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Starter Solenoid -fender mount


fourlaker's Avatar
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12-21-03, 12:46 PM   #1  
fourlaker
Starter Solenoid -fender mount

Hello to all!

Yeah, it's me again. I'm the one with the 1986 Lincoln Town car that I have restored. You won't believe that the dad-gum starter solenoid will not do crap when it is forty degrees or below again. I have a new solenoid (three in all), replaced the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column and it worked ok for several days. Now I have to jump start with a screwdriver again. Service Manager at Ford dealership that put in ignition switch said he had no clue as what to do next! Please help!!
Thanks,
fourlaker

 
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Desi501's Avatar
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12-21-03, 01:19 PM   #2  
It should be pretty easy to do a voltage drop at the time it's not starting. You may have a dirty bulkhead connector. If you can depend on it not starting, that makes it easy.

 
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12-21-03, 02:34 PM   #3  
mike from nj
did you ever check the voltage supply on the SMALL wire of the solenoid when the vehicle won't start (under 40F)???

you should be checking it when attempting to start it

 
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12-22-03, 04:26 PM   #4  
truckdrivinfool
If all else fails, next time it doesn't want to start try this....

Run one side of a set of jumper cables from the neg side of the battery to the block and try it again. If it cranks up then you you have a grounding problem.

I fought this type of starting/no starting thing for a year on my old 64 F100 and after replacing the ignition switch, starter and the solinoid twice, I tested it this way and found a bad ground at the body. I remedied the problem w/ a cable that had a lug in the middle that i connected to the body ground and a lug on the end that I ran to the block.

P. S. The trouble w/ my truck did seem worse when it got colder but that could be in my head.

 
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12-22-03, 05:31 PM   #5  
Originally posted by truckdrivinfool
Run one side of a set of jumper cables from the neg side of the battery to the block and try it again. If it cranks up then you you have a grounding problem.
The only thing your testing with that is the negative battery cable. Not too much help there.
The poster has been given all the correct test methods in the past. He just has to follow the instructions he's already been given and the problem is quite easy to diagnose.

 
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