brake question

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  #1  
Old 12-11-03, 05:43 AM
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Location: Indiana (formerly Massachusetts)
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brake question

hi

i have a 94 olds cutlass supreme convertible 3.1 6 cylinder. I have been trying to do my own work as funds are tight. I needed a brake job. I got the rotors, pads and two rear calipers from local auto parts store. I had never done a brake job before but I have a book that shows the steps. I had a little trouble bleeding the brake lines in the front because I almost rounded off the nut heads but I think I was able to bleed them correctly.

So here is the problem: They have squealed since I put them in a year ago especially at slow speeds. I used plenty of anti-squeal compound but they still squeal. I was going to just live with the noise but now there is a new noise: the left front seems to squeal at slow speeds when the brake pedal is not depressed. They squeal once a second as if there is a high spot on the rotor.

I took apart the brakes and everything seems fine but you are talking about a guy with no brake experience.

My guess is that the rotor is warped and probably was not great quality when I bought it.

What do you think? Do you think it is bad parts or does it have something to do with bad bleed job or incorrect installation?

thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 12-11-03, 09:09 AM
bubinga1
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the left front seems to squeal at slow speeds when the brake pedal is not depressed.
Does the noise go away when the brakes are applied?
If so sounds like a wear sensor is touching the rotor.
Have a look at the pads again.

When you change front pads there is no real reason to bleed the system. Only if you loosen a brake line.
Even if you replace the rear wheel cylinders, you should not have to bleed the fronts.
Also when you change ft pads, brake lube should be installed anywhere there is metal to metal contact between the pads and the calipiar.
Also lube the rubber bushing where the slide pins go through.
Don't use "anti sieze" on the rubber bushings!
That will freeze the rubber "O" rings up quicker than anything else. Use a silicone brake lube.

Even though the rear brakes are "self adjusting" they never keep the rear shoes adjusted 100%. I like to adjust mine about every 10,000 miles. Just don't adjust them too tight either.
I like to adjust them till there is a slight drag, then back them off a click or 2.

Thanks, Tony D.
 
  #3  
Old 12-11-03, 09:38 AM
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hi tony

thanks for the reply.

Yes, the noise goes away when the brakes are applied or if I am going over say 15 MPH. However, when I depress the brake pedal, a new sound takes over- constant squealing. Again, only at slow speeds.

I pulled off the wheel and looked at the pads and the sensor is about 3/4 of an inch from making contact with the rotor so I don't think it is the sensor.

So we are back to the noise problem again:

At slow speeds I hear a slight squeak or rubbing noise at regular intervals that seem to correspond with one revolution of the rotor.

As I speed up, the noise disappears.

When applying the brake, the noise changes to a constant squeal at low speeds and light braking.

Any thoughts?

thanks
 
  #4  
Old 12-11-03, 06:38 PM
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Location: Boynton Beach Florida
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A lot of that squeeling may have something to do with the quality of brake pads you bought. Cheaper pads tend to be more succeptable to that. Squeel can be caused by a vast number of different things. It is the most problemsome thing in doing disc brakes. Every tech has his own little things that have worked for him. It won't hurt anything. It's just an annoyance.
 
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