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thermostat


jbrenton's Avatar
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10-05-03, 12:58 PM   #1  
jbrenton
thermostat

I have a 1988 toyota camry se the heater blew hot air until this morning now just cold no matter what the setting is. I am thinking it is a seized thermostat any suggestions and does anyone know exactly where the thermostat is on a 2.5 l v6 1988 camry Im thinking its in the block but I havent even had the chance to look I know not all cars have there thermostats in the engine block.

 
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Joe_F's Avatar
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10-05-03, 03:57 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Change the antifreeze and thermostat and tell us what you find.

 
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10-08-03, 03:27 PM   #3  
matm347
Most heater circuits work behind the thermostat, what condition is the coolant in?

If the thermostat is no longer working, the motor would overheat rather quickly.

 
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10-08-03, 10:40 PM   #4  
mike from nj
unless it was stuck open, some thermostats are designed to fail 'open', then you'd have no heat and the car would run cool all the time.


yes, low coolant would cause no heat too

 
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10-09-03, 08:23 AM   #5  
matm347
If it was stuck open, it would heat up eventually, and quite possibly overheat in stop-n-go conditions.

 
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10-09-03, 08:31 AM   #6  
If it's stuck open the gage will barely move off the "C". It's not going to overheat not mater what if it's stuck open.

Larry

 
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10-09-03, 08:32 AM   #7  
Do you have the push button heater with the "auto" position on it?

Larry

 
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10-09-03, 08:49 AM   #8  
Here's a question I've had for quite some time now. Remember the old fashioned 'winter' 'summer' thermostats?

Since a radiator only disspates about 12 degrees of heat (measured from radiator inlet to outlet), what was the point of building 160 degree thermostats?

The engine is still going to heat up to 200 or more. The only thing that happens with a 160, is that it opens 3 minutes earlier than a 190, but after it opens, as with all engines, it stays open till you shut the engine off and it cools down (winter and summer).

I know this 160 stat only applys to the much older cars, but I still don't get it. What was the benefit of a 3 min delay to reach operating temperatures?

Perhaps it was simply that back in those days, 160 was all that you needed to warm up the engine, ya know, before computers and highly engineered emissions.

 
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10-09-03, 09:22 AM   #9  
Joe_F
I've always stuck with the OEM temperature stat and haven't had a problem .

 
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10-09-03, 09:40 AM   #10  
matm347
Originally posted by Lugnut
The engine is still going to heat up to 200 or more. The only thing that happens with a 160, is that it opens 3 minutes earlier than a 190, but after it opens, as with all engines, it stays open till you shut the engine off and it cools down (winter and summer).
With everything working properly, the Thermostat will open at 160, then shut after the water cooled in the radiator circulates.

They have determined that right around 200 degrees is the most efficient for combustion, so the closest to 200 you can get the better.

They use colder thermostats to help ward of detonation, race cars often use them, even though they are less efficient.

 
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10-09-03, 10:07 AM   #11  
The thermostat will open and close in an attempt to maintain the thermostats temp rating. A 160* stat will maintain 160* with a good working cooling system.

Larry

 
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10-19-03, 03:35 PM   #12  
No Heat

No big deal, if the thermostat breaks, and sticks open- no heat, unless the car is ideling in place, if it sticks closed-ouch- overheat.
Its cheap to replace, if you don't have a repair manuall for your car get one, but you can follow the radiator hoses one goes to the engin through the thermostat; just remove the bolts(probably 3) and replace. Some have seperate gaskets, and some are built in, very easy, very cheap, and takes about 15 min.

 
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10-19-03, 04:35 PM   #13  
What makes you think it's a thermostat problem to start with? Even without a thermostat you would get some heat. Just grab the top hose after it's been running for a while. If it feel pretty warm to the touch, your looking in the wrong place. Let's start looking at some heater controls like water control valve, blend door cable or mode control switch depending which type of controls you have. It sounds more like a heater issue than an engine temp issue. What's the temp gauge say anyway?

 
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10-20-03, 04:43 AM   #14  
Joe_F
Desi:

Dash temperature gauges are hardly reliable; hence they shouldn't be a barometer for how the engine is running .

Easiest way to diagnose this poster's problem: Feel both heater hoses going to the heater core/firewall. If both are hot, the problem is with the blend door/inside the car. If both are not hot, it's an engine cooling issue.

That's the first place to start .

 
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10-20-03, 04:53 AM   #15  
Disagree

Toyota Gages are very accurate, all models will read exactlly like each other

Larry

 
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10-20-03, 05:18 PM   #16  
Joe, your doing a lot of disagreeing with the guys that do this every day.

If both are hot, the problem is with the blend door/inside the car. If both are not hot, it's an engine cooling issue.

What if only one's hot? What's that mean?


I thought it would have been much simpler to just grap the upper hose to eliminate the t-stat question. Any heat at all should be felt inside unless there is a control problem. Feeling the heater hoses would be a good place to start once you know the engine is getting hot.

 
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10-20-03, 08:56 PM   #17  
mike from nj
gauges i've seen aren't accurate to the 'degrees' on the needle, but they are accurate to their movement and what it means is happening under the hood. the one exception is the dummy oil pressure gauge, which is a glorified light.

temp gauges always go up when coming off the highway(as they should) and always read cool/normal on the highway(as they should) just don't follow it to the actual degree

 
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10-21-03, 07:27 AM   #18  
Joe_F
Not arguing with anyone....

Again, you need to determine WHERE the problem is. Feeling the hoses is a good indication of what's going on.

 
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10-21-03, 02:35 PM   #19  
My 3 cents as a Toyota owner

Toyota makes great cars and trucks and your Camary is no exception they sold millions for a reason.
I would service the cooling system drain and flush and install a new Toyota OEM thermostat.
If stuck open it will not get hot like it should and since this is a computer controlled car it needs correct inputs from the temp sensors to get max performance.
Gone are the days of the 60s were running your 65 Impala with no thermostat was was a quick fix that sometimes lasted forever.
Spring for a 8 dollar bottle of anti frezze and a OEM thermostat I bet it will fix it.You have nothing to lose and your Camary will like some fresh coolant in it.

If this does not work Toyotaman is the Guru on Toyotas and has given some very good advice in the past.

 
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10-21-03, 02:38 PM   #20  
forgot something

It also would not hurt to replace hoses if they are old once again buy quality dont scrimp on cheap no name.Gates is good or Toyota OEM is good.

 
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10-21-03, 04:09 PM   #21  
There seems to be a lot of replies from people willing to help but, no further info from original poster in almost 3 weeks?

Can't help those that don't want to help themselves

Larry

 
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10-21-03, 04:28 PM   #22  
all we can do

Yep all we can do is try to help a guy out.It would be nice to hear the final outcome so we all can learn a thing or two.

 
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