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Valve Guide seals


lennyk's Avatar
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10-08-03, 06:14 AM   #1  
lennyk
Valve Guide seals

I'm going to be replacing the Valve guide seals in a 3.0 ltr v6 CHRYSLER engine. any tips or tricks b-4 I start??

 
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Joe_F's Avatar
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10-08-03, 09:35 AM   #2  
Joe_F
Pick up a good shop manual or check autolibrary.org below for good R&R instructions.

 
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10-08-03, 09:51 AM   #3  
Doug66
be sure to use plastic baggies and twistties to keep everything in order. doug

 
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10-08-03, 02:43 PM   #4  
matm347
Using some wire in the combustion chambers to hold up the valves while you have the springs off is cheaper than renting a machine to hook up to your compressor.
The lever action spring compressors are easier to work with than the screw style.

 
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10-08-03, 04:48 PM   #5  
lennyk
Thank You!

 
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10-08-03, 11:06 PM   #6  
mike from nj
depends on the year of the engine.

early ones (87-91ish) had a problem of the valve guide dropping in the cylinder head, you might find there's no guide left to put a seal on. (there's a bulletin specifying the engine build dates if your engine is close to that cut-off date) this is also very fixable and a permanent repair is possible for cheap, only thing is, you will need to remove the heads

after that date, it's just a simple seal replacement job. be prepared to spend the entire day doing this, it is tedious to do each and every valve, one by one, and try not to lose the keepers down an oil drain hole.

what i do, is take the heads off, it looks hard, but it really isn't. this way, i can do all the work on the bench, i can wire wheel all the caked on crud off the valves, clean all the carbon from the chambers, and put a fresh head gasket in there too. it is a quicker job to takes the heads off, than wrestling with everything being bent over the radiator.

while i'm at it, i replace the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, bypass hose and front cam seals, these are known leakers(cam seals)

then it is a worry-free, reliable engine for at least another 150,000 miles.

if you're going to remove the heads, do a compression test first. it's rare, but you might find a burnt valve with high mileage.

if not removing the heads, the hydraulic lifters will fall out of the rocker arms as you dissassemble. i like to use the valve cover itself to hold all the parts as i tear it apart, this way i know which head the parts came off and when it drips, the oil will be contained.

i use vasoline to hold the lifters into the rocker arms when reassembling, make sure they are in the right way(not upside down) and make sure the tiny air bleed hole in the rocker arm is clear, or it will never, ever stop tapping(ask me how i know)

 
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10-09-03, 05:04 AM   #7  
lennyk
Thank You Joe! Very Informative.

 
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10-09-03, 05:46 AM   #8  
lennyk
Thank you Mike

 
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