Power Liftgate
#1

Help,
My Chrysler Town & Country minivan (2002) power liftgate is giving me fits. It will not open most of the time. It will always power close. When I try to open it with either the remote or button inside, it just beeps and kicks up a bit, then stops. The hydraulic lifts seem to be plenty strong. If I pull up on the door as it trys to open it still shuts down. I checked the gear mechanism for loose bolts, etc, and lubed it all. It worked repeatedly for that afternoon. The next day, same old nothing. Could it bee the timing of the release at the base of the door? I sprayed that with lube, to no avail. Any sugesstions? I am over 50,000 miles and out of warranty on such items.
Thanks,
John
My Chrysler Town & Country minivan (2002) power liftgate is giving me fits. It will not open most of the time. It will always power close. When I try to open it with either the remote or button inside, it just beeps and kicks up a bit, then stops. The hydraulic lifts seem to be plenty strong. If I pull up on the door as it trys to open it still shuts down. I checked the gear mechanism for loose bolts, etc, and lubed it all. It worked repeatedly for that afternoon. The next day, same old nothing. Could it bee the timing of the release at the base of the door? I sprayed that with lube, to no avail. Any sugesstions? I am over 50,000 miles and out of warranty on such items.
Thanks,
John
#2
there's two motors on this system. one is the big obvious one that lifts the door up. the second is the 'cinching' motor inside the latch. as the door closes, and is within 1/2 inch of being closed, the latch touches and the cinching motor pulls the door all the way closed.
if the door isn't popping all the way clear of the cinching contacts, it will reclose the door.
you could have worn rubber pads, the ones that pop the door up enough to let the main motor take over. you could have worn prop rods, but both would have to be shot, as it will still work on just one good one.
did you try pulling up real hard and pop the hatch and see if it clears the cinching motor?
there is also a reprogram for the module, it will fix this description of a problem:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
When opening the PSD and/or PLG using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE), overhead console switch, or B pillar switch, the PSD and/or PLG may “pop off” but not power open. The power close feature will operate as designed.
(psd=power sliding door)
(plg=power liftgate)
the new software i guess fixes this problem, i haven't done it yet or even seen a problem with this system yet. i remember at school the instructor making it a point to let us know that the rubber bumpers will cause a problem when they get worn.
let us know what you find
if the door isn't popping all the way clear of the cinching contacts, it will reclose the door.
you could have worn rubber pads, the ones that pop the door up enough to let the main motor take over. you could have worn prop rods, but both would have to be shot, as it will still work on just one good one.
did you try pulling up real hard and pop the hatch and see if it clears the cinching motor?
there is also a reprogram for the module, it will fix this description of a problem:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
When opening the PSD and/or PLG using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE), overhead console switch, or B pillar switch, the PSD and/or PLG may “pop off” but not power open. The power close feature will operate as designed.
(psd=power sliding door)
(plg=power liftgate)
the new software i guess fixes this problem, i haven't done it yet or even seen a problem with this system yet. i remember at school the instructor making it a point to let us know that the rubber bumpers will cause a problem when they get worn.
let us know what you find