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Shimmy when braking


fishkat's Avatar
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09-24-03, 04:12 PM   #1  
Shimmy when braking

'95 Toyota Camry

Had brake work done last week, replaced pads (ceramic) and true rotors. Now I've got a substantial shimmy when braking, boardering on violent when braking hard above 40 mph. No shimmy unless braking. Am bringing it back in a day or two, but wanted to know if anyone might be able to give me a clue as to what the problem might be before returning. Thanks for any insight-

 
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davo's Avatar
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09-24-03, 04:15 PM   #2  
I would think the lug nuts were overtightened warping the rotors or some rust/debris is trapped between the rotor and hub bearing.

 
billys68ss's Avatar
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09-24-03, 05:35 PM   #3  
Or the rotors were not turned true in the first place. That happens way too often. Proper setup on a brake lathe is essential to a good straight cut rotor.
Billy

 
mike from nj's Avatar
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09-24-03, 11:23 PM   #4  
mike from nj
i am looking into my crystal ball----and i see new rotors in your future!!


once they warp, cutting them again (trueing them)is only temporary repair. you might agree to (or insist on) paying for the new rotors, but no more labor. they should have been found 'bad' on the road test and replaced then, or measured for minimum thickness and replaced after cutting them the first time. i've eaten the labor before, but the cust always pays for the rotors---cutting them isn't a perfect science.

 
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09-25-03, 06:41 AM   #5  
Joe_F
I agree. Throw out the rotors. Once they warp (and they will, matter of time with most hubless rotors), they are generally finished for good.

New American or Canadian made rotors (avoid the offshore stuff, it's junk) are the only way to go. Not expensive.

Likely warped rotors as others have suggested.

 
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09-25-03, 07:36 AM   #6  
THE OTHER POSSABILITY IS THAT THE TECH DESTROYED THE DRUMS IN THE REAR IN THE EVENT HE REMOVED THEM TO INSPECT THE REAR BRAKES. THE TELLTALE WOULD BE IF THE SHUDDER IS IN THE STEERING WHEEL OR NOT.
IF THE SHUDDER IS FELT THROUGH OUT THE VEHICLE, ESPECIALLY LIGHT DEPRESSION OF THE PEDAL, AND ALSO AT HIGHER SPEEDS, SUCH AS A DECELERATION RAMP ON THE HIGHWAY, I'D BE MORE INCLINED TO THINK THE DRUMS ARE OUT OF ROUND. THIS OCCURS WHEN OVER ZEALOUS TECHNICIANS WITH BIG HAMMERS TRY TO UNSTICK A DRUM OFF A HUB....
HOWEVER IF THE SHUDDER IS IN THE STEERINGWHEEL, THE ROTORS ARE FAILED.

 
fishkat's Avatar
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09-25-03, 09:49 AM   #7  
Thanks for all the info. One last point/question..... The car had absolutely no shimmy prior to the work being done, which leads me to believe that the rotors were fine until messed with. Is this a fair assumption. If that's the case, then I feel I shouldn't be responsible for paying for new rotors. I'm just bummed that things were good before the work was done, now they're not.....

 
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09-25-03, 09:53 AM   #8  
Joe_F
The rotors were assumed to probably need cutting and were cut. They were probably done wrong and now you have the shimmy.

Does the bill state the rotors were cut?

 
fishkat's Avatar
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09-25-03, 10:30 AM   #9  
Nope. No mention that the rotors were cut......

 
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09-25-03, 11:03 AM   #10  
darrell McCoy
You should be able to eyeball the finish on the rotors and tell if they have been resurfaced. No problem before? Then back to the guy that did brake job. If they were not refinished then as previuosly stated, maybe over/uneven tightened wheels. Myself, I dont go for the ceramics on an everyday used pass car or P/U truck.

 
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09-25-03, 11:16 AM   #11  
Joe_F
I agree. Stock replacement brakes are fine for the vehicle and give the best blend blend of stopping, noise, pedal feel and dust (lack of it).

 
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