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Power Window Switch


conscience4u2's Avatar
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09-13-03, 10:27 PM   #1  
conscience4u2
Power Window Switch

Hey Guys I'm back again,
My 88 Celica has power windows and door locks. Recently my youngest daughter rolled the passengers side window down (really nice outside that day and didn't need the air) and it wouldn't come back up when we got home. I tried to roll it up from the drivers side master switch and it wouldn't come back up. So, I pulled the passengers side door panel off to check and saw nothing unusual. The plugs were all connected securely and saw no loose wires. I kept bumping the passengers side window switch, (pushing it to roll the window back up and then to the regular/not in use position) and after a minute or two I was able to get the window back up again.
Why couldn't I get the window back up by using the drivers side master switch ? Do I need to replace just the passengers side window switch or the switch and motor as well ? Do I also need to do something with the drivers side window switch and or motor since it will work the drivers side window just fine but not the passengers side window ? Thanks for the help. 4u2

 
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09-14-03, 04:56 AM   #2  
The drivers and pass windows switches are a series circuit. Meaning each switch when not in use is still part of the circuit.

If while you were "bumping" the pass switch and not touching or moving anything else(like the drivers door) you could have a bad pass sw. You could also have a bad wire from the pass door to the body, not likely, more common on the drivers door( cause it opens and closes more)

BTW the window lock wasn't on?


Larry

 
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09-14-03, 06:01 AM   #3  
I would remove the door panel and operate the window until it fails again.Then take a test light and check for power and ground at the motor while operating the switch.If the test light illuminates you need a motor.Sometimes you can tap on the motor and get it to run again,if so it's the motor.I have also seen window motors that sat idle too long do this and operating them several times may eliminate the problem.If these steps don't help you have a wiring/switch problem as Larry said.I'm sure the toyotaman sees more Celicas than me.

 
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09-14-03, 06:52 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Both posters are correct.

Sometimes the motor gets a high spot in it from age. By rapping on the motor you move it past that high spot and walah, it works again . If so, bad motor in most cases.

Larry gave you excellent advise as well.....

 
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09-14-03, 08:11 AM   #5  
conscience4u2
You guys are THE BEST !!

toyotaman Larry,
Thanks for the explanation, now I know how things work a little better. And, to answer the question, no, the lock wasn't on. When I first started to check it, I thought to myself, "Now, I need to make sure I don't do something REALLY stupid and leave the lock on !"

davo,
Thanks for telling me how to check it. I'll follow your directions and see what I come up with.

Joe_F,
Thanks for the info and what to try. I'll do that and see how I come out.

I'll make sure to let you guys know what happens ! Thanks again, like I said before, you guys ARE THE BEST !! 4u2

 
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09-14-03, 09:25 AM   #6  
Just to clarify the red and green wire going to the motor are power and ground. They alternate to change the direction of the motor.

Attach the probe of the test light to one wire and use a small screwdriver or paper clip on the ground wire to probe the other wire. It should light in both directions. You can back probe these.

Tell us what you find

Larry

 
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09-14-03, 11:43 AM   #7  
Joe_F
If my 32-year old memory serves me right, you were the lady (I think???) with the A/C problem in this same car?

Was that rectified?

 
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09-16-03, 02:46 PM   #8  
conscience4u2
Toyotaman Larry,
Thanks for the extra directions, I'm sure it'll make things much easier for me. And, you bet, I'll make sure to let you guys know.

Joe_F,
Yes Sir, that would be me. Definitely female, not too sure about the lady part, LOL ! Seems to me I do WAY too much "man stuff" to be a lady, might be wrong though ! Yes it's the same car, I'm slowly-but-surely TRYING to fix all the minor (should I really say minor ? ) problems that are wrong with Myrtle. Guess you guys will be hearing a lot from me,, Sorry.
And no, the AC problem is still the same on Myrtle. My EX said he wasn't messing with it, least not till he knew where everything was, and I can't afford to pay anyone else to fix it. Her air still blows so cold it will freeze you out of it, WHEN it's working. Had all the coolant levels checked again, not by my EX, and she was VERY SLIGHTLY LOW. So, I don't really think that was the problem. I'm STILL open for suggestions and would appreciate any and all help with this. So, thanks again guys ! I love you all ! 4u2

 
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09-17-03, 07:57 AM   #9  
Joe_F
Most maintenance on Toyotas is straightforward and easy. It's the diagnostics and odd repairs that can be tough. The A/C will be one of them.

I would suggest getting it to someone competent on the A/C system because it will cost you more to guess and if you've checked the basics that Larry gave you, it's likely a little more in depth and requires some time and someone with knowledge to go through it. Without seeing the vehicle or taking a look at it, it's hard to make a real educated guess about it. It could be a stuck orifice screen among other things, tough to say since the repairs to the system seem spotty.

I still can't understand why an HVAC man can't handle this. Sounds like he just doesn't want to. A/C systems are basically the same if you have the basic theory down pat, and being an HVAC man for homes, I wouldn't think a car system could lick a guy like that. Just my .02

Unfortunately as these Toyotas age all the annoyances come out and that is what you are seeing. One reason I don't own a Toyota----at least on an American car when the things go wrong, the parts are cheap. Repairs are usually the same on either Japanese or American as far as severity/difficulty go though. It evens out.

 
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09-17-03, 11:20 PM   #10  
conscience4u2
Joe_F,
Thanks for the 0.2 ! You are probably right on the AC. FYI, I haven't been able to check the things toyotaman suggested, the ex "said" he didn't know where most of those things were, and until he did , he wasn't touching it. I agree, he SHOULD be able to handle this just fine, he does make his living that way. But you have to WANT to do something to be able to do it, and he obviously doesn't. Guess I'll just have to do without AC until I can save the $200.00 that it's supposed to cost me to have it checked out. Guess it's a good thing that the weather is cooling off a little around here !

As far as repairs go on Myrtle, there haven't been many over the years we've had her. Been lucky, huh ! She's got almost 200,000 miles on her now, and she still has more get-up-and-go than I need most of the time, but good to know it's there IF I need it. Just recently I had to have a new clutch put in and a clutch master cylinder, but that's it except for a power steering pump a few months back.

Now, back to the power window switch. I got the door panel off like I said and when I started to go through the list of things you guys suggested, I saw that there was no way for me to get to the motor to be able to check it. The window motor is in between the outside metal part of the door and the inside metal part of the door. No place big enough for me to see it well, much less be able to tap on it or test it. So, now what ? Do I take the window motor off of the door ? I've been told not to take it off because it'll mess the window up and it working right. Let me know guys, where do I go from here ? Thanks again. 4u2

 
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09-18-03, 03:14 AM   #11  
The plug with the red and green wires should be visable with the door panel off.

As far as taping the motor you can do that without taking the door panel off. Bang on the door panel with a rubber mallet or your hand. Another way is to activate the window switch while you close the door.

Larry

 
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09-18-03, 06:53 AM   #12  
Joe_F
I agree. Banging on the door hurts my fist, so I use the rubber mallet trick. LOL

 
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09-18-03, 09:35 AM   #13  
conscience4u2
You guys are really something else, and you help to make my day.

Toyotaman,
Nothing is visable on the motor with the door panel off except for just the very outside edge of the round part of the motor. I can see where the motor is bolted to the door, in between the two pieces of metal, but you can not see the motor it self. I can pull the part of the wires where they plug into the motor out through a small hole and unplug it, is that what you mean ? I'll try to work the switch as I close the door and let you know about that.
Thanks guys !! 4u2

 
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09-18-03, 11:29 AM   #14  
Joe_F
Yes, that should be what Larry is getting at.

 
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09-18-03, 11:20 PM   #15  
conscience4u2
Great, just wanted to make sure.
Checked the wires with the tester and it worked both ways.
So, I put another switch on it that I knew was bad and rolled it down again, hoping it would stick again, and it did. Checked the wires again in the plug while I was trying to operate the window, the test light lit up both ways but the window didn't go up. Tried to put it up with the drivers side control, wouldn't move it. Why won't the drivers side control operate the window, when the passengers side won't ?
Knocked on the motor, nothing. Put my switch back in, rolled back up fine. Rolled it up and down several times, went up and down fine. Operated the switch while I was closing the door, went up and down fine. Could it be that there's a ground wire under the dash or someplace else that's loose causing the problem ? I know just as soon as I put the door panel back together and everything back on, the dog gone thing will quit again !!
Thanks guys. 4u2

 
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09-19-03, 03:06 AM   #16  
If you back probe the two wires(That means probing the connector while it is together in a live circuit) and it lights in both directions and the window dosen't move you have a bad motor.

Larry

 
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09-19-03, 05:47 AM   #17  
Joe_F
I'd agree with that. You can get replacement motors at any auto parts store (rebuilt), or from a Toyota dealer.

The latter is recommended.

 
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09-19-03, 12:54 PM   #18  
conscience4u2
Toyotaman Larry,
Thanks so much for making this as simple as you could, that made everything the easiest to understand !
Exactly what I needed !
Yes, the test light lit AND the window worked, guess my motor is good then. Yea for me !
Super help guys !!
Now, replace the switch or do you think it was just that the motor had a high spot in it and now that I've worked the window a good bit while I was testing it, that it will work ok ?
I'd really HATE to put the door all back together and then have it mess up again !
Why wouldn't the master switch work the window when the passengers switch messed up ?
Could there still be a loose wire I'll need to find ?
Maybe I'm just looking a gift horse in the mouth and should just accept that the window works fine now.
Anyway, thanks again guys, you saved the day !! 4u2

 
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09-19-03, 01:32 PM   #19  
Your confusing me!

You have to back probe the wires when the window dosen't work!

Then depending on the results, only then can you determine were the problem lies.



Larry

 
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09-21-03, 01:05 AM   #20  
conscience4u2
toyotaman,
SOOO sorry about that. Some of what I intended to write didn't show up after I tried to post back and had to log in again. Sometimes my mind works a lot faster than my fingers can type it. What I meant to say was, I tested it like you said to when it was stuck. Test light didn't light till I changed the switch. Sorry again for the confusion, I'll try to do better. 4u2

 
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09-21-03, 02:07 AM   #21  
Thats great, you found the problem. Good job.......order of problem area on Toyota windows is broken wires, bad switch and then a motor.

Larry

 
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09-21-03, 05:07 AM   #22  
Joe_F
Kudos to Larry for all the great information .

 
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