1995 Isuzu Rodeo won't start


Old 09-16-03, 02:25 PM
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1995 Isuzu Rodeo won't start

I am hoping someone can help. I have a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo with 157,000 miles on it. It is a standard transmission. It will not start. The radio, wipers, lights work but when I turn the key, there is just a click. I believe it could be the starter? This is a second car. It is a V6 engine, 4wd.
Any ideas?, sorry, some additional info. It started a week ago and on that same day passed the Mass emissions test....
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Old 09-16-03, 04:45 PM
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 93

Try to jump the vehicle be sure to connect the proper polarities on the vehicle i.e. + to + , - to - , if not you will ruin all the electrical system of both vehilcle. If it starts you foind your problem, it could be the battery or the alternator. I hope this helps. Keep me posted.

Old 09-16-03, 09:39 PM
mike from nj
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first thing is to push start the vehicle and make sure the engine is ok, 3rd gear works good for this, unless you've done this before, get some help with this one.

second, do you have a voltmeter (or at least a testlight)?

jack the car up and support it under the frame behind the driver's front tire and pull back the splash shield behind the tire, you should see both starter terminals(the tire needs to 'hang' to get to the shield)

(for this test, cranking=attempting to start, or turning the key)

1. when someone is cranking it, you should see voltage appear on the SMALL terminal(small wire)

2. put the voltmeter 'negative' (or ground clip) on the starter case and the 'positive' (or test light probe)on the LARGE terminal and attempt to crank, it should be 12 volts (or light 'bright')when NOT attempting to start, and also the same when attempting to crank. meaning it should always have voltage available, it should not dissappear---a dissappearing voltage would indicate you have a voltage drop in the wiring.

3. get a piece of pipe or a small baseball bat and hit the starter case while someone is cranking it, don't break the wire terminals doing this! it might start, maybe not, it might spark, it might smoke pretty good too, or it will just growl like a mad dog. either way, the above tests confirmed it was bad anyway, so you might as well get some satisfaction before you see how much a starter costs and how hard it will be to get out, as many GM parts as there are on this thing, the starter is a nipponden$o, i think

on a 4wd, the exhaust must be dropped, not all of it, just the little piece up front, the manifold bolts are 14mm and usually come right out, the other bolts aren't so easy, but at least they're easy to get a torch on and cut out. then it's just two more 14mm bolts and it will fall out.

price starters out and remember how much trouble you had removing the exhaust, then consider a lifetime replacemant warranty on a $100 starter doesn't reimburse labor, how many times do you want to do this? where do you want to be when it breaks again? a quality rebuilt part costs money.

most starters go bad from the valve covers leaking oil, the leaks usually take out the oxygen sensor too, keep an eye on that too.

let us know if you need a better description or more help
Old 09-17-03, 05:49 AM
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Thank you both so much. I'll give it a try!
Old 09-17-03, 07:37 AM
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Also, have a look at my "The Basics" below as well as the great advice you got here.

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