Need to make new car last driving over 100k/year


Old 10-08-03, 04:44 PM
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Need to make new car last driving over 100k/year

The Lord has blessed me, giving me a nice promotion at work. With this new job I get a car allowance and will use every penny of it. Im going to have to travel alot, like 100k/year or more! I just bought a new Cadillac CTS 3.2l V6 Auto. This car is a gem, very comfortable and very responsive. My question is, besides regular maint. which I am fanatical about, is there anything I can do to extend the life of this car. I have considered synthetic oils after the break-in time,(I did read the earlier post about synthetics) I would love to keep it till its paid for but that will be about a half million miles from now.
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Old 10-08-03, 10:43 PM
mike from nj
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follow the recommended maintenance in the owners manual and change the oil every 3,000 miles with regular non-synthetic oil. it will last to a quarter million miles easily
Old 10-09-03, 05:59 AM
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daveblan, I hope they're paying you a ton of money, but they must be or you wouldn't be "wasting" an expensive car like that. At 100K miles a year, you'll be driving 32 hours a week, (60 mph average).

We were a small manufacturers representative firm covering a large geograpy, TX, OK, LA and AR, and we regularly put 50-60K annually on our cars. Phone, fax and emails can't generate all the sales, at some point you need to go face to face.

Anyway we generally drove Ford LTDs, Lincoln Grand Marquis or some other "full size car". We all owned our cars individually and here's what we did.

1. I never bought "new", usually I'd buy less than a year old. Most people think the big expense in a car is the payment, nope it's the RAPID LOSS OF VALUE. A one year old car with 100K has ZERO VALUE on the used car market. Granted it's still worth a lot to you as transportation but it's cash value is still zero. I figured that zeroing out a $20,000 car in 3 years put a net $5,000 more in my pocket than did zeroing out a $35,000 car in 3 years. Actually someone who's smart about money will in fact buy a good looking, well maintained, high mileage 3 year old car.

2. Oil and oil filter change every 5,000 miles. You'll be changing your oil every 2-3 weeks as it is, your time has value and theres negligible difference in the breakdown of the oil over the second 2,000 miles, but change the filter each time. Don't waste your money on synthetic oils or worry about the "brand differences" of oils or filters, that's wasted money. Wal-Mart does a perfectly fine oil and filter change for less than $15.

3 I always had the transmission fluid changed every 35,000, and the differential oil (these were rear wheel drive) at the same time.

4. Air filter at the 35K interval.

5 Coolant and hoses at 100,00 K, since breakdown of hoses is as much a function of time as use could probably do the hoses at 200K. I wasn't changing the hoses so much to extend the life of the car as to prevent that costly (in time and money) roadside breakdown.

6. Keep your tires inflated correctly, balanced and wheels algigned. Misalignment puts strain on mechanical components too, not just the tires.

Any modern, (large company produced) automobile can easily go 250K plus miles without any problems with drivetrain. Although as an older guy I do tend to worry a bit about some of the "newer" automatic transmissions.

Congratulations on the promotion.

Old 10-09-03, 06:19 AM
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Let's see, that comes to about 300 miles a day, or say 6 hours of driving a day. hmmm, maybe you could consider an RV instead of a car. Congrates on the new caddy, you should enjoy the miles cruising the countryside in the lap of luxuary. I like the way you think.

Do they make LeBra hood covers for caddies? That would be a good item for the highway miles and bugs you will meet up with. Your hood paint job will be the first to go. Followed by a pitted windshield two years later.

Load up on comprehesive insurance,,you will make out like a bandit since you will have 5 years of dings and things in just one year.

Say, does your car have that GPS thing-a-ma-jig, On-Star or some such thing? That would be really cool.

Basically your car will be in a time warp. Your 60,000 mile parts, (belts, headlamps, alternator, battery, brakes) may need attention in 6 months instead of 4 years. You may find yourself caught offguard for this time warp. In 6 months, your new tires may be balding and out of balance before your new car smell is gone. Be prepared.

Aside from that, maybe a fishing tackle box in the trunk loaded with parts that the auto stores may not yet stock for a brand spanking new Cadilac. For example, I saw a 2003 car the other day that had a weird looking headlamp, never seen one before,,dealer-only part. A brand new caddy may just have some of those 'dealer-only' parts for the first year or two. Or just for safety and convenience, carry wiper blades, headlamp, tail light, flashlight, road flares, tire puncture seal in a can, a battery booster jump pack, spare serpentine belt so some small town garage can replace it, and a AAA card.

Those kind of driving hours is an excellent time to buy a set of foreign language learning tapes. They is no better place to learn a foreign language than being stuck in a car 30 hours a week. For around $300, you can buy Pimsleur tapes on the web for any language and learn a foreign language or two. There basic course is only $80. Poly vue francee. Comprendi amigo. Spreken z doytch.

Happy motoring.
Old 10-09-03, 07:08 AM
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I'm with Mike. Follow the owner's manual to a T and if the the vehicle is properly designed and well built, it will reward you with stellar service.
Old 10-10-03, 09:41 PM
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While the car is in warranty you must follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule to keep the warranty coverage. Regular oil is fine BUT if you want the car to last as long as possible use synthetic oil. As much as you will be driving you can follow the normal maintence schedule for oil changes. After the warranty is up you can let the car go twice as long on oil changes with synthetic. Synthetic is more expensive but if you change it half as often the cost is about a wash. The biggest advantage in your case is longer engine life. You also will get a little better fuel economy which does not hurt. It will start easier in cold weather and you will have less engine wear on start up especially in cold weather.

Cars like corvette, porsche, viper etc. come with synthetic and must have synthetic to maintain warranty coverage. Most of these cars get the crap ran out of them and the factory knows this. They want them to have the best protection possible or they would not spend the money to put synthetic in them. Also it protects them from warranty claims. When they have an engine failure they can have the oil analyzed and if it is not synthetic the bill is on you!!

If you want the best odds possible for long trouble free engine life use synthetic. The courrier who put 1,000,000 miles on a Honda with no engine work other than regular maintenance used synthetic oil. Honda gave him a new car for his old one!!
Old 10-11-03, 09:56 AM
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Thanks all, I have loged a little over 1000 miles this week and I am still in training. The car is great. The most comfortable car I have ever driven. I said the car is new but thats not quite true, it had 3000 miles on it when I bought it, the origional owner didnt like it and traded it in on a new lincoln, that saved me almost 7 grand off the sticker price. The sad news is how badly we (wife and kids) miss our Suburban that we traded in for this car. The Caddy has every option except the navigation system, somthing that I could have actually used with all the traveling I will be doing. Again thanks for the advice and Ill let you all know how it holds up.
Old 10-11-03, 07:07 PM
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If the owner's manual doesn't recommend/suggest synthetic, you are wasting your money.


Extended drain intervals. Fallacy. Oil is oil. You DON'T want crap floating around in your engine longer than needed. That is why we change our oil to flush out such junk. Extending that means the crap floats around longer in the engine=more damage.
Old 10-15-03, 09:29 PM
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With all due respect You are off base on this one. The oil filter will catch the suspended particles (crap-junk). If you go so long that the filter is full and the by pass opens then you have a problem with un filtered oil. Extended drain intervals are not a falacy as long as they are not over done.

Oil is oil is like saying a car is a car so you buy a Yugo and I will buy an Acura and we will maintain them and drive them equally and lets see which one lasts longer and needs less maintenance. You get what you pay for. Ask the guy with the 1 million mile Honda with no engine work if oil is oil.

Like I said if you want to put the odds in your favor to get the maximum of mileage from an engine, synthetic is by far the best way to go, and it is NOT a waste of money in that respect.

For many people who do not intend to keep their cars that long regular oil will do them just fine but the person who gets the car next and tries to put a few more hundred thousand miles on it will wish the first owner had used synthetic.
Old 10-15-03, 10:15 PM
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I'm no expert by any stretch, but with such frequent oil changes, wouldn't synthetic be a waste of money? Sure you "could" extend the intervals, but what's the point? The oil is hardly in there for long before it gets dumped, so why does it matter if they use synthetic?
Old 10-15-03, 11:46 PM
mike from nj
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car nut, this is an argument that will last long after we do, and i don't expect it to end here either

the facts: my car's engine is a known oil burner, smoker, oil leaker, and occasionally a noisy lifter one. it does none of that, has 187,500 miles, is abused daily by me, and still has 5 quarts on the dipstick when i change it every 3000 miles. i usually reuse the oil filter too, sometimes twice or even three times(i'm cheap)and it has never seen synthetic since i've owned it at 89,000 miles.

the filter removes suspended particles down to a known micron size, that's it.

what ruins oil is 'dissolved' contaminants, like 'blow-by' which is gasoline, and readily dissolves in oil, and just a little bit of that will quickly ruin the oil(ever driven with the choke stuck on).
there's also acid by-products from combustion and also moisture(water), the filter removes NONE of this, and remains suspended in the oil until it's time to change it, that's why you should change it when it's hot, so you can remove more junk from the engine.

think of your oil as a sponge, and it can only hold so much, then it's saturated with crud and it quickly starts accumulating on the bottom of the pan.

synthetic has a higher resistance to heat, that's why it's used in mostly turbocharged engines and high rpm ones.

when i let my oil go to 4000 miles one time, it had a very distinct smell, and it was pure black, compared to the usual 3000 mile oil that is somewhat see-through. that's my proof!

it's your money, spend it how you like to. i've proven to myself that synthetic is not necessary to get to 'high mileage' on a 'wear prone' engine
Old 10-16-03, 07:46 AM
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Mike said it well and said it right. You change your oil for a reason. You change it often for a reason. Be it synthetic or .80 cent oil from Sears, $1.50 Valvoline or anything in between.

I have "high end" vehicles and I can tell you that they don't get synthetic. They will last a lifetime because I change the oil and filter regularly with quality stuff.

Synthetic DOES NOT allow to extend your drain intervals (although they tend to advertise this as such).

Simply put: You don't want crap floating around in your engine longer than necessary as Mike and I have stated. By extending your drain intervals, you are floating this crap around there longer.

Use synthetic for the "benefits" it provides, but NOT for extended drain intervals.

You will have a tough time selling your case to a dealership for a warranty claim by saying, "Well I used Mobil 1 and went 10,000 miles on an oil change because they said so!!!".

They will simply show you the owner's manual maintenance schedule and laugh you out the door. And they have every right to.

If the manufacturer says 3k/3 months, you should follow that. To the letter. Every time. All the time. 100% of the time, no matter what type of oil is used.

For 99% of the cars out there, using synthetic will drain your wallet, not your oil change intervals. LOL.
Old 10-16-03, 04:24 PM
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Mike & Joe: You have some good points, but.

Joe, the first thing I said in my post is you must follow the manufacturers maintenance schedule to keep the warranty valid. So why do you imply in your post that I said otherwise?????

You are both missing the point. The original poster wants to put 500,000 miles on his car. He asked if there is "ANYTHING" he can do to extend the life of his car. He did not ask if synthetic costs more. I am sure he is smart enough to know that.

Mike, you are right we could debate the oil change interval issue to eternity. The correct way to tell when to change oil is to have a regular chemical analysis done on a sample of the oil. But at the current price of oil that is not cost efective!

Could he reach 500,000 miles on regular oil? Maybe if all the stars align correctly, but anyone who is knowledgeable about the subject will tell him the correct answer is to use synthetic oil to put the odds in his favor of reaching his goal.

Score: Mike & Joe 0
car nut 1
Old 10-16-03, 06:26 PM
mike from nj
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well, i guess i'll have to respectfully bow out of this discussion, as i am completely unknowledgable about the subject. what would i know anyway?

don't forget slumlordfrank, he also said it's completely unneccessary

score: Mike & Joe (and Frank) 0
car nut 1 "a winner!"
Old 10-16-03, 07:22 PM
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It's ok guys.

It is easy to get off track and give additional advice. But it would be good to keep the actual question in mind and be sure to also give a direct answer to the question.

By reading this forum I know all of you are smart guys. Keep up the good advice and remember a lot of people take what you say as gospel, so be sure to try to be as accurate as you can with your advice.

I have already learned things from all of you , and hope to learn even more.
Old 10-16-03, 08:35 PM
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This kind of got ridiculous. I have seen this oil topic get much nastier. Regular oil has been used in engines since they were invented, when did synthetic some in? BTW this is not being sarcastic or anything, I am just curious when synthetic was first made.
Old 10-16-03, 10:29 PM
mike from nj
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a second example: my uncle bought his 88 shadow new, has changed the oil with 79cent oil from k-mart and whatever filter is on sale every 2500-3000 miles himself. long commutes and he's at 204,000+miles. i've changed timing belts, a water pump and a fuel pump, never touched a bolt otherwise on the engine or trans.

it has no piston slap, no bearing noise and no lifter tap(and hardly any paint either), all classic problems on a 2.2/2.5L

this is another example of non synthetic and long engine life in a prone engine.

for the sake of discussion, what have you experienced with the $4+ a quart oil and high mileage?

ps. i do use mobil 1 in my turbo car, even though it has an oil cooler, it still heats the oil pretty good when i'm having fun, it provides that little extra heat protection it needs, and it never goes over 3000 miles, period.
Old 10-17-03, 06:31 AM
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I can easily show you cars that have many miles on them with just regular oil changes. Also, you might ask yourself about fleet usage.

Regular fleets of vehicles use regular oil for the long haul without any problems and easily acheive 500K miles or more out of their machines. Synthetic would be very cost prohibitive.

Again for high end equipment or high performance equipment maybe. For the average car, even in the long haul---no way.

Longevity, once again is more a function of REGULAR maintenance over throwing high dollar product at the problem.

Fleet Managers, fleet milers 500,000+
Car Nut: 1

The winner is obvious based on history .
Old 10-17-03, 08:45 AM
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You are both missing the point. The original poster wants to put 500,000 miles on his car. He asked if there is "ANYTHING" he can do to extend the life of his car. He did not ask if synthetic costs more. I am sure he is smart enough to know that.

I think the above quote sums it up. I never said you could not get high mileage from regular oil. Nor did I say synthetic had the lowest initial cost, even though the cost of synthetic would be very small compared to a repair cost if the repair could have been avoided by using synthetic. The correct answer to his question was and still is synthetic oil will give him the best odds of reaching 500,000 miles with out an engine repair or replacement.

Ask the guy with the 1,000,000 mile Honda if he thinks synthetic is worth the extra cost.

There is no winner here, but you guys did not give the original poster the correct answer to the question he asked.

Kurt: I do not know but I believe I recall Amsoil having synthetic back inthe 70s.

Mike: The K-Mart or what ever off brand oil is really a major brand such as penzoil, castrol etc. in a K-mart bottle. (Wal Mart now has an off brand synthetic.) As you know long drives are the best thing you can do for long engine life. With that type of driving he does uour uncle is changing the oil to often and wasting our natural resources. Just have him read the owner's manual. Of course it is his choice and his money. Has changing the oil to frequently saved him any repair costs? No one will ever know but I guess probably not.

If your uncle had been driving 1 mile to work each day you would have probably had to replace the engine by 100,000 miles or less. But you knew that.

Of course if you believe it when Joe said "oil is oil" next time use non detergent oil and see how many miles you get out of your next engine.
Old 10-17-03, 09:05 AM
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I can tell you that I use major oil brands on sale (Sears, Exxon, Texaco, etc) and all of my cars have perfect oil pressure and are spotless inside the motor. I've never had any oil pressure problems in any car in 15 years of driving. Neither have the 15+ cars I maintain for neighbors and relatives. .

If you think Castrol is better than Exxon, better than Mobil, better than brand X, etc., then independent tests prove ya wrong. In this sense, "oil is oil". Use any good quality brand that meets or exceeds the API standard for the vehicle and is the right weight and you are fine. Change it regulary and you're good to go.

Consumer Reports did a study with NYC taxis and various brands of oil. All were changed at the same schedules, different brands were used. The engines were compared after all vehicles reached a certain mileage.

Conclusion: No distinct difference in wear between brands used. Again, proving that maintenance, not dollars nets a longer running car.

I have many cars that were given to me with over 100k on them. Still, none of them see synthetic.

The fact is that synthetic motor oil doesn't benefit you on a regular car. Period. The car is not going to "last longer" because of synthetic.

The fact IS that the million mile Honda guy or Volvo guy or Cadillac guy or whoever is regular with his/her maintenance practices and that is what makes the car last.

A well built machine could go 1,000,000 miles easily on regular oil as you noted. And chances are if you took all those million mile cars and compared them, I'd bet half of those guys used regular motor oil .

A car like any piece of equipment needs regular maintenance. Sometimes when changing my oil I check other things when I'm there. If I stretch that out to 6 months lets say or more mileage, there is less of a chance to spot anything because I'm checking LESS times for problems.

Talk to any fleet manager (who by the way own 500,000 mile vehicles on a regular basis) and they will tell you the single best thing you can do for ANY machine is maintenance, not throwing high dollar product at the machine.

Nut: Good chance that Mike's uncle idles the vehicle too or does high speed turnpike driving being he's probably from NJ like Mike is. That's tough on oil so 3k/3mo is NOT a waste of resources. Besides, recycling oil is easier than trying to recycle a whole car. LOL.

Original poster: You have various opinions here. The choice is yours as to what to do.

The facts have been proven with billions of fleet miles.
Old 10-17-03, 09:05 AM
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Gotta chime in here. Synthetic oil is better than dino oil--all tests prove it. Yes it is more $. Will an engine run a long time with regular oil/changes--yes. Will it run even longer with synthetics--I believe yes. I run mobil 1 in everything I own--lawn mower, harley, GMC, wifes cougar, '78 T/A. I follow the FACTORY change intervals with the mobil 1--not the every 3000 miles that I have never seen in an owners manual!
Old 10-17-03, 09:00 PM
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Originally posted by redneck
Gotta chime in here. Synthetic oil is better than dino oil--all tests prove it. Yes it is more $. Will an engine run a long time with regular oil/changes--yes. Will it run even longer with synthetics--I believe yes. I run mobil 1 in everything I own--lawn mower, harley, GMC, wifes cougar, '78 T/A. I follow the FACTORY change intervals with the mobil 1--not the every 3000 miles that I have never seen in an owners manual!
redneck: Thanks for the help. You are exactly right.

They may bash you for wasting money but as you know you are putting the odds in your favor to keep your engines running as long as possible. And that is what the original poster asked about.
Old 10-17-03, 11:58 PM
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Let me see if I can shorten up this (these) stories...
My Dad bought a new Fiat X-19
After break-in only ran synthetic (new-fangled at the time)
After a few years wife #2 broke it (yeh the light was on but I thought if it was important it would have flashed or beeped or something)
The mechanic says to my dad, 'When was this rebuilt/replaced?"
"No, really...
I have ever seen the insides of an engine look this good
What did you do?"
"Mobil 1 every 3K"
Dad eventually buys a Mustang GT (86) and runs Mobil 1 after break-in
I bought it from him in...91? 92? and tried Castrol Syntec, (Ive used Castrol GTX [Dino] since...well, since before federal law made all oils the same)
Leaked like a...well...ya know
Mobile 1, 10W30, no prob.
Still run synthetic, first for HP, now 'cause it now sits for a while between start-ups
Mom bought a new 93 Altima
I do the maint. on family veh. and knowing Mom would not do the 3K maint. I said "Go Synth"
This was interesting
My V-8 w/putt-putt driving, w/synth oil, after 3K, looked like crap!
The 4-Cyl, 3K, almost all highway, clean as a whistle!
4K, good as gold
5K, 6K, 7K...better'n mine at 3K!
Mom, now retired in FLA, last month e-mailed me she traded in her 10 year old car, (with only brake,[Lord, she is hard on brakes], and exhaust work, salt water breezes off L.I. Sound kill those) for an Izuzu sport-ute .
My Bro-in-law who worked as a mechanic for a Toyota Dealer says he has found, ( an unscientfic founding), that people who switch brands of oil, (people who used the cheapest or had the best deal or coupons or whatnot), had the worst looking engines, inside)
Those who said; Valvoline, or Texico, or whatever, had much cleaner engines inside...
My daily putt putt driver 88 toyota...dino juice, -3K
Wife's highway commutin' escort wagon-synth, 5-7K, (she's not keen on reg. maint.)
the 'stang gets synth and back in full resto soon!
Mom's Izuzu gets synth
Gramma's Plymouth Gran Fury gets dino juice twice a year (.002K)
(if even)
Sis's 2.8 Firebird gets dino
(bought w/80k of unknown maint.) when she calls me
Bro-in law's (small) fleet of Ram PU's, synth from break-in
Most of my pals vehicles, (of unknown maint.), get dino juice
We are all happy!
Old 10-18-03, 12:27 AM
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Hey guys....this oil subject was covered once me....Remember the NASA tests???? At 10,000 miles synthetic oil provided BETTER protection than NEW conventional oil.

This was not stated in my previous posts on this subject....but I ran synthetic in my lawnmower, a guy down the street that had the same one(we had a business...I was 13) did not. They both sat for the same amount of time during the winter...I pulled the heads off to clean them....and just out of curiosity I felt my cylinder wall, and I felt his....the difference was staggering, mine felt slippery(all around), his felt bone dry. I even pulled his a few times to let the oil coat a bit ....where the oil coated it was a little more slippery, where it didnt, still bone dry. This proved to me that it bonds and protects during cold startup better.
The warrenty on my new Honda(HRC-216HXA comercial mower) was DOUBLED by me simply running synthetic.

Mustangs dyno 10 RWHP(~12 FWHP) with just swapping the oil, this is proof that it reduces friction....less friction = better mileage = less wear.

I urge those that think it's a waste of $$$ to test it for themselves, the proof will present itself.

Regular oil is cheap, and cars will see many miles with regular maintenance, the proof is out there....but I am willing to bet any amount that they would last LONGER if they used synthetics under the same conditions.

I don't know when synthetic was invented, but It was out in the early 90's(that I know of).
Old 10-18-03, 10:22 AM
mike from nj
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i guess i can't argue with NASA, seeing as i'm no rocket scientist

i just call it as i see it.

matm, ask your friend when the space shuttle is due to return to space, maybe they went too long between changes or left the oil filter loose? maybe someone switched the mobil 1 with regular oil?

(ps. i'm not poking fun at the tragic loss)just a little side humor
Old 10-18-03, 07:27 PM
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Talk to any fleet manager. They have to keep their fleets running as cheaply as possible, yet avoid breakdowns.

Most run regular oil and do regular maintenance. Your average over the the road truck EASILY has a million miles on it. Can't argue with that for longevity. A Peterbilt will cost you over 125,000 bones to replace .

It's maintenance regularity. That is the key to longevity. Always has been, always will be.

The original poster asked what can be done to prolong the life of the vehicle. The answer is regular maintenance. Follow the severe service category in the owner's manual and it will run forever.
Old 10-19-03, 07:26 AM
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OK guys
I have to chime in here with one point no one has brought up.
Leaving petrolium based oils in a car too long produces sludge. This is caused by continuious heating of the oil which turns it to ash. When normal condensation is added to this mix, sludge is the result. This does not occur with synthetic oils. They wil not change viscosity under extreme temperatures as petrolium based oils will. I agree that chemicals will contaminate the oil eventually but you CAN extend change intervals. Manufacturers will never agree to this because there is not reason for them to do that. They don't sell these oils. Why agree with them? Take away the sludge and the viscosity breakdown and you have great lubricating properties for a long time.
Old 10-20-03, 05:09 AM
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Ummm, no .

Think of it this way. If your body had an infection, you'd want it out of your system as soon as possible. If you have dirt and crap in your oil (which you do with ANY oil), you want it out of there as quickly as you can because dirt and abrasives will cause wear.

As Mike stated a few posts up, oil is like a sponge. When it's saturated with dirt, it's done. The only thing that helps is to remove this mess and replace it with new.

That is why you want to change your oil frequently .

Friend of mine has a 1977 Z28 with 500k+ on the original motor, and 275,000k on a tranny he replaced in 1980 (He is a parts manager at a GM dealer in TX). So if this old iron can last with regular maintenance, this new vehicle can last with it .
Old 10-20-03, 08:21 AM
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I'm not going to argue that synthetic is not better then regular oil because it is. It was made specifically for that. Any oil that has a higher breakdown temperature is better then one with a lower breakdown temperature. However, I see no major advantage in using it in a car that doesn't require it. Even if you do keep the ol there for 7000 miles you'll still need to change the filter at half the interval. Junk in the engine is junk in the engine (not talking about solid particles), and the same amount will get produced whether synthetic or regular oil is used. Incidentally, not all oils are exactly equal in quality. I never buy PepBoys brand oil anymore because it's horrible. Even my 94 Camry burns it like lamp oil , even though it burns no other brand of oil. It looks like it's thinner then most other oils.
How many people here use premium gas in their cars when it calls for regular? How many believe that just because you use BP Ultimate your engine will be cleaner and it will break down less often?
Old 10-20-03, 09:26 AM
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Couple of thoughts,
If you are going to be putting that much milage on the car, don't waste your time changing your oil every 3K miles. Check your manual and see what the manufacture recommends for light duty driving.
Synthetic is a better oil. Period. One point that may be missed is that it is only as good as the filter that filters the oil. Check into a filter bypass for extended drain info.

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Old 10-20-03, 12:54 PM
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Interesting reading on the subject...

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Old 10-20-03, 03:06 PM
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You call 100 miles per year "light duty" Umm.......
Old 10-20-03, 03:30 PM
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You wanted some documentation? Here's your study from the link above. This test only covers Mobil 1 and there about to test Amsoil next. There constant analysis of the oil took them to 17K before there was enough degredation of the oil to drain it. Here's a quote from the final segment of the test. Joe this should put your theory to rest. OH, and there was only 1 filter change during this test.

Mile 17,000 -- Stephen Scheifler, September 17, 2003.
Oil/Vehicle miles: 17,031 / 26,970
Oil added after sample: 1/2 quart

Oil pressure is noticeably higher than it was before the viscosity went nuts on us, so we're looking forward to finishing this test and moving on. We've decided against using viscosity as a test-ending value, but we'll certainly flag the oil when it creeps out of grade. The viscosity has slipped back down a little, keeping it safely in grade, but the TBN sure has taken a dive. Also note the sudden increase in wear numbers, especially iron and lead. As of this writing we're waffling on whether to continue. Another wrinkle: the insolubles have again reached the trigger point for an oil filter change. Is it worth it, or is it time to put this to bed? Hm.
Old 10-20-03, 04:46 PM
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Cmon old champ, wake up and smell the coffee.

Both Amsoil and ExxonMobil support that SPAM, I mean site (look on the left side) you've posted. Are either going to tell you the REAL truth? Fat chance of that.

One reason I deleted it the first time. Not to mention it's advertising and not allowed here.
Old 10-20-03, 05:03 PM
Desi501's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boynton Beach Florida
Posts: 2,207
It was a legitimate test with specific results. Why can't you swallow that?

The biggest contamination that you find in you oil comes from the oil itself. There's plenty of techs supporting the position that synthetic oils can go longer intervals without any detrimental results.
I have seen it in many instances through the years. I experimented with it in oval track cars back in the sixties. Although I did no chemical analysis, I had very noticable differences in the properties of the oils. I run Castrol synthetic in my own vehicle for 10K and change the filter and add a qt every 3 - 4K. I tow a 5000lb boat, sometimes on long distances. The inside of my engine is spotless and doesn't burn a drop. Even when the temp rises to the 220 range on hot days, the oil pressure doesn't drop a pound.
Old 10-21-03, 09:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Darwin NT Australia
Posts: 188
"The inside of my engine is spotless....................."

I have seen that comment, or similar quite a few times on this topic, and I just have to ask..........

How would you know it's spotless unless you pull it apart?

And if you had to pull it apart, why?

Just wondering.........
Old 10-22-03, 06:13 AM
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Considering I can still read all the casting numbers on the visible parts in there and the oil comes out (and smells) the same as when it came out of the bottle as well as perfect oil pressure, I'd say it's pretty good in there .

I've never had an oil related failure in any car I've owned and I've been driving 15+ years now.
Old 10-22-03, 11:31 AM
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doesn't clean oil just mean the the dirt is still in your engine rather than being suspended in the oil? I don't doubt that you get great protection with dino oil and a good maintence schedule, its just that you get better protection with synthetic.
edit: with all of that I think I would buy a better filter than just buying better oil as well.
Old 10-22-03, 11:44 AM
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Nope, that's not true. Clean oil frequently changed means a clean engine.

Filters trap up to 1 micron, that's about it.
Old 10-22-03, 05:37 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boynton Beach Florida
Posts: 2,207
You guys are too much. Believe me, synthetic oil can protect better and go longer intervals without ANY detrimental problems. I've been around this too many years and I've seen the proof many, many times. Heating petrolium oils creates ash, ash and moisture creat sludge. Filters pick up suspended particles and still have good filtering capability LONG after normal change intervals but i reccomend changing then more freguently. Chemical contamination occurs much slower that you think. And yes, all I have to do is remove my valve cover or intake manifold to see the results. You parts guys can preach this stuff all day long. I've had too much experience with this to be convinced otherwise.

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