Starter Solenoid -fender mount

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  #1  
Old 12-01-03, 08:16 PM
fourlaker
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Starter Solenoid -fender mount

I have had 3 starter solenoids installed on my restored 1986 Lincoln Town Car in the last 3 years: 1 by the Lincoln Dealer, 1 by me, 1 by an independent mechanic. My problem: none of the solenoids would work when the temperature got to 40 degrees or below. I can use a screwdriver and place it on both screws and it will start. Where can I find a starter solenoid that is not affected by cold weather?
 
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  #2  
Old 12-01-03, 08:46 PM
mike from nj
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are you jumping from big screw to big screw, or big screw to little screw? which wire colors are involved?
 
  #3  
Old 12-02-03, 07:03 AM
carguyinva's Avatar
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sounds like...

...an ignition switch problem to me...when it's cold, try disconnecting the small wire at the solenoid going from the small wire to ground with a voltmeter and see what voltage you get...i bet it's low...it may even be low above 40 degrees but have enough to pull the solenoid plunger...it should be very close to battery voltage
 
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Old 12-02-03, 03:28 PM
fourlaker
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Starter Solenoid on fender

Hey Mike!

I use the two big screws to jump. Sparks really fly so there is a lot of current flowing. Also, if I drive anywhere it cranks every time that day (I guess the warm motor is the reason for this.
Thanks for your help.
John
 
  #5  
Old 12-02-03, 05:00 PM
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The reason you are getting all of the sparks is because you are sending raw battery power directly to the starter. You should be jumping from the large post to the small post. Try what carguy suggested and see what that nets you and post back and let us know what you get. You may be frying the solenoids yourself by doing this.
Billy
 
  #6  
Old 12-05-03, 08:26 AM
fourlaker
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Hey Carguy!

Finally got somone to check out the ignition problem with the small screw and to ground. They got a reading of 13.2 volts.
Tihs is a brand new battery and that's the reading I got when I put red wire on voltmeter on the positive post of the battery and black wire on voltmeter to ground. Also there is a brand new ignition unit on the car. I guess I'm spooked. Put up six strands of brand new icicyle lights on my house for Christmas and would you believe that they all burn in the daytime but for the last three nights six of the drop down icicycles don't burn at night but burn fine in the daytime.

Thanks for your help.
fourlaker
 
  #7  
Old 12-05-03, 03:09 PM
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Seeing that this is a restored Lincoln were the body grounds cleaned of paint and reconnected?You are saying the ignition switch has been replaced. I ask because you say ignition unit and figure you may mean the ignition module.Did you get 13.2 volts at that small wire all the time or just while cranking the engine?The wire could be corroded or contacts burnt in the switch and still read 13.2 volts.You need to check for voltage drop on a live electrically loaded circuit.That will confirm the circuits ability to provide current.If your helper doesn't know how to do it let us know.
 
  #8  
Old 12-05-03, 04:13 PM
fourlaker
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Hey guys!

Ignition module replaced last May by Lincoln Dealer.
No paint where groud wire is attached.
I got 13 .2 volts without cranking.

Thanks to all of you for your posts. They are very helpful in helping to isolate my problem.

fourlaker
 
  #9  
Old 12-05-03, 05:38 PM
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Have you replaced the IGNITION SWITCH?or not?You have a power or ground problem and we need you to do our tests to help you.carguyinva was telling you to test the ignition switch operation but 13.2 with out cranking doesn't jive so to speak.That wire(the little one)should only have voltage in the crank position.Unless you are testing the wrong wire.Please let us know.
 
  #10  
Old 12-05-03, 05:49 PM
fourlaker
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Thanks Davo!

I will get the ignition switch replaced and have the other small wire tested. There were two small wires so I must have tested the wrong one. Will get back to youall. Thanks a bunch!
fourlaker
 
  #11  
Old 12-05-03, 07:44 PM
mike from nj
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i think what they're trying to tell you, is to take the voltmeter, place black to ground, and the red to the small wire on the solenoid. it should be receiving full battery voltage when attempting to crank the engine. whether it does or not will tell you (and us) if the problem is the ignition switch or another solenoid.
 
  #12  
Old 12-10-03, 08:03 AM
fourlaker
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Hello to all of you and thanks.

I had the ignition switch replaced and "eureka", all is well.

Dang, you guys hit the nail on the head. Solenoid was fine according to mechanic that replaced the ignition switch. Cranks every time, hot or cold.

Thanks again for all your help. Merry Christmas to all.

Fourlaker
 
  #13  
Old 12-10-03, 02:44 PM
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Glad the folks on the site could help.Tell your freinds about us we always welcome new posters.Merry Christmas to you also.
 
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