92 Accord LX no-start

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  #1  
Old 10-13-03, 10:56 PM
borg71
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92 Accord LX no-start

I have a 92 Accord. It was working fine before and then just suddenly died on freeway one day. Now it can't be started at all but does turn over.


The fuel part should be fine--when I was replacing the fuel filter during troubleshooting, it does deliver fuel. However I do not have fuel pressure gauge so I can't check the pressure to know for 100% certainty.


Compression is a bit low on cylinder 1 and 4 (~80 psi; 100~120 psi after adding in a bit of motor oil to the chamber) but the mileage on engine is high (210k) so I think it's expected. Cylinder 2 and 3 are at ~150 psi.


Spark test seems to fail. I tested by sticking a metal screwdriver into plug wire #1 and placing it close to ground while starting engine. No sparks from this. All fuses are good and no ECU code. New battery and new NGK plugs. Plug wire resistances are within spec (~20K ohms).

At first I thought it's the ignition coil because I was getting 0 ohm (spec calls for 0.6~0.8 ohms) between terminal A & C on primary winding resistance on ignition coil. Still can't start with brand new coil so I returned it for another new one and tested it before connecting it to the car. All the reading are exactly the same as one original one in my car so the old coil should be good and the 0 ohm reading is probably due to variation from ambient temperature at time of measurement.

Next thing I did was testing the various inputs to the igniter. All the voltage tests for it are fine. I tested continuity from igniter to ECU by unplugging that wire at the igniter. ECU does display appropriate code when I do that so that wire should be fine.

I tested continuity between igniter and tachometer and it is fine up to the wire connection assembly for the entire gauge panel. I didn't measure all the way to the tach because I didn't want to disassemble the gauge panel unless I really have to. So what I did was I measured the resistance from the lead for tach at panel to the ground and it does have resistance instead of open circuit. I assume this means that the connection to the tach is ok then.

What I've noticed is that the tach needle does not move when I try to start now but I don't know for sure if it is suppose to for 92 Accord. A 1987 Prelude that I tested on does, but 2000 CRV doesn't. I don't remember for sure but I think I might have also seen the tach needle erratically bounce up and down while cruising at fixed speed a few days before it died.

I am wondering if it's the igniter since it connects to the tach. Resistance test for it as per Chilton's tested out fine but factory manual does not have such test for igniter and says to replace it if other stuffs test out fine. The only other things I can think of are the tach itself or the distributor. However I can't find any testing procedures for these. Does any one of you have any suggestions or tips? Thanks
 

Last edited by borg71; 10-13-03 at 11:56 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-13-03, 11:24 PM
mike from nj
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take the dist cap off and crank the engine, is the rotor turning?
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-03, 11:55 PM
borg71
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Yes the rotor does turn. Timing belt and timing tension belt both look intact.
 
  #4  
Old 10-14-03, 03:52 AM
Joe_F
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There are some instances where the shop manual basically tells you to swap parts to see if that solves the problem

(Gee, we knew that. LOL).

Ignitor problems are common on these era Accords. Check alldata.com----I think you might find a bulletin or two there about this.

Also, these things seem to chew up main relays, have a look at that.
 
  #5  
Old 10-14-03, 03:24 PM
borg71
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Thx for the info.

Well, I just finished checking the PGM-FI ECU main relay and the wire harness connecting to it. Everything checked out fine. Guess it's time to part with $100 and get an ignitor to test.
 
  #6  
Old 10-15-03, 07:46 AM
Joe_F
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Arrow

Let us know the outcome.
 
  #7  
Old 10-15-03, 02:13 PM
borg71
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Talking

Thx for all the info/comments. It was the igniter and my car is moving again!

The new igniter comes with instruction that says I am suppose to put "silicon grease" between igniter and the metal bracket that holds it but the factory manual doesn't mention anything about this. It does look like there was something that was between the old igniter and the metal bracket but looks like its all dried up and gunky. Anyone know what the "silicon grease" is suppose to do and should I find some and put on it?
 
  #8  
Old 10-15-03, 03:55 PM
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The grease is intended to help dissipate heat.Yes I would put some on.
 
  #9  
Old 10-16-03, 07:50 AM
Joe_F
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Correct. If you don't, you may lunch your new igniter pretty quickly.

Glad you got it running again. Good job.
 
  #10  
Old 10-16-03, 11:50 AM
borg71
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I am having problem finding some silicon grease. The Kragen and Pepboys people seems to have no idea what I am talking about--they either point me to the lube aisle or tell me to use some dielectric grease. I don't think dielectric grease helps with thermal transfer isn't it? Does anyone know where I can find some? If it's for thermal transfer, can't I just use some thermal transfer compound that's used on computer CPUs?
 
  #11  
Old 10-16-03, 11:54 AM
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Diaelectic

It is the dialectic what you want dont put on with out it it is there as said to transfer heat,
 
  #12  
Old 10-16-03, 11:57 AM
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tell them

Tell the kids at the parts store it is the same thing you use under the ignition module on GM cars of the 70s Diealectic comes in a small tube.
 
  #13  
Old 10-16-03, 12:41 PM
Joe_F
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It usually comes with the new part.

As mentioned, dielectric grease is what you want.
 
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