttle position sensor cause this. Is your check engine light on? If you have access to a scan tool you might want to check the voltage that the TPS is putting out. If it is too low then this could be the problem.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
 
  #7  
Old 09-04-03, 09:26 AM
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If you're pretty confident it's raw fuel in the exhaust while you are cranking the engine in a failed state, if my memory serves me correctly, the ecm's on those things had a bad habit of keeping the injectors wide open at times. If you can get your hands on a node tester, a light that plugs into an injector connector, see how that behaves when it is failed. If it is on solid and bright, the ecm needs replacement. If it is blinking, then this is not what I am talking about. It is possible to get at one of the injector connectors on that engine with out disassembling anything.
 
  #8  
Old 09-04-03, 04:48 PM
chevygirl
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Ok. I couldn't get a node tester or a fuel pressure guage. I tried Autozone and Advance, neither would rent it. I can say that when I stick a sharp object in the valve outside the intake, it squirts up to the hood, so it definitely is getting fuel. Again, it smells as if it's flooding, but the fuel pump kicks on and off fine. I don't know if it helps, but when I take the 20amp fuse out that is with the ecm, the car starts and runs for a little bit, but very rough. The computer is not showing any codes, although the check engine light did come on right before it quit. It's showing 12's (normal). We replaced the ecm. I was wandering if I would have to unhook the battery cable and hook it up again, if it was the ecm, or if it would pick up the replacement automatically. I appreciate all your replies. If by chance I do figure out what it is, I'll be sure to let you know. Until then, all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
  #9  
Old 09-04-03, 06:04 PM
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if you would of followed a manual or instructions with the ecm it would of likely had you disconnect the battery before replacing the ecm but having the connectors unplugged from the ecm basicly does the same thing so no you do not have to disconnect the battery again, you did take the memcal or prom out of the old one and put in the new one right?
 
  #10  
Old 09-04-03, 06:34 PM
chevygirl
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hmm, don't think so. I'm talking about the fuel pump relay. It says ecm on the top of it, so that's what I called it. There's a 20 amp fuse in the same casing where it plugs in. If I need to do something else, I would appreciate it if you could explain further.

Thanks!
 
  #11  
Old 09-04-03, 08:42 PM
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ok i was under the impression you had replaced the ecm.
if the car runs when it is cold you could start it up and try tapping lightly on the ecm to see if the car dies or stumbles which would indicate a bad ecm, the ecm if i remeber correctly is on the passenger side fender well may require removal of the overflow bottle or plastic shield that runs along the fender to get access to it if its not located here it would be under the dash somewhere on the passenger side.
did you remove the vacum line from the fuel pressure regulator and see if it had gas in it as joe suggested? the regulator sits under the intake on the fuel rail but you can still get to the vacum line to unplug it to see if any fuel runs out of it, also might be careful when handling the hard plastic vacum line as they tend to break easily and is also teed into the vacum line going under the intake to the map sensor so only remove the line off the regulator enough to see if any gas is running out of it.
 
  #12  
Old 09-05-03, 06:07 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs down

That's not the proper way to check fuel pressure. Rent or buy the proper gauge for the repair. Squirting tells you squat. You want good pressure and volume.

Also STOP! Don't change parts. You'll easiliy spend more than this vehicle could ever be worth. You must TEST parts before damning them as bad.

ECM's rarely go bad and usually they are spiked by something or there are bad grounds instead.

Stick with TESTING, and you'll find the problem.
 
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