I'm a virgin........pulling a 3.5L engine


Old 11-13-03, 08:33 PM
Salmonslammer I
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I'm a virgin........pulling a 3.5L engine

Well I have done about everything on cars except this. I have a dead cylinder on a 95 intrepid and am going to swap motors out until I rebuild the one that is in it, early next year. (another first) I am using a Haynes manual and so far everything is coming along fine.

I have gotten everything off except the trans, and am planning on tackeling that on monday.

My question is....where should I pick the motor from??? I haven't found anything about it in the manual. The engine in the car has the air intake plenium off and I was thinking about putting in a couple of eyebolts in the mounting holes, but am worried about not having it hooked up straight and binding on the tranny when I pull it out.

Any insight or helpfull hints on this project???
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Old 11-13-03, 09:01 PM
mike from nj
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what went bad on the engine?
which cylinder is dead and what caused it?

plugs and wires fix most problems, if not, then a leaking intake manifold will cause a rough idle.

unbolt the trans completely, then put the intake plenum back on, there should be mounting hooks on either side if i remember correctly, put a floor jack with a block of wood under the front of the trans to hold it level.

i wouldn't use the intake mounting holes, they are small and might pull out.
Old 11-14-03, 05:57 AM
Salmonslammer I
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Not sure what caused it mike. I am getting 150-155psi on all of the cylinders except the #2, which is @ 100psi.

I was driving the car home from work, doing about 60mph, when I started hearing a loud knocking sound coming from the L side. I babyed it home the last 3 miles. I had been hearing a slight knocking sound for a couple of days prior to this. Thing is when it was cold started it was fine, by the time I got to work(28miles) I would hear the faint ticking sound. The car ran fine before this, no problems at all.

This car was flipped to me by a local mechanic. His wife gave me a song and dance during the deal, and I didn't know it till I got the title in my hands.

When I pulled the valve covers, the R side has all new rocker arms on it. The L side looks like it has 70K on it. I have tried to talk to this guy about 12 times, either in person or on the phone, to find out what he did to it, but he won't talk to me.

I'm not sure what is causing the knocking yet, I was hoping it was a bad rocker arm, but no luck there. Has to be something deeper. Bad Cam maybe??? Rod bearings?? sounds like it is in the top 1/2 though.

Thanks for the info! I'll let you know how it turns out.
Old 11-14-03, 02:23 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boynton Beach Florida
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OK, first of all, an engine will not miss because of only having 100 lbs compression. It's unlikely you would even notice that problem. What ever is wrong with that engine can be fixed in the car. Nothing in the lower end is causing that. The previous owner may have blown a timing belt and bent some valves. If that's the case, you only have to remove the heads but you at least need to investigate further when the engine is still assembled. You won't be able to diagnose anything with it all apart.
Old 11-14-03, 02:33 PM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 2,417
Please pull the plug from #2 cylinder and tell us what it looks like.I'm a curious type,pull a couple more too and compare them.The knocking noise is why I'm curious.
Old 11-14-03, 06:00 PM
mike from nj
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3.5L valves don't hit when the belt breaks, or else i would have had 200 engines apart already.

first thing i would do is a leakdown test to see where the low compression is going, you probably wouldn't feel a 100psi cylinder as dead.

the noise is what bothers me, especially after someone already replaced all the rockers(which means all new lifters) if you have a bad enough rod bearing, it will allow the piston to smack the cylinder head, and cause a good loud noise from the top of the engine, which has been mistaken as a bad lifter before(not by me of course)

maybe pull the pan and look for the classic metal pile in the bottom, and the #2 rod to have like 1/4" of slop.
the pan comes out in the vehicle easy, just take out the middle sway bar mounts and push the bar all the way back.

another thing, is driving the car through a flood, water sucked in the intake will bend a connecting rod, resulting in lower compression in that cylinder only, as well as the bottom of the piston hitting the crankshaft throws and shaving nice marks in the piston. this is easily seen from the bottom.

either way, start with a leakdown test with that piston on TDC, and go from there, i always like to diagnose a noise before i rip an engine completely apart.
Old 11-15-03, 05:47 AM
Salmonslammer I
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I have to work all W/E but I'll be back at it on monday.

The plugs all look normal, even new, since I only got 2k out of the car before this happened. Whatever it is it is not a missing problem, it is a serious engine knock. Don't believe it is a lifter either, way too loud for that. I'll try to get it into the local shop for a leakdown test early next week. I bought an oil pan gasket yesterday so I will pull the pan and look at that #2 cylinder, I think that there is a connection between the low PSI and the knocking. Just need to figure out what it is!!!

BTW, the car hasn't been in a flood either, at least not while I have been driving it. Ran fine before this started.

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