82 Chevy Citation

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  #1  
Old 10-13-03, 08:52 PM
KurtDixon
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82 Chevy Citation

I just got the beater from my grandma. It has 40,000 kms on it (so about 25,000 miles) from 1982. So the problems are not from wear, they are from sitting for 21 years without much use. There are a few things stuck/rusted (for example, the little vents under the dash, as well as the e-brake.) On startup, it belches black smoke. (making me think it is burning rich, it shouldn't be burning oil after only 40,000 although the coolant level is low so maybe it has a cracked head/blown head gasket? It was driven in the city by my grandma so that isn't very likely either.) it gets better as it warms up, but you can always smell it. I am going to take a look at the air filter and after that I have no idea what to look for. Right now it has almost no power (shaking and ratteling at 110 KPH, can barely make it up hills, falls to about 80 KPH when trying to climb) Obviously I wasn't expecting the thing to burst off the line, but usually a car can make it up a hill without dropping 30 KPH. I got the thing for free so I just want it running somewhat well, without belching black smoke and able to make it up hills.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-13-03, 09:29 PM
Doug66
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hi kirt, looks like you got a collector's item for free. i had an '86 chevy citationII and ran pretty good, it was a fwd. im not a car expert but i would change the feul filter, spark plugs, air filter, pvc valve, oil & filter, check tranny fluid, coolant clean all around distributor and check for any leaks by placing a big clean sheet of cardboard under engine just for starts. relatively inexpensive. also, i would get an auto repair manual from autozone or pepboys and study it. doug
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-03, 10:12 PM
KurtDixon
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Collectors item! In that case... Well I am not sure mine is much of a collectors model with the 2.2L 90 horsepower 4 banger lol. Plus the interior is falling apart, however there is not a speck of rust on it Thanks for the tips, I will check them out before the winter rolls in.
 
  #4  
Old 10-13-03, 10:32 PM
KurtDixon
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Oh and yet another problem I forgot about, the steering wheel is not straight, rather when the wheels are pointed straight, the steering wheel is turned about 60 degrees from center. What could cause that? A jumped tooth on the rack and pinion? I don't really care but I am just curious
 
  #5  
Old 10-14-03, 03:48 AM
Joe_F
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Doug:

I think you mean '85 Citation, as there was no 1986 model of this to my knowledge. GM stopped this X body in 1985.

Also, these had 2.5 liter engines. I believe most were FI in 1982, but Kurt is in Canada. There, they may have still had the carbed version in '82 as well as here.

Kurt:

Vehicle sounds pretty rough, but the price was right. I'm guessing most of the tuneup parts are original, so as suggested, start here. Keep it simple with this vehicle, and don't spend a lot (but make it safe). It's a $500 car at best on a good day here in the States....

Start by tuning it up, checking all your vacuum lines and pulling any trouble codes from the computer that exist.

Use autolibrary.org below and my "The Basics" to guide you and let's see where that nets us.
 
  #6  
Old 10-14-03, 05:56 PM
KurtDixon
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I am almost positive it is the carbureted 2.2 engine. The manual says two engines were available, the V6 and this little 4. But I will double check. I think since everything is so old, sticky and gummed up, I will just take it in for a tune up, that is easiest. Thanks for the tips.
 
  #7  
Old 10-14-03, 07:01 PM
Doug66
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i would find the section in your manual for taking the carbuator apart and cleaning it, that is, if there's a section on that and you enjoy working on cars yourself. oh well, i still say it's a collector's item, doug p.s. joe-i did have an '86 citation it was a citation II
 
  #8  
Old 10-14-03, 08:48 PM
KurtDixon
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I was wrong again, it DOES have the 2.5 L4. You said ALL 2.5's are FIed? If they are, that is a relief since I heard the carbs on these cars are problematic.
 
  #9  
Old 10-15-03, 03:59 AM
Joe_F
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Doug:

I think you mean 85.5 or late '85, as I don't see any record of an '86. I'll check the GM parts catalog later to be sure, but Citation II just meant it was "redesigned" over the orignal 1980 iteration.

Kurt: Some 2.5 were FI, some were carbed. Your vin # will tell me which you have if you post it. If it carbed, it has a pesky Varajet. These are not fun to rebuild.
 
  #10  
Old 10-15-03, 07:17 PM
KurtDixon
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I took a look at the VIN tag and guess what! It is faded away! Mind you, it was in the dark so I will take a second look tomorrow, but what if it IS faded away, will I even be able to get plates/insurance without a VIN? In any case, under the air filter cover, there is a brass colored plate with a rectangle flap towards the rear and an open rectangular shaped opening towards the front. I am fairly sure this baby has a carb BTW I think I found the black smoke problem, the air filter is oily, greasy and black.
 
  #11  
Old 10-16-03, 08:07 AM
Joe_F
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Doug:

GM clearly states that '85 was the last year for a Citation. You had a late '85, sold as a 1985 model. There is no 1986 Citation.

That would easily be confirmed by looking at the 10th digit of the vin. It will be an F for 1985 model year.

Kurt:

That is not the likely cause for the problems you are having. It could be a vacuum line off of a MAP sensor, a sticking choke, a misfiring engine and just about anything else. Take your time with this. Throw out all the tune up parts (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air, gas filters, PCV, oil and filter, etc) for new ones as they are probably original and long overdue for replacement.

Clean out the carburetor with Gumout. Change all the rubber vacuum lines for new ones. Go one at a time and replace them to avoid mixup. If any are where they should not be, use the underhood diagram to guide you as to what goes where.

What you describe could also be a throttle body as well. Most of the Citations of that era had "2.5 FI" badges on the side if they were throttle body fuel injected.

A 1982 Citation only came 2.5 liter carbed or throttle body FI, or 2.8 liter carbed.

As for the VIN #, check again. Unless the car had the windshield out or a SEVERE water leak, the VIN should be legible. Also, on the door jamb on the driver's side is a sticker that says, "Manufactured by General Motors Coporation". It will have the VIN # on that sticker too along with safety and certification information.

If you post the VIN #, I will break it down for you and tell you what you have there.
 
  #12  
Old 10-16-03, 08:27 PM
KurtDixon
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I will look at the door sticker tomorrow (it is dark again)
The tag slipped below the edge of the windshield so that is why I could not see the numbers. Like I said, it is night again. The car won't be driven until february so i'm not going to do a tune up until it is nearer to feb. Now I just want to find out if it is FI or carburated. I will post the VIN tomorrow when it is not dark out.
 
  #13  
Old 10-17-03, 06:34 AM
Joe_F
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Arrow

Ok.
 
  #14  
Old 10-17-03, 02:48 PM
KurtDixon
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The VIN is
1G1AX0858CT135268
That 0 "may" be a O, the tag was really dusty and dirty which is why I couldn't see the code at first. Thanks for your time.
 
  #15  
Old 10-17-03, 03:39 PM
KurtDixon
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On carfax.com, it says
2.5L L4 2BBL OHV
What does 2BBL stand for? I have seen that used for types of carbs. But what does BBL stand for?
 
  #16  
Old 10-18-03, 09:28 AM
mike from nj
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2 bbl=2 barrel carb(vs. a 4barrel or a single barrel), it just means how much air it can handle, it's all this little engine needed when the engineers designed it(between smoke breaks)
 
  #17  
Old 10-18-03, 12:59 PM
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Running rich

Sounds like it's running pretty rich for some reason. Check things like stuck choke plate, problem with choke electric heater, sticking needle and seat, plugged air filter. bad mixture solenoid
As far as you off center steering wheel, that's just a wheel alignment. Don't drive too far before getting that though.
 
  #18  
Old 10-18-03, 01:38 PM
KurtDixon
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It doesn't puff black smoke nearly as much (I kind of scraped off the black grease on the air filter screen) I know, I know, the air filter still has to be changed, but again we will wait until the tune up since this car will be driven maybe once until january. At start up (and for about 20 seconds) clear air comes out of the exaust, then white smoke comes out for another minute (only a tiny bit, not huge clouds) snapping down the accelerator sprays out a good bit of water and the exaust is clean again. So I guess the white is just from the water in the exaust pipe vaporizing? Anyway, it also needs a coolant flush. Thanks for your time, now I have done everything I can right now (it is mighty cold out there now and I don't want to delve into much myself at this time.) Another thing that tipped me off to a tune up needed, the spark plugs and wires are pretty corroded I just keep finding surprises...
 
  #19  
Old 10-18-03, 06:45 PM
Joe_F
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Definitely a 1982 (10th digit is a C), definitely a 2.5 carbed motor (8th digit is a 5), it's US made (first digit is a 1), made in Tarrytown, NY (11th digit is a T), which is closed now.

The 08 is the body style and my guess is a 4 door, but I'm working without my books in front of me. This is listed in the 82-90 B,G,T,X #17W Chevy parts book which I have it at work .

Kurt: Plan this out as you are trying to do. Vehicle sounds rough and original and in need of some TLC to make it roadworthy, efficient and safe.
 
  #20  
Old 10-18-03, 10:29 PM
KurtDixon
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It is a 2 door I do know my grandma changed the oil like she was supposed to (the oil was a nice honey color, looked brand new.) But I don't think she knew about much else. They did have a book that said "x-bodies" on it. I think it is a repair manual, it goes through basic maintenence and repair procedures. I just wish I had tools other than a hammer and basic household tools, I could do a few things in the garage, I don't even have a long socket to remove the spark plugs, any other way other than a long socket?
 
  #21  
Old 10-19-03, 05:02 AM
Joe_F
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Save your money on the generic books and find a good used GM shop manual on Ebay. I got one for my Cavalier for $15. A Chilton will cost you that.

As a side note, Kurt, since I know you post alot in Jeff's forum, I just got a WLP direct drive OEM repair manual for my mother's machine (one of the ones you see me post about fixing there) for $8.00 delivered. The guy had it up on Ebay for $15.00 and it didn't sell. I contacted him, offered him 8 bucks with shipping (book is brand new), he bit, and I own the book. Apparently, the WLP manuals are not hot sellers. LOL.

Point is: Deals can be had. Shop smart. I did with these appliance books, and if I paid for the price of one new in total and got all of them as a result, that's "a lot". Basically, I got all of these manual for the price of ONE new .

As for tools, what I did when I started out (although I inherited all of my dad's tools when he passed away in 1988, so I had a good start, because he was handy) was to watch for sales at Sears on nice sets of tools.

I just used my 1990 era "briefcase" set (their tool cases look like briefcases) yesterday. It's 99% original, I think I broke one socket 5 years ago. LOL. I have the bill filed away, I think I paid $50 at that time because my mother had some coupons from the flyer that day. Great value and they still have sets like these really cheap if you shop around. Get sets that have SAE and metric, you will need both.

Sears Craftsman tools are reasonably priced, good quality for the home user/hobbyist (and even the professional) and give a lifetime warranty on many hand tools. Break 'em, bring it back and get another one free of charge, no questions asked.

Save some pennies first, get some tools and a manual and you should be able to handle most repairs. For specialty tools, Autozone can rent those to you free of charge through a tool repair program they have. I believe you have Autozone stores in Canada?
 
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