Did I Just Kill My Tranny
#1
Did I Just Kill My Tranny
year and make 89 voyager
engine 2.5 turbo
While driving today it felt like there was a block of wood under my gas peddle, but when in park it would go to the floor. After I got where I was going I shut the engine off and put it into drive and while holding brake put the gas peddle to the floor. It was fine until I tried to put in park the indicator said park but it was in reverse.
After my appointment went home and tried to adjust the shift linkage and found out that the lever above it on the tranny (the manual throttle lever) was jammed. After diconecting its cable checked again the lever will move but takes good amount of force(by hand) and will not return on its own.
I am out on dissabilty so junking it is not an optionand neither is replacing the tranny. So that said where do i start and is this something that can be done with tranny in car or will i need to pull it
engine 2.5 turbo
While driving today it felt like there was a block of wood under my gas peddle, but when in park it would go to the floor. After I got where I was going I shut the engine off and put it into drive and while holding brake put the gas peddle to the floor. It was fine until I tried to put in park the indicator said park but it was in reverse.
After my appointment went home and tried to adjust the shift linkage and found out that the lever above it on the tranny (the manual throttle lever) was jammed. After diconecting its cable checked again the lever will move but takes good amount of force(by hand) and will not return on its own.
I am out on dissabilty so junking it is not an optionand neither is replacing the tranny. So that said where do i start and is this something that can be done with tranny in car or will i need to pull it
#2
did i just kill my tranny?
probably not, but if you did, it wouldn't matter, you said replacing it is not an option.
if you try to floor the gas, does it shift the trans into nuetral or reverse by itself
sounds like the rust finally took over, the rust holding the throttle pressure shaft 'inside' the manual gear(shifter)shaft, both of which you had your hand on while playing with the shifter linkage.
what i do to fix this is take the pan off, then take out the valve body(7bolts only--no check balls or gaskets, it's not a chevy) take out the clip holding those two shafts together, sand down or wire wheel the rust off and reassemble it--- a permanent repair and definitely do it yourselfable regardless of what people say.
if you're interested in going inside your trans, write back, i'll walk you through it and all you'll need is some fluid, a filter, parts cleaner and silicone, you will be taking a trans fluid shower doing this job though and will take a few hours to accomplish, but it will be fixed for good.
let me know
ps. do not drive with the throttle shaft unhooked, then you will have no option but to rebuild your trans!!!
probably not, but if you did, it wouldn't matter, you said replacing it is not an option.
if you try to floor the gas, does it shift the trans into nuetral or reverse by itself
sounds like the rust finally took over, the rust holding the throttle pressure shaft 'inside' the manual gear(shifter)shaft, both of which you had your hand on while playing with the shifter linkage.
what i do to fix this is take the pan off, then take out the valve body(7bolts only--no check balls or gaskets, it's not a chevy) take out the clip holding those two shafts together, sand down or wire wheel the rust off and reassemble it--- a permanent repair and definitely do it yourselfable regardless of what people say.
if you're interested in going inside your trans, write back, i'll walk you through it and all you'll need is some fluid, a filter, parts cleaner and silicone, you will be taking a trans fluid shower doing this job though and will take a few hours to accomplish, but it will be fixed for good.
let me know
ps. do not drive with the throttle shaft unhooked, then you will have no option but to rebuild your trans!!!
#3
so far it sounds like a good posibilty but what makes me wonder is the lever will move from stop to stop however not on its own is there a spring in the assembly or just the 2 on the cable?
also i might add that i normally work in a garage but we farm out our tranny work so outside of r&r or filter service and some adjustments i am proceeding with only a rough idea so any help is appreciated
also i might add that i normally work in a garage but we farm out our tranny work so outside of r&r or filter service and some adjustments i am proceeding with only a rough idea so any help is appreciated
#4
the inner shaft pushes directly on the throttle pressure valve inside the valve body, which has a weak spring behind it, this spring should be enough to return the lever back to idle always!
all these parts are outside the valve body, but it (the valve body)must come down to take the two shafts apart.
if you're as lazy as me, you can take the shift linkage off the top of the trans, take out the small clip, take out the small rubber seal and spray rust penetrant between the shafts and work it back and forth and hope real hard it frees up, the rusty part is always right up at the top. this is usually a temporary repair though, you really need to wire wheel the rust out of it to make it last.
get an estimate from your tranny shop, see how much they would charge 'you' to fix this small (for them) problem, it might be cheap due to the amount of work you throw them.
or you could do it yourself and learn something at the same time.
your choice
all these parts are outside the valve body, but it (the valve body)must come down to take the two shafts apart.
if you're as lazy as me, you can take the shift linkage off the top of the trans, take out the small clip, take out the small rubber seal and spray rust penetrant between the shafts and work it back and forth and hope real hard it frees up, the rusty part is always right up at the top. this is usually a temporary repair though, you really need to wire wheel the rust out of it to make it last.
get an estimate from your tranny shop, see how much they would charge 'you' to fix this small (for them) problem, it might be cheap due to the amount of work you throw them.
or you could do it yourself and learn something at the same time.
your choice
#6
Mike has given you some good advice.
Think about it this way. The tranny is "Lunched" now anyhow. You lose nothing. Worst case scenario you need a rebuild.
If you have the time, space and tools to kill, give it a go. If things don't work, then you can get it repaired.
Think about it this way. The tranny is "Lunched" now anyhow. You lose nothing. Worst case scenario you need a rebuild.
If you have the time, space and tools to kill, give it a go. If things don't work, then you can get it repaired.
#7
found the problem it was close to what was suspect. The shaft that comes from the shift cable to the valve body (not the manual throttle lever) is bent. How I dont know but it is bad enough that you dont need a strait edge.
So after calling the dealer and som local trany wholesale parts houses i found 30 from dealer 20 from wholesaler and junk yard for free so guess what i get to do....
at least its in my budget and i have the time so am going to go with the bone yard for short term till the dealer gets it in(one weak)
next question while it is open i want to adjust the low reverse band but dont have air available to measure the band wear is ther any other way besides 30 psi in the low reverse presure port?
and if anyone does or does not i wanted to take the time to thank all who replied as any time i get in a jam you guys are right on the ball joe_f if you ever try to relocate to buffalo my boss says he will hire ya sight unseen as he also reads your posts
So after calling the dealer and som local trany wholesale parts houses i found 30 from dealer 20 from wholesaler and junk yard for free so guess what i get to do....
at least its in my budget and i have the time so am going to go with the bone yard for short term till the dealer gets it in(one weak)
next question while it is open i want to adjust the low reverse band but dont have air available to measure the band wear is ther any other way besides 30 psi in the low reverse presure port?
and if anyone does or does not i wanted to take the time to thank all who replied as any time i get in a jam you guys are right on the ball joe_f if you ever try to relocate to buffalo my boss says he will hire ya sight unseen as he also reads your posts
#8
My two snowblowers will get a good workout, that's for sure!
I think I'll stick with the NYC suburbs, thanks a bunch. What did he like about the posts? You have more than just myself here in on the forum.
You have a vast array of professionals here that make this place what it is.
Alas, "management" and I do not agree on a lot of things, so those of us who contribute alot here may find our place elsewhere due to frustration.
If you truly like what I or others do here, how about telling "management" (Tom Bartco or the Forum Admins)?
I think they need a good dose of reality.
I think I'll stick with the NYC suburbs, thanks a bunch. What did he like about the posts? You have more than just myself here in on the forum.
You have a vast array of professionals here that make this place what it is.
Alas, "management" and I do not agree on a lot of things, so those of us who contribute alot here may find our place elsewhere due to frustration.
If you truly like what I or others do here, how about telling "management" (Tom Bartco or the Forum Admins)?
I think they need a good dose of reality.
#9
every band that i've adjusted was with a torque wrench and turning it back the appropriate turns---only!
never heard or seen any one using compressed air to measure wear. i only use air to pressure check clutch circuits with the valve body out--looking for a blown seal
you could use a portable air tank(old freon tank) and fill it at any shop. they usually hold enough air for a minute's worth of work or two small tires(or at least enough to cut a padlock with a cut-off wheel
never heard or seen any one using compressed air to measure wear. i only use air to pressure check clutch circuits with the valve body out--looking for a blown seal
you could use a portable air tank(old freon tank) and fill it at any shop. they usually hold enough air for a minute's worth of work or two small tires(or at least enough to cut a padlock with a cut-off wheel
#10
the reason for the air is when you put 30 psi into thelow/reverse plug on the outside of the tranny you then measure the gap on the band(spec is .08 inch if memory is right the book is in my garage) if it is beyond the specs it needs replacement and yes it is impossible to adjust a band without a torque wrench(one ft lbs and one inch lbs)
and i stand corrected with joe_f's reply there is a lot who make this what it is but what was that about admin ?
and i stand corrected with joe_f's reply there is a lot who make this what it is but what was that about admin ?
#11
i'll have to try that next time, it sounds interesting, i'll compare new vs. old to see what the difference is.
i learned something again!
ps. when i use air, i use full shop pressure---150+psi, the circuit is designed to operate close to 200+psi, especially reverse and double especially a turbo trans(much higher pressures in that one)
for your second question: there has been a lot of hot air going around in here, not worth worrying about and way too long to explain.
gratitude is graciously accepted in all walks of life, not everyone appreciates it though
i learned something again!
ps. when i use air, i use full shop pressure---150+psi, the circuit is designed to operate close to 200+psi, especially reverse and double especially a turbo trans(much higher pressures in that one)
for your second question: there has been a lot of hot air going around in here, not worth worrying about and way too long to explain.
gratitude is graciously accepted in all walks of life, not everyone appreciates it though