Spark Plug Wires

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-11-03, 08:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 130
Spark Plug Wires

I recently purchased a '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.2L engine and 112,000 miles. Before going too far, I thought I would do some basic maintenance on it (oil change, plugs, cap & rotor, coolant, transmission oil). When I went to pull the boot and wire off the first plug, it would not come off. I twisted and turned and thirty minutes and scrapped up hand later, I quit. I have changed many plugs, but I have never run into one like this - any tricks to this car? Any other maintenance advice at this point (car seems to be running fine)?

Thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-11-03, 09:48 PM
mike from nj
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
something that stuck needs to be twisted until it pops, then pulled off, if you already have the new wires, do whatever you have to to get it off---pliers works!

yesterday i had a car with a dead cylinder(same v8), the customer just tuned it up himself, he bought cheap wires from somewhere and they were each about a foot longer than original, all that extra wire has to go somewhere and it eventually found it's way onto the exhaust, even though they were clipped into the retainers. as i was taking the rest of the wires off, half of them broke--the metal clips stayed on the spark plugs---what a bargain, not even a name on them, they were that proud of them when they made them!
the point of this story is to buy good wires and they will easily last another 100,000+miles, these things didn't even have 2000 miles on them, if i remember correctly, the (good)wires were about $40 over the counter (list price in a dealer)

i hope you're using chrysler's trans fluid for that trans, anything else can cause problems with shifting and particularly a shudder when the torque converter locks up, it aint cheap either, between 3-4 dollars a quart, you'll need 6 to do the job.

you should be changing all the fluids, front and rear differentials and the transfer case too.

this thing is pretty reliable as long as you take care of it, sometimes the intake manifold leaks, all that happens is the engine will burn oil and ping pretty bad(it leaks internally) thermostat gasket is known to seep a little too, it's easier than it looks to replace, let me know if you're interested in doing that.

all 4 tires should be the same brand and relatively same size(tire wear) replacing two only will lead to quick destrucion of the transfer case.

have fun getting the dist. cap out, that's why i say buy good stuff and only do it once.

ask away on your questions, plenty of good people on here
 
  #3  
Old 09-12-03, 03:48 AM
Joe_F
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Follow Mike's advice, it is right on.

Pick up a shop manual for the vehicle so you can be guided in all repairs. Ebay and swapmeets work good for this purchase.

Use only good quality stuff and leave the bargain stuff behind. The bargain stuff (If you can call it that) makes you do the job twice, which hardly makes it a bargain .

Use the maintenance schedule in the glovebox to guide you as to when to do what.
 
  #4  
Old 09-14-03, 09:05 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 130
Mike & Joe F.,

Thanks for the advice. Regarding the auto transmission fluid, I had picked up a Haynes manual at my parts store and it said to use a Mopar OR Dexron / Mercon III and I went with the cheaper Mercon. The car seems to vibrate when stopped in Drive, but runs fine otherwise - could this be because of the transmission fluid?

Also, you mentioned the distributor cap. I finally found it, but how do I get to it? I was also thinks of dumping the air cleaner box and picking up an after market intake pipe - any recommendations on that.

Thanks again for your help.
 
  #5  
Old 09-14-03, 09:25 PM
mike from nj
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
i highly doubt the vibration is from the fluid, but i've been wrong before. i just can't see how it's related though, probably something related with you tugging on wires and stuff

to cover my rearend, i only use what's stamped on the dipstick, type 7176=ATF+3

i think those air snorkels are expensive, to only make a little more noise! my two friends bought 'mopar performance' intake manifolds and did notice an improvement in power(on a dakota r/t), plus the gasket will never leak as there is none now(the notorious leaker one)

unbolt the cap and slide it out sideways, 9/32" or 7mm are the bolts, maybe a few wires might need to come off.
 
  #6  
Old 09-15-03, 06:52 AM
Joe_F
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Stay away from those "performance" things, they do nothing much but drain your wallet. You won't really notice much on that machine. Get it running right first!

Never trust a Haynes or Chilton book. Throw it out---useless for any halfway serious repair. Only use the OEM service manual, the ONLY book to use when servicing a car. Well worth the bucks.

Make sure you only use the approved fluid or you can wipe out the tranny as tranny fluid types differ. Dexron fluid has qualities that Chrysler trannies may not like .
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes