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1969 Galaxie 500


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12-12-03, 02:23 PM   #1  
speedup
1969 Galaxie 500

Hello I am new to this so bare with me. I have a 1969 Galaxie 500 390 4bbl I bought it a few weeks ago to restore it does not need a lot of work but my problem is it will not start. I have changed the carburator to stock (rebuilt) I have a new starter relay new ignition coil, plugs, points, rotor, cap. it turns over GREAT it fires until I let off the starter then dies. The fuel pump is working fine. Any Ideas ? I was told from the guy I bought it from it had not run in about a year.

 
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12-12-03, 02:52 PM   #2  
Great old Classic

Hi speedup

Great catch .

The cars & trucks I work on fall between 1967 to 1972. Many have not been run in years. Some things like fuel & lubricants need changed & their containers cleaned as well.

Plastic wiring & ends need to be replaced with modern copies this includes coils, points etc.

I find what may have long since decayed & replace it all,
that would be step #1 in any good atempt to stablize our
old Cars & Trucks, for our driving safety.

There are a lot of us out here who would rather drive a
1969 C/10 Chevy truck than a 2004 Silverado .

My speciality is Chevrolet. I do tend to rubber neck them all. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder & old Cars and Trucks
are beautiful in many ways. It's a shame we lost that.

 
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12-12-03, 03:01 PM   #3  
boflaade
Also the newer types of gas have no shelf-life. If the gas in the car is over six months old then refresh it. The new types of gas also leave a residue. With a rebuilt carb you are okay there but how about the fuel pump. Maybe take it off and use a bit of carb clean. It sounds like it's starving for fuel so maybe the fuel pump is not quite 100%.

 
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12-12-03, 03:35 PM   #4  
speedup
Good ideas I should tell you I also have droped the fuel tank and cleaned it all new fuel lines and filters. I have not changed the pump I just tested it by turning over the engine and letting it flow into a gas can so I thought it was fine. You are right about it sounding like it is starving for fuel, so maybe I will just replace the pump I have done just about everything else I will double check my conections also. Thanks

 
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12-12-03, 05:30 PM   #5  
Sounds like there is something wrong with the ignition power. Put a test light on the positive side of the coil(not the one going to the dist), you should have power with the key on.

Sounds like it's running on the resistor bypass(it gives a full 12v to the coil to start and shuts off when the starter stops)

 
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12-12-03, 05:39 PM   #6  
You know your Ps & Qs

If I may there is a very nice Carter Electric Street/Strip for a very good price. Used with a fuel pressure Adj unit @ 3 psi it does a fine job of supplying a steady supply of fuel for any engine aplication.

I mount them inside the frame using aluminim 3/8 fuel with only 2 rubber lines for vibration areas. Aeroquip makes the line fittings for a good safe instalation. Most times I can come over the top of the trans & up the middle to avoid any hot spots near the line around the engine manifolds.

What are your compression readings with throttle full wide open? Do you here any poping or trying to start at all? Have you taken a VC off to verify valve action? Most important is how the Client said it ran before it was put away.

Stay with checking the basics & I'm confidant you will find the problem/problems in due order. Did you get the Car from the original owner? Did the paper, work repair & maintance records come with the car?

 
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12-12-03, 05:54 PM   #7  
Are you saying that it actually runs until you let off of the ignition switch? If that is so then you have some wires crossed somewhere. On a carbuteted engine you dont need but 7psi of fuel pressure for it to run. It may starve when throttled, but it will run.
Also give us some more details. What engine in this car?
Billy

 
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12-12-03, 06:08 PM   #8  
OK, sounds like none of these guys are old enough for these cars. All cars with points are designed to start on 12 volts and run on 8. The coils power supply runs direct from the ignition switch when in start position. When released to run position, it runs through a resistor to reduce the voltage to 8 volts. GM products use a white resister wire. I'm not positive about Fords but I think they use an actual white porcelan resister mounted under the hood somewhere. If you can find it try jumping across it to see if it runs. If all else fails, just run another wire from the ignition switch "run" terminal through a resistor to the coil.

 
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12-12-03, 06:09 PM   #9  
You write that "it turns over and fires until I let off the starter".
Please clarify: does the engine actually run until you return the key from the Start position to On position; or does it turn over with the starter engaged as long as you hold the key in the Start position?

 
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12-12-03, 06:19 PM   #10  
Re: 1969 Galaxie 500

Originally posted by speedup
it turns over GREAT it fires until I let off the starter then dies.
He was clear, I understood him just fine.

 
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12-12-03, 06:29 PM   #11  
speedup
You all are good so many ideas this is great first of all I should say I think it is running it does blow out the exhaust it sounds as though it is running , but when I let off the key it stops. It is the 390 4bbl. The guy I bought it from is the second owner he told me it was running but needed the carb rebuilt it had a Edelbrock 750, I bought a rebuilt motorcraft for it. I will try all these ideas in the morning it seems like it is so close to running. Thanks for all the help.

 
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12-12-03, 07:00 PM   #12  
Run a jumper wire from the battery positive to the positive side of the coil.Crank it see if it stays running,if it stays running the ignition switch or the resistor or related wiring is faulty.By the way since you are new to this do you know how to set points?You also don't mention mileage on the beast maybe you have a timing chain problem.

 
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12-12-03, 07:54 PM   #13  
A good understanding of the basics.

Speedup said:
I should tell you I also have droped the fuel tank and cleaned it all new fuel lines and filters.

When you said this I knew you understood more than the avarage parts changers. I am semi retired after over 3 decades of making the Money to raise a Family, by repairing Motorcycles & Porsche automobiles.

The old Trucks & cars were what I drove to work in, & enjoyed working on. You would not believe how many would not think to remove the fuel tank for a complete cleaning & lining if needed.

I m not a service Tech but a Mechanic. By any other name if you do not understand how it works, you become a parts changer. A poor second place to a Master Mechanic. You sound like a fellow Mechanic who is asking for a second opinion, & that's good. That is team work & one smart Mechanic in my big book.

The truth is no one can fix a Machine over the phone or now the Internet. You have recieved some good info here on this thread, & you responded to questions calmly when asked the same answered questions twice. Patience is indeed a virture my Friend.

In order to provide you or anyone with the best guesses & that's all we can do, we must read the whole thread over & over again if needed.

Just like many of the classic Cars & Trucks there are clubs & forums on the Galaxie 500. In the end an internal combustion Engine is no different because it's called a Ford or Chevy.

Best of luck to you in your task, I have every confidence you will find the problem very soon. Oh 1 more thing, the feeling of paying a little more for fuel & being surrounded by heavy metal today, it's a high that can't be matched with the plastic Model cars of today.


Last edited by marturo; 12-12-03 at 09:50 PM.
 
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12-12-03, 09:04 PM   #14  
bubinga1
On Target

Run a jumper wire from the battery positive to the positive side of the coil.Crank it see if it stays running,if it stays running the ignition switch or the resistor or related wiring is faulty.
This is what you want to do.
Chrysler products used to do this and it was the ballast resistor.

I am not sure about ford, I think it may be a resistor wire, But I think davo is on the right track here.

Also make sure points are set to about .016-.017.
and that the timing is close.
You should be able to set the timing while you are cranking it.
Thanks, Tony D.

 
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12-12-03, 11:03 PM   #15  
OK, sounds like none of these guys are old enough for these cars.

Fords use a resistor wire thats in the harness. The replacement is run outside the harness.

 
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12-13-03, 09:34 AM   #16  
Just my point of view.

Hello toyotaman11769

You quoted a poster: "OK, sounds like none of these guys are old enough for these cars."

I own 4 Cars & Trucks at age 52. All have Mallory Points & I saw that statement also. I ignored the statement due to it's non help to the orignial poster, who really owns this thread.

Only when MODs ignore the worthless & focus on helping the Thread starter can we truly be of help. How do we know that Desi501 is old enough or even drives a point type car today?

We don't, so by starting a post with a put down only ruins anything else that poster has to say. As a MOD I would just remove that one statement & leave the rest. After all my Son is already a Master Mechanic at 27 & drives a 1970 restored by him C/10 Chevrolet. I believe he is old enough for these Cars & Trucks.

In fact I am very happy to see that many young People, Male & Female are restoring these wonderful examples of the American Automobile Glory days. Other than a few remarks I believe Member speedup, was well served on this thread.

My e-mail is [email protected] that's where anyone can write me, if they want to say anything not for Public consumtion.

BTW toyotaman11769 I have high reguards for you as a Moderator. I also have opinions & will state them from time to time, as the rules permit.

This Automotive Forum can become the crown jewel of DIY only if it is run 180 degrees from the way it was run. I learned a lifetimes worth of knowledge from both older & younger Mechanics, just by listening to what they had to teach me. No one can know it all & that's why team work was such an important part of life in the shop.

 
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12-13-03, 10:38 AM   #17  
speedup
I want to thank everyone for the help I will not have time to work on the car this weekend (the wife told me) So I will get back to you all the first of next week and let you know how things are progressing. Thanks

 
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12-13-03, 11:12 AM   #18  
OK, my comment wasn't meant derrogatory in any way. I was just having some fun with you guys and poking fun at my own age at the same time. Believe me, I spent many, many years dealing with points. I don't think Toyotaman took it bad and he obviously knows what I'm talking about with the resistor wire reply. He's the only one that didn't get off on stale fuel and ignition switches in the early replies. He's always pretty accurate.

OH, an Marturo, I didn't read anything in any of your posts that helped him with his problem in any way.

 
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12-13-03, 02:15 PM   #19  
BBman
I may be mistaken but power for the coils on the old fords comes from the solinoid "I" terminal while cranking and from the ignition switch through a resistor wire while running or key on. so it may be the switch, the resistor wire, or the switch may have a seprate feed for ignition from a fusible link. Do not perminantly bypass the resistor wire.

 
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12-13-03, 03:43 PM   #20  
bubinga1
Do not perminantly bypass the resistor wire.
Right, that will burn your points up.

 
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