93 Olds Cutlass Supreme won't keep running
#1
93 Olds Cutlass Supreme won't keep running
Good Morning !
Please help !! I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme v6/3.1 engine with 128k miles. I purchased it about 6 months ago, and it has had an unsteady idle and a hesitation during accelleration since day 1. I'm not sure if this is related, but yesterday when I tried to start, the engine turned "real smooth" as if there was No Spark. After a few attempts, I gave a steady push on the accellerator and got it to start ! However, as soon as I let go of the gas pedal it would Stall right away !! I tried this again and the same story !!!
I believe that I do have Spark, and the Fuel Pump is working due to the fact that it will run as long as it has a steady pressure from the gas pedal !
Please help, and let me know if there is anything else that I should check and/or what the problem may be..... Thanks!!!!!
Please help !! I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme v6/3.1 engine with 128k miles. I purchased it about 6 months ago, and it has had an unsteady idle and a hesitation during accelleration since day 1. I'm not sure if this is related, but yesterday when I tried to start, the engine turned "real smooth" as if there was No Spark. After a few attempts, I gave a steady push on the accellerator and got it to start ! However, as soon as I let go of the gas pedal it would Stall right away !! I tried this again and the same story !!!
I believe that I do have Spark, and the Fuel Pump is working due to the fact that it will run as long as it has a steady pressure from the gas pedal !
Please help, and let me know if there is anything else that I should check and/or what the problem may be..... Thanks!!!!!
#2
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you should start by removing the air intake hose and cleaning around the throttle plate with carb cleaner by opening the throttle and cleaning any sludge that is built up behind throttle plate which can cause your symptoms.
#4
Thanks for the quick reply !! I removed the air intake and Flushed with a good amount of carb cleaner.. A good amount of "brown sludge" came out and I continued doing this until I had mostly clear carb cleaner comming out.. I tried to start and it started right away !! I thought that this had cured the problem, but after a few minutes, the hesitation was back and again I could only keep it running if I kept it at 2k or higher... And even then something seemed to keep "choaking" the engine and dropping it down to 1k or below...
Please reply.. I believe that we are on the right track, and I really appreciate the help !!!
Joe... I checked the Basics as you suggested, and didn't find any help there...........Thanks again !!!
Please reply.. I believe that we are on the right track, and I really appreciate the help !!!
Joe... I checked the Basics as you suggested, and didn't find any help there...........Thanks again !!!
#5
UPDATE !!
I couldn't find the cause of the problem (and no other help from this site).. I had to take the car to a service shop for a computer diagonostics check, and the computer said that the problem was the "Idle Air Control"..
I went straight to the auto parts store and purchased an (IAC) for this vehicle.. It is an exact match and was very easy to replace....But..... When I started the car, I had the Same Exact Problem !!!
When idling (in park or drive), I have to keep the tach up to 1500 or above or I watch it "Bounce" up and down until it bounces low enough to Stall the car !!! What could be wrong ????????
Pleeeeeease Help !!!!!!!!!!
I couldn't find the cause of the problem (and no other help from this site).. I had to take the car to a service shop for a computer diagonostics check, and the computer said that the problem was the "Idle Air Control"..
I went straight to the auto parts store and purchased an (IAC) for this vehicle.. It is an exact match and was very easy to replace....But..... When I started the car, I had the Same Exact Problem !!!
When idling (in park or drive), I have to keep the tach up to 1500 or above or I watch it "Bounce" up and down until it bounces low enough to Stall the car !!! What could be wrong ????????
Pleeeeeease Help !!!!!!!!!!
#6
stalling problem
Zapme1,any time that an iac is replaced the new one has to be
reset.The easiest way for the iac to reset is to drive the vehicle
over 60 kph,but if the problem still persists the reason that the
iac failed to start with a continuing problem may be that you have
a vacuum leak at or around the intake manifold or throttle body.Carefully check all vacuum lines,& spray carb cleaner at base
of intake & around plenum.If the idles smooths out when the cleaner is sprayed around the intake the gaskets have to be replaced.
reset.The easiest way for the iac to reset is to drive the vehicle
over 60 kph,but if the problem still persists the reason that the
iac failed to start with a continuing problem may be that you have
a vacuum leak at or around the intake manifold or throttle body.Carefully check all vacuum lines,& spray carb cleaner at base
of intake & around plenum.If the idles smooths out when the cleaner is sprayed around the intake the gaskets have to be replaced.
#7
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take it back to the shop and have them recheck their diagnossis as obviosly they have missed something the shop should have all the equipment needed to find the problem this is your best option at this point.
does the check engine or service engine soon light come on when the engine is running?
does the check engine or service engine soon light come on when the engine is running?
#8
I can't get the car back to the shop until next week, and had hoped to solve this problem sooner.. The diagonostics was a favor and my buddy won't be back until Wed or Thurs next week !!
The instructions with the IAC said to drive above 40mph to reset, but I'm not sure I made it to 60mph.. I will try this shortly !!
Also, it will idle "smooth" sometimes for a short period.. Would it do this with a vacuum leak ?? And if I keep it above 1500 rpm, it's smooth running all the time.. Wouldn't a vacuum leak be seen at this rmp also ??
Thank you all for the quick responses !!!
Note: I'm a Licensed Electrician (25yrs).. If I can help anyone in this field, please let me know !!!!
The instructions with the IAC said to drive above 40mph to reset, but I'm not sure I made it to 60mph.. I will try this shortly !!
Also, it will idle "smooth" sometimes for a short period.. Would it do this with a vacuum leak ?? And if I keep it above 1500 rpm, it's smooth running all the time.. Wouldn't a vacuum leak be seen at this rmp also ??
Thank you all for the quick responses !!!
Note: I'm a Licensed Electrician (25yrs).. If I can help anyone in this field, please let me know !!!!
#9
The 3.1 is notorious for intake gasket leaks and this will cause a large vacuum problem .
As noted, spray around the area with some carburetor cleaner and if the idle picks up, you've found your problem.
The IAC was not likely the problem and the shop should correct your problem at no charge or refund the price of the parts since they did not solve your problem.
Also, my "The Basics" has a link to Autolibrary.org which is an online Chilton manual with plenty of help there .
As noted, spray around the area with some carburetor cleaner and if the idle picks up, you've found your problem.
The IAC was not likely the problem and the shop should correct your problem at no charge or refund the price of the parts since they did not solve your problem.
Also, my "The Basics" has a link to Autolibrary.org which is an online Chilton manual with plenty of help there .
#10
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The computer as you call it(scan tool)said IDLE AIR CONTROL CIRCUIT.Didn't it?This means the IAC motor, wiring,computer and wiring terminals.I replace so many terminals after other folks have attempted a repair it's not even believable,broken wires also.You need to test for power and ground before replacing parts,if it's a sensor you need to check signal return.Look for broken wires near the IAC.You may have to tug on wires to see if they stretch,remove connections and look for female terminals that are spread even the slightest amount.Usually a vacuum leak will cause a fast idle.I just went through this on a freinds 1998 Grand Am for fast idle speed,no codes,it turned out to be a loose female terminal on the tps sensor signal return wire,only visable due to a magnifing glass.The terminal tension felt fine but it was slightly spread changing the voltage occaisionally tricking the PCM.I'm just giving you other avenues to try.