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90 Camry 1/2 Amp drain...where???


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11-12-03, 12:26 PM   #1  
jsflynnnh
90 Camry 1/2 Amp drain...where???

I've a 90 camry sedan.

It is draining about 1/2 amp someplace, but I can't figure out where...

I've disconnected all the fuses, all the main fuses (engine, ac, fi, etc) and disconnected the alternator, still drains.

I've removed and/or checked the trunk and glove light...nothing wrong there...

Carb heater someplace? But that would be shut off by the
engine main fuse....


It's getting really tiresome, removing the battery terminal... Ideas anyone?

[SIZE=4]halp![/SIZE]

 
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11-12-03, 12:38 PM   #2  
The starter?

 
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11-12-03, 05:55 PM   #3  
Clock and/or radio memory? 0.5A sounds about right for these.

 
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11-12-03, 06:06 PM   #4  
did you remove all wires from alternater including the one that bolts on.
what are you using to test draw with?
is there an under hood light?

 
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11-12-03, 08:00 PM   #5  
jsflynnnh
Unplugged all the fuses...the radio's off...no underhood light, removed all the wires from the alternater, including the bolt on one. I realize that a stuck voltage regulator could be feeding it to the alternator, but that's not it...

Haven't considered the starter, if the electromagnet was on, it'd draw 20 amps...

Very odd.... checked the trunk light, removed the bulbs, the glove bulb is out... the clock is tiny, I'd expect about 10 milliamps, not 500...

 
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11-12-03, 08:27 PM   #6  
mike from nj
without looking for my notes, i seem to remember the number of 30 milliamps as the magic number for a draw, anything more--will cause a problem.

you might need to find a wiring diagram, as some cars have unique modules hidden in the weirdest places(stealths come to mind), have you unplugged the ecu (pcm)

what i would do is try unplugging everything in sight.

 
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11-13-03, 02:16 PM   #7  
jsflynnnh
Thanks Mike,

Thirty milliamps seems reasonable, as most car clocks draw 10-20....

I have unplugged everything is sight...I'll try to find a wiring diagram, I agree, there are often hidden modules, say, under the steering column..

I still can't help wonder. Half an amp is a lot...!! That's the same as a stop light... I can't help wondering if there is some sort of heater as is found in some carbs...though this is fi.

What's an ecu? Electronic Ig...if so, ya....all the biggie modules too...

 
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11-13-03, 03:47 PM   #8  
I haven't seen one of these yet, but I've heard that the electric heated seat has a known problem with shorting to ground. Does your model have a heated driver seat?

 
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11-13-03, 04:41 PM   #9  
jsflynnnh
Possibly, I'll have to check tomorrow....good idea.

Thanks

 
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11-14-03, 04:16 PM   #10  
I'm not sure just how you are checking for these draws but there are a few things that you have to watch out for. First, find a way to disable the door jam switch so you can pull fuses without triggering anything. Don't just pull bulbs, they are connected to modules. Now you need to put either a test light or an ammeter between the battery and the cable. Now, the important step is you have to jump across the light or meter with a jumper wire for about 1 minute to let all the timers expire. Now pulling the fuses HAS to locate the problem. The only thing not on a fuse is the alternator and the headlights and they generally will draw more. What's probably happenning is you are triggering something else as you are pulling fuses. Make sure you remove the keys also. You can accept up to about 60 ma but usually 30-50 is normal. Sometimes an alarm or a timer will be the cause.l

 
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11-14-03, 06:13 PM   #11  
mike from nj
desi--- a headlight better have a fuse, most ones i've seen had a few, usually four in total.

 
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11-14-03, 07:25 PM   #12  
I guess you might find that in some imports but as a rule, they're usually on a link.

 
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11-15-03, 12:32 AM   #13  
Your missing something here

Every thing in that car is fused headlites(2 fuses), Alt (usually a 60, 80 or even 100 amp fuse. The only thing not fused is the big starter wire.

There is no factory seat heaters or carb heater. Does it have factory radio. Does it have lighted vanity mirrors

What about an alarm, stereo amp

Key has to out of ign, should draw 40-50 ma

Common thing on this car is trunk lite


Can't use a test lite. Have to use a meter capable of reading ma's


Larry

 
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11-15-03, 06:40 AM   #14  
jsflynnnh
I agree Larry...

I have removed every fuse I could find, one by one, or in some cases two or three by three, pulled out all the biggie box fuses for the Ac, the FI, removed both connections from the alternator, including the bolted main, checked the trunk, removed the bulbes from overhead, and glove compartment, and with a ampmeter between positive battery terminal, and the positive battery connecter, I still get about 475 milliamps draw, enough to drain the battery in one to two days.

It has a radio, and that goes on and off, there is no separet fuse for it..

There is no alarm system, or stereo amp....

But your comment about the key in the ignition is interesting....

The ignition on this car is such that I no longer really need a key to start it, a screwdriver will work. I do use the key though, out of habit, and it's there, on the chain...sooo..

question: could the broken ingition key be somehow drawing?

And where would I disconnect the igniton, it is an interesting point, is the ignition fused, or just the big fuseable link?

 
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11-15-03, 07:39 AM   #15  
The radio uses two fuses , radio #1 under dash and radio #2 under the hood. Not sure if it was '90 or '91 had a problem with radio's shorting out(some even went on fire!)

There is a switch thats on the key that sends a signal the key in the ignition. A small switch that might have a green/blue stripe wire on lock cylinder.

Larry

 
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11-15-03, 07:45 AM   #16  
Also if I remember correctly this has a delay on the dome light. Dosen't matter if the dome light is off, the timer is still going to go run and takes 15-30 sec to shut off.

If you open the door you have to wait and watch the amp meter while things power down.

Larry

 
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