Do I need to pull 1/2 shafts when pulling engine??


Old 11-19-03, 10:38 AM
Salmonslammer I
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Do I need to pull 1/2 shafts when pulling engine??

Almost there...... 95 Intrepid w/ a 3.5L, Went to unbolt the T/C, first bolt came out fine. When I went to rotate the engine to get to the next bolt, no dice.

I was reading through the haynes manual under the trans section that you have to pull the shafts before rotating the T/C. Anyway around this without having to add another project to the list???
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Old 11-19-03, 10:48 AM
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1/2 shafts...

...of the gazillion engines i've removed, i've never had to remove 1/2 shafts...unless the entire drivetrain comes out as a unit (and even then the suspension and half shafts come out with it and then you separate the engine from trans on the floor) your manual carefully, some cars work this way. as for removing half shafts to rotate the engine to remove T/C bolts....nah...i've had more transmissions out than engines, and never have we had to do that. why are you replacing the engine anyway? is it seized? you won't turn it if that's the'll probably have to pull the converter with the engine, if you have space, and that is WAY messy...
Old 11-19-03, 12:40 PM
Salmonslammer I
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It developed a loud, what I believe to be, rodknock a couple of weeks ago. Pulled the top 1/2 and everything seems to be in order. No problems with the rockers, springs or cams that I can detect. Drained the oil thru a seive yesterday and didn't find any metal in there either, so I am kindda stumped right now. The right side of the engine was rebuilt, but not the left. The car was flipped to me by a mechanic.

I have another engine that I am going to drop in, hopefully, till I can get around to rebuilding the other 1/2 of my original engine, which won't be till Feb. or so. Keep plugging along at it. What a pain!!
Old 11-19-03, 02:23 PM
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Please use the reply button to keep your post on the same car together.You may have to pull the oil pan to disconnect a bad connecting rod or 2 judging from your other post.This should allow you to rotate the engine and remove the bolts.
Old 11-19-03, 09:50 PM
mike from nj
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according to the manual then, you'd have to pull the axles to start the engine, as the t/c is always spinning when the engine is idling!

axles must come out if the trans is coming out, not for the engine.

something is locking up somewhere, and preventing it from turning(the engine), try putting a breaker bar on the front crankshaft bolt and try turning it either way.

i would try everything before removing the engine with a t/c still attached, you will have 3-4 quarts of trans fluid on the floor in no time flat!

now you know why that manual was so cheap, you have to pay more money for the correct information, or anything relevant or useful.

let us know how it turns out
Old 11-20-03, 05:26 AM
Salmonslammer I
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Well after digging out the 1/2 breaker bar, I got it to move. All else fails, get a bigger tool!!I got the T/C bolts off without any problem. Only have to pull the mounts now, Then the real fun begins!! Any words of advice on getting the new engine lined up?? That scares me!!!

I agree mike, I would much rather have a factory service manual. Way more information, way more $$. Ya get what you pay for, thats for sure. Thanks for the info guys.. I'll let you know what happens.
Old 11-20-03, 11:56 PM
mike from nj
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(i learned this from someone whose name i can't mention anymore---currently banned)

try this address, it's only one year different and should be close enough for what you're doing, plus you will need it for when you have to set the cams in the rebuilt engine you're doing, there is a very specific procedure to line the backs up.

make sure the crank sensor is out or it can sometimes get broken.

also, if you are having difficulty putting the engine in, don't jamb stuff together, or you will bend the sensor tone ring on the flywheel, then you will be chasing a performance problem down for sure!!!

i like to jack the front of the trans all the way up, and line the two lowest bellhousing bolts up first, then drop the engine into the mounts.

try to maintain the flywheel with the car, different years have different openings, which are extremely critical.

you did take the radiator and condensor out, right?
Old 11-21-03, 09:20 PM
Salmonslammer I
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Thanks for the link Mike, got a bid in on it now. Any sources for those cam locks?? Dealer maybe??

I got the engine out yesterday with out too much problem, and yes, I pulled the rad and condenser. Didn't have time to work on it today. I did find metal shavings in the pan, not alot, but enough.

Like you said, now I am running into the problem of the flywheel being different. Seems my original one is different, or they may have bolted up the flywheel in a different configuration. Haven't looked at it too hard yet, but it doesn't look the same. How hard is it to swap them??? Any seals or is it pretty straight forward?? The original one was a 95, the replacement motor is a 96.

BTW...What do the white paint marks on the flywheel bolts indicate. Both motors have them (on 2 of the bolts) so I figured that it must be a factory thing.

Thanks for the tip on pulling that crank sensor. I would have wasted it for sure!!
Old 11-21-03, 09:27 PM
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Banned or left? The way I understood it, Joe left. BTW not saying his name is ridiculous after all he did for this board
Old 11-23-03, 12:21 AM
mike from nj
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kurt, i agree that not mentioning his name is weird, but that's the way the big moderators want it. (i'm sure the argument got plenty messy) "I" don't always agree with rules in general, but "I" usually follow them. have you read his profile? that should clear things up. and "all he did for this board" was equally bad as was good.

slammer----use your original flywheel (actually called a flexplate) the 96 is an OBDII car/engine and way way different. i would say the car might never start with that flexplate. 8 bolts out, 8 bolts in, you'll also be staring right at the rear main seal, it's your decision to replace it now. maybe use a little sealer on the bolts too, and they better be tight, paint marks mean nothing.

you will only need those cam locking plates if you loosen the front cam bolts, a simple timing belt replacement doesn't need them. they are dealer only too, maybe leave a big deposit with a friendly dealer, i've done this before. however, this is far in the future for you.
Old 11-23-03, 07:06 AM
Salmonslammer I
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Thanks Mike!!!! I will replace that rear main as well, since it is right there. Hate to get it all back together and find a rear main leak in 2 months. That would bite.

Know anything about those trans sensors?? In the past, on 3 seperate occasions, when I was "getting on it" from a slow roll to merge with traffic the trans would not shift out of second. If I flip the ignition off and back on it works fine. The rest of the time, under normal driving, it has works fine. This leads me to believe that it is something electronic that is failing, at least part time. Any ideas?? Figured I would try to solve this too before I slap it together. The trans was recently rebuilt, or so I was told. Only thing that looked new to me was the 1/2 shafts and the cv boots.
Old 11-23-03, 09:35 PM
mike from nj
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it could be anything, anything electronic that is, or even mechanical too. you should have pulled fault codes from the trans computer before you unhooked the battery (that sounds familiar, doesn't it).

those 2 sensors you are looking at didn't start failing until 1999-2000. i guess they were the last things on the trans they could redesign and cause new problems pop up.

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