1990 chevy Cavalier Z24

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  #1  
Old 11-21-03, 11:05 AM
Diablodmm
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Angry 1990 chevy Cavalier Z24

I just bought a 1990 chevy Z24 for a good price but finding minor things wrong with it. Whats stumping me is that the car drives like a champ. That 3.1L V-6 has got some zip for how old it is. However, when the car comes to a stop,(like making a turn) the RPM's drop below 1000 and the car wants to stall. It just had a tune-up and like I said when driving it doesn't miss a beat. I hit the gas and the power is right there with no stutter whats so ever. But when I stop it wants to stall almost every time. I know that the car is fuel injected so no carborator but people keep telling me there is still an idol screw which can be adjusted. If this is true does anyone have any idea where this screw might be. I was thinking that is was the injector so I put in one of those gas treatment to clean them. I'm just kind of at a loss, any advice would be great at this point!
 
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  #2  
Old 11-21-03, 01:30 PM
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The screw is not for idle speed.It is the minimum air rate adjustment screw.Have you checked for codes yet?You could try cleang the throttle plate in the throttle body and possibly remove and clean the idle air control valve.When the valve is out check the hole it goes in for being clogged.Don't be tempted to plug the iac valve in to see if it works uninstalled or you will need a new one for sure.Has the battery been dead and or replaced?If it has you need to perform an idle learn procedure on the car.#1Turn the a/c off,apply the brake and block the drive wheels,start the car and place it in drive.#2 Let the car run in drive until the cooling fan cycles once or ten minutes have passed.Turn the car off for at least 5 seconds.#3 Start the car shift into drive and idle for 5 minutes.Idle learn is now done.
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-03, 01:38 PM
darrell McCoy
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likely a torque converter problem. There have been several TSB's on this model car.
 
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Old 11-21-03, 06:16 PM
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Yes if it stalls after it warms up, coming to a stop in drive, is could be a torque convertor problem. Does the engine start right back up? And then stall again after putting in gear? Or will it just die, even if it's in neutral or park? If it's the latter, it isn't the torque convertor. It could also be an idle learn issue, this needs to be done after EVERY battery disconnect or dead battery with this particular engine.
 
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Old 11-21-03, 06:26 PM
doclove
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Hi.Both are good answers but the torque convertor is not usually a at every stop type problem.I agree with DAVO.You should clean the throttlebody and perform the idle relearn as he said,but before you do it disconnect the battery for at least 10 secounds.If that does not fix it you could have a bad IAC valve,maybe a EGR problem.If the problem occures after driving at a steady high speed and when you come to a stop and it feels like you did not push your clutch and dies look at TCC solenoid.Let us know.Rick
 
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Old 11-21-03, 10:42 PM
Diablodmm
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forgot to mention

yea I will try all that stuff but the problem i forgot to mention is that the majority of the time i cannot keep it running at idle without working the throttle a little to keep the RPM's above 1000. It doesn't like to sit at idle really at all. Sometimes it will idle but usually i have to keep light constant pressure on the gas peddle so it wont stall. This presents a problem when trying to preform those tests.
 
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Old 11-22-03, 03:43 AM
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Ahhhhh, this is not a TCC problem.
Remove the air inlet duct, take a wire tooth brush, open the throttle blades, spray some carb clean in there(engine not running), and brush out all the carbon. Then, disconnect the battery and try the relearn procedure again.
 
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Old 11-22-03, 07:47 AM
Diablodmm
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Thanks you guys

You guys are amazing. I got up this morning and did that learn procedure with little hope on the horizon, but slap me silly it worked! The car is holding at a steady idle all the time. I took it for a test drive and it didn't act like it wanted to stall even once. Pulled it right in the garage, let it idle, shut it off/turned it back on and every time it had the results i was looking for. Now should i still clean the throttle plate? If this will help with the life and preformance of the way the car is acting right now I'm all for it. Is the easiest way to clean this through the air cleaner. Actually is this the best way? I am really grateful you guys cause I baught this car out of despiration for my girlfriend who's car went down the crapper and she kinda breathing down my neck, and I sure everybody can relate with that. Seriously all you guys are a life saver, thanks!

Dave M, Michigan
 
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Old 11-22-03, 08:30 AM
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Dave, if it's running well, don't touch it!
 
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Old 11-22-03, 09:37 AM
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Glad it's fixed and for free,can't beat that.
 
  #11  
Old 11-22-03, 11:18 AM
Diablodmm
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why

yea guys I left the car sit for a few hours and now its back to square one. It wont even let me idle in drive to try the learn procedure again. I know it asking alot but anybody got any more idea's?
 
  #12  
Old 11-22-03, 01:04 PM
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It's time to clean that throttle body and IAC. Get a can of Spray carb cleaner and an old tooth brush. Have somebody hold the accelerator to the floor (engine off of course). With the snorkel removed spray and clean all the black junk from the back of the throttle plate and the housing around it. You can also remove the IAC with the 2 bolts that hold it on. The spray into the 2 holes and clean that out also. When finished, spray the inside real good with WD40 or equilivent. Reassemble, disconnect battery for a minute or two and perform the re-learn procedure again.
 
  #13  
Old 11-23-03, 07:43 AM
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It is what we call an intermittant condition. Sometimes it fails, other times it is okay.
Typically someone will say, "well it does it all the time", but upon further pressing of the issue, if asked, "did it do it today on the way to the dealership?" The answer alot of the time is..."no".
We go nuts with these....'intermittants'.
 
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