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Smoke from pipe


goindimon's Avatar
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10-01-03, 11:43 AM   #1  
Smoke from pipe

Help, I have an Isuzu Rodeo 1992 105k miles. I seemed to have developed a burning of some sort under the engine after driving for a while. It looks like it is coming from the short pipe before the catalytic converter. It looks like it is smoking where it joins a smaller pipe which leads to the engine block. What might this be and would would the cost to fix it. Could it also be an oil leak of wome sort?

 
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10-01-03, 12:13 PM   #2  
Joe_F
What does the smoke smell like and what color is the smoke?

Any fluid loss?

 
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10-01-03, 06:30 PM   #3  
mike from nj
what's under the hood---engine size?

 
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10-01-03, 06:55 PM   #4  
darrell McCoy
crawl under and look, you might have a bad leaking valve cover gasket or something else dripping on it.

 
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10-06-03, 05:47 AM   #5  
Joe,

I believe the smoke was white and it was a burning like smell. As far as fluid loss, I checked the oil level and it looked good and clean.


Mike from NJ,

It is a 3.1 liter V6.


darrell McCoy,

I check and see if I see anything. I do remember a spot on the driveway, but I don't know what the liquid was, I'll have to check for it again.

 
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10-06-03, 06:47 AM   #6  
Joe_F
Does it smell sweet like syrup? Does the smoke tend to hang in the air? If so, that would be coolant burning.

Level the radiator reservoir going down.

 
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10-06-03, 05:57 PM   #7  
mike from nj
your engine is all chevrolet, which translates into 'oil leaks'

it can be anything from the (cork)valve covers, intake manifold, front crank seal, rear main, and oil sender unit---all common sources of oil leaks on this.

the biggest oil leak i've found commonly is the distributor o-ring, it has full oil galley oil pressure right under it and when the o-ring gets dry and brittle, it leaks a LOT of oil down the back of the block(and onto the exhaust).

get it safely onto ramps, get a bright light and look for the highest point of the leak, oil usually leaks down, so the highest point is usually the source.


i hope nobody locks this thread to win the argument

 
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10-07-03, 10:18 AM   #8  
mike from nj,

I will try and get the truck op on ramps this weekend and see if what you are saying is correct. Do you think I should have the o-ring replaced andway? and if so can I do this myself? By the way what part of Jersey are you in and are you a mechanic? I live in Old Bridge, and are in need of a good and honest mechanic.

 
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10-07-03, 10:33 AM   #9  
Joe_F
i hope nobody locks this thread to win the argument---

No argument here, the motor leaks oil, what's there to argue about?

your engine is all chevrolet, which translates into 'oil leaks' --

Actually, the 3.1 liter is corporate designed since it is after 1982 vintage, when GM realigned and got mostly away divisional designation as had been done in prior years.............

 
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10-07-03, 11:50 PM   #10  
mike from nj
joe---in retrospect, i shouldn't have typed that there. yesterday, this thread was right behind the locked carb one, sort of out of place now.


goindimon, let's just say i could be your neighbor, is there anyone on your block with a lot of cars in front of the house and some in the driveway too, where a huge RV used to be? wait, i just described half the township(except the rv part).

yes i do sidework, yes i can get parts slightly cheaper(from work), not as cheap as pep boys or autozone or napa. i probably could help you with the job now, in the future, i could probably do the job outright, but i'm booked solid right now, and will be for quite a while, find the leak first and we'll go from there.

notice all the isuzu dealers closing up lately, there's been a lot of rumors from a lot of people about isuzu's future in america, we'll see what happens.....


let us know about the leaks too

 
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10-08-03, 09:43 AM   #11  
Joe_F
Umm, ok .

They just call everything "corporate" now and haven't really labeled it a Chevy, Pontiac, Caddy, Olds, etc engine since probably 1981.

 
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10-19-03, 03:54 PM   #12  
CAT Smoke

Your 'cat' is probably welded to the exhaust pipe, but between the engin and the cat-converter it is bolted. There is a gasket in-between the two pipes, its called a "donut", thats what it looks like. It may only be loose so tightening the bolts might fix it.
If its not loose look for holes in the pipe, or the cat maybe be shot, and you have to get a new one.

 
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10-19-03, 04:55 PM   #13  
Re: CAT Smoke

Originally posted by peglegpiney
Your 'cat' is probably welded to the exhaust pipe, but between the engin and the cat-converter it is bolted. There is a gasket in-between the two pipes, its called a "donut", thats what it looks like. It may only be loose so tightening the bolts might fix it.
If its not loose look for holes in the pipe, or the cat maybe be shot, and you have to get a new one.
peglegpiney
I read your profile and see your not a mechanic. Your giving some pretty "off base" advice in some of your posts. You may want to rein that in a little before you cost somebody some real money. There is "no way" that is an exhaust leak he's referring to. It's something dripping onto the exhaust.

 
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10-19-03, 07:29 PM   #14  
Reply

Your right I'm not a mechanic, I will only post responses to questions of problems that I have encountered and what the result was. Thats what this board is about, possible problems and soultions, no advice is better than that of a trusted mechanic, sorry if I missled you into thinking that I had the solution to the problem, it was just a posability!

 
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10-19-03, 11:30 PM   #15  
mike from nj
desi----you've obviously never been to south jersey, jackson is on the border of north/south jersey, but a 'piney' is definitely south jersey(the pine barrens). to say they do things differently, is the understatement of today.

no offense intended, of course.

 
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10-20-03, 03:58 AM   #16  
Joe_F
Original poster:
Have you solved the problem?

 
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10-20-03, 04:01 AM   #17  
I hear ya Mike

I saw another comment from him in another thread that advised someone that rotors should ALWAYS be changed with pads. A comment like that in this state will land you on the 11 O'clock news and out of business the next day.

 
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10-20-03, 01:31 PM   #18  
You guys are funny!!
What I posted said that if the rotors are warped, they should be replaced not cut; and if hes going to replace the worn brake pads, do both sides.

 
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10-20-03, 03:41 PM   #19  
Maybe I've lost my ability to read. Here's the quote.


The best thing to do is replace them (always replace both rotors and brakes at the same time.) A bit costly but its one of those things that has to be done;


Advice like that in my state would get me on the 11 o'clock news for being a so called "rip off"
Now, unless there are extreme conditions here, the rotors are designed to be cut if above mininum thickness. That's why they have measurements and specifications. Abusive conditions are the exception to that. You have to go by the book on this stuff and your just giving bad advise. I know we've got off the subject of the original thread so I'm quitting here.

 
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10-20-03, 03:47 PM   #20  
KurtDixon
I think (I am only guessing) that he meant that if you were replacing one rotor, to replace the other side too. Just like if you were replacing brake pads, replace the other side too. Not to replace the rotors with every brake pad change as you assumed.

 
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10-20-03, 04:38 PM   #21  
Originally posted by KurtDixon
I think (I am only guessing) that he meant that if you were replacing one rotor, to replace the other side too. Just like if you were replacing brake pads, replace the other side too. Not to replace the rotors with every brake pad change as you assumed.
That would also be unnecessary parts. Wrong either way. If they measure, they're good.....period

 
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