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waterpump


Rc4b's Avatar
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10-03-03, 03:52 PM   #1  
Rc4b
waterpump

I have a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus and there is a raddling noise,like bearings wearing out, that is coming from the area where the cover to the timing belt is!I am thinking that it could be the water pump!! If so,by reading manuals I see that th water pump is behind the timing belt!!!
If this is the case could you give me tips on how to replace it?

 
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darrell McCoy's Avatar
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10-03-03, 05:17 PM   #2  
darrell McCoy
They are sort of a PITA. Check Auto Library and see what instructions it has to offer.

 
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10-04-03, 06:15 AM   #3  
Joe_F
What engine size?

 
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10-04-03, 10:14 AM   #4  
mike from nj
whether it's a 4 or 6 cylinder, it's still a big job. the 6 cyl is easier than the 4, but neither is a walk in the park. you'll need a good book to follow and almost an entire saturday or sunday or both.

 
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10-04-03, 03:02 PM   #5  
Rc4b
Originally posted by mike from nj
whether it's a 4 or 6 cylinder, it's still a big job. the 6 cyl is easier than the 4, but neither is a walk in the park. you'll need a good book to follow and almost an entire saturday or sunday or both.


Hello Mike just want to thank you for your response! From the looks of the research. It looks like it would take a good day!! but dooable.My only concern is taking off the crank shaft gear and the timeing belt pully!! Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again for your response! any suggestions welcome!!

Rc4b

 
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10-04-03, 03:09 PM   #6  
Rc4b
Originally posted by Joe_F
What engine size?
Hello Joe I am sorry! I have a 6cycl. From the research I have done.It doesn't look bad!!only time consuming! But I am still wondering if that is my problem? Its the only thing I can think of that would make that kind of noise in that area.A worn out water pump.
Is there any way I can confirm that,the water pump is the problem, before I proceed?
If it is, my concern is dealing with removing the crankshaft gear and the timing belt tensioner,as I understand it is part of getting to the water pump!!!!

Thanks again for your time!

rc4b

 
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10-04-03, 09:37 PM   #7  
mike from nj
you can take off all the belts and let the engine idle, if the noise is still there, it might be a water pump. if it's gone, the noise was driven by one of the belts.

the crank pulley comes off with your fingers when you take out the 22mm bolt---no special pullers required. that bolt has to be VERY tight when you're done too.

the tensioner for the timing belt is a 'grenade' type, you compress it slowly in a vise, put a lock pin into the special hole, put it on to the engine, make sure timing marks are lined up, then pull the pin out, it will automatically tension itself.

note: this engine is NON-freewheeling, meaning if you don't line up the timing marks exactly right or you try to turn the crankshaft with the 'timing' belt off, you run the risk of doing damage to the engine, namely bent valves, which is very bad.

also replace the o-ring behind the water pump and if close to 100,000 miles(or even 75,000+) replace the belt too!

this engine is 100% japanese, so all the bolts are 10, 12, 14, and 17mm.

 
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10-05-03, 08:21 AM   #8  
Joe_F
Mike said it well . Have a good look-see and make sure it's something you want to tackle (after narrowing it down) and have the time (important), tools and ability to handle it.

 
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10-05-03, 10:18 AM   #9  
Rc4b
Thanks!

Originally posted by mike from nj
you can take off all the belts and let the engine idle, if the noise is still there, it might be a water pump. if it's gone, the noise was driven by one of the belts.

the crank pulley comes off with your fingers when you take out the 22mm bolt---no special pullers required. that bolt has to be VERY tight when you're done too.

the tensioner for the timing belt is a 'grenade' type, you compress it slowly in a vise, put a lock pin into the special hole, put it on to the engine, make sure timing marks are lined up, then pull the pin out, it will automatically tension itself.

note: this engine is NON-freewheeling, meaning if you don't line up the timing marks exactly right or you try to turn the crankshaft with the 'timing' belt off, you run the risk of doing damage to the engine, namely bent valves, which is very bad.

also replace the o-ring behind the water pump and if close to 100,000 miles(or even 75,000+) replace the belt too!

this engine is 100% japanese, so all the bolts are 10, 12, 14, and 17mm.
Just want to thank you very much for your response!
It certainly puts me more at ease knowing about the the timing belt tensioner and the crank case gear.sounds pretty straight forward,I think I will take it on!!
From what I understand, in the Chilton Manual, the timing marks are there on the back cover of the water pump(on there some where) that I could go bye right?
Do you know?

 
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10-05-03, 04:03 PM   #10  
Joe_F
I do know I wouldn't be using a Chilton manual for that repair. Factory shop manual or Alldata.com subscription only....

Chilton tends to leave out a lot of details.

 
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10-05-03, 07:17 PM   #11  
mike from nj
yes, the marks are there. i highlight them with paint or liquid paper, line all the marks up first, before taking the belt off. that way i know how it should look when i'm done. and, you won't hurt anything if you line the marks up first and leave all the gears alone for the duration of the job. there's only three marks to worry about, two cam gear marks that are pointing straight up, and the crank sprocket one that is about the 2 o'clock position.

 
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10-06-03, 04:29 PM   #12  
Rc4b
Crankcase pull or damper bolt

Originally posted by mike from nj
yes, the marks are there. i highlight them with paint or liquid paper, line all the marks up first, before taking the belt off. that way i know how it should look when i'm done. and, you won't hurt anything if you line the marks up first and leave all the gears alone for the duration of the job. there's only three marks to worry about, two cam gear marks that are pointing straight up, and the crank sprocket one that is about the 2 o'clock position.
Hey thanks for your response!!
To line up the marks do I turn them by cranking the engine? or do
I turn it by hand?
Is the bolt that holds the damper (crankcase pully) a reverse?
do you take it off clockwise or counterclockwise?and how do you hold the pully in place while trying to loosen that bolt?

Thanks again!!

Any and all advice appreciated!!!!

 
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10-06-03, 04:54 PM   #13  
To line up the timing marks you should use a wrench or socket and turn the engine gently. To get the damper off use an impact and it should be regular thread, righty tighty lefty loosy. Once you get the timing marks set dont move the engine. Check and double check your alignment before putting the tension on the belt.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy

 
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10-06-03, 07:51 PM   #14  
mike from nj
remember, that crank bolt is probably the tightest bolt on the car, and if it isn't as tight when your done, it will eventually loosen and do a lot of damage to the crankshaft.

in the absense of air tools, you will need a huge ratchet, and probably a pipe to go on it too. then all you need to do is keep the engine from turning somehow. if possible, i always take out the torque converter inspection shield and put a big screwdriver into the teeth to jamb it against the case.


you will also need a floor jack and a block of wood to support the engine when you take out the front mount, just so you know.

 
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10-06-03, 08:53 PM   #15  
Rc4b
Thanks!!

Originally posted by billys68ss
To line up the timing marks you should use a wrench or socket and turn the engine gently. To get the damper off use an impact and it should be regular thread, righty tighty lefty loosy. Once you get the timing marks set dont move the engine. Check and double check your alignment before putting the tension on the belt.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
Thanks for response I will try it tomarrow(Tue. 10-7-03)!!
I am also trying to get an impact wrench!!

 
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10-06-03, 08:58 PM   #16  
Rc4b
Jamming the teeth!

Originally posted by mike from nj
remember, that crank bolt is probably the tightest bolt on the car, and if it isn't as tight when your done, it will eventually loosen and do a lot of damage to the crankshaft.

in the absense of air tools, you will need a huge ratchet, and probably a pipe to go on it too. then all you need to do is keep the engine from turning somehow. if possible, i always take out the torque converter inspection shield and put a big screwdriver into the teeth to jamb it against the case.


you will also need a floor jack and a block of wood to support the engine when you take out the front mount, just so you know.


Thanks for the help!!

I will try it tomarrow!
trying too get air tools and trying that if not I will try jamming the teeth!!

Thanks again!!

 
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