92 Dodge Dynasty
3.3L EFI
Automatic Transmission


Ok, I realize this is a broad question, but I just want some suggestions.

Problem: Engine starts fine when its warm and no trouble first starting when its 70F. BUT, When its really cold outside, 30F, the engine will crank over, but stall out soon afterwards. I tried going down the road and stall out at the Stop sign, and then I'm overheating the starter cranking the engine over until it starts.

Now, if I put the car into neutral as I am approaching the stop sign, and rev the engine some, then I can keep the car started.

After the engine has warmed up, driving it 10 minutes later, THen I can stop at a redlight and there is no trouble at all remaining started.

This is EFI, but the symptoms remind me of the old days when we had carburetors on our engines, and the needle valve was not set right to give the proper mixture.. and therefore making it difficult to keep started when cold...

seems to me the only thing I have is the Automatic Idle Speed motor (Advance auto lists it as an air control motor) and then theres a fuel pressure regular. I have no throttle body temperature sensor on this model (but there is a throttle sensor).

So question is... what are commonly known trouble spot in such situation?

Given the cost of a garage to hook up a diagnostic, its cost effective to replace the parts involved...


(also, fuel pump is new, and creates a strong vacuum in the tank, as noted by the technician that did the Fuel Injector cleaning job)

Thanks

-Stephen

 

You need to scan the data and look at the values of all of those sensors. First check for any vacuum leaks and clean the throttle body and IAC. I would bet you probably do have an air intake temp sensor in there somewhere. Depending what you find there, you may go further to fuel pressure.

 

IAC will give a fit like that, like desi sez, you really need a proper scan diagnosis. Dealer would probably charge you for maybe 1/2 hour if you let them fix it, otherwise you will probably get and hour just for diagnosis.

 

the first thing i would do before anything else is clean the throttle blade and surrounding bore area spotless. then remove the tiny t25 torx screws and clean the ais motor (iac, idle air motor, idle control motor---all the same) spotless too, or simply replace it if you can't freely move it in and out(which isn't a recommended thing, but i do it anyway)


older 3.3Ls didn't have an iat sensor, (intake air temp sensor), if you did, it would be in the intake manifold on the bottom, about 3-5 inches behind the throttle body(in the curved portion).

 

I'd agree with Mike. If you have stored trouble codes, you can use www.batauto.com or go to Autozone to have them read.

DO NOT throw parts at the problem, it will cause you to spend needlessly and not solve the problem.

 

Thank you all for the help.

Also, i did not know that Autozone did the diagnostic for free. Last time I had a diagnostic done, I paid 80.00.


And Mike, i find your response very insightful.

-Stephen

 

also, you should be able to draw codes by cycling the key off and on 3 times. off, on, off, on, off, on, then count the series of flashes of the check engine light. it might start with a 12, but it will definitely end with a 55(meaning no codes)

(i think----it's been a long while since i've done this)


use something like 2+2 gumcutter for the throttle blade along with a rag.

 

Again, thanks Mike on the engine codes. Autozone can not check the codes because its a Dodge Prior to 1996.

I checked what you said about the IAC, and found that it was frozen in place.

I replaced that IAC, (and cleaned inside) and the car started right up better than it EVER did before, ... a difference of night and day...

Again, Thanks

-Stephen