91 Isuzu starting problem


Old 12-24-03, 11:19 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 22
91 Isuzu starting problem

I have a 1991 Isuzu regular pickup, 2.6l fuel injected, 4 cyl, auto, that has a starting problem. In the owner's manual, it states that you may have to fully depress the accelerator to start a hot engine (as if it's flooded technique.)

That method is now becoming necessary on almost any starting situation whether cold or hot, even in cool Arizona winter weather. I have to fully depress the accelerator and let the engine rev high at ignition to keep it running. Which is to say, the engine seems to be in "flood" mode any time I start it. Any ideas?
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Old 12-24-03, 09:06 PM
mike from nj
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i know i posted a quick reply here before, but now i find it completely gone. there were no derogatory comments, just a quick question for the poster.

not in any order, but things that i check on these.

--ignition timing, and belt timing---if they're off, the timing belt is loose or jumped a tooth(it will bend valves too when it breaks) belt should be done every 60,000 miles, water pump is not driven by the timing belt, so it needs one only if it's bad

--valves need to be adjusted every 15,000 miles, or the clearance gets 'less', and holds the exhaust valve open--->burnt valve. if you drive like an old lady, it doesn't need to be done as often. if you tow, haul, drive at high speed, or have big hills to climb(anything that causes the engine to work hard)--you better stick to 15,000 mile adjustments

--vacuum lines get brittle, and the ends crack. cut 1/4 inch off the ends one at a time, and push them on all the way.

--fuel pressure rarely fails on these, however the pump connector is notorious for corrosion. this would lead to a non starting vehicle. you need some adapters to even check the pressure

--intake manifold gaskets can crack and lead to a hard starting car, it somewhat gets better as it warms up, but cold starting is a chore. spray a little brake parts cleaner in the corners of the intake manifold(where it meets the cylinder head), if the engine rpm changes at all---it's leaking. watch out spraying near the distributor cap---there are sparks inside there and it doesn't take much to start a fire

--basic maintenance....good (ngk) plugs, wires, cap, rotor

--air ducting gets loose between the Mass Air Flow sensor and the throttle body----same problems as an intake leak

--check the battery voltage when it's running, if it's low, it will cause a number of odd things to happen before it trips the battery light. you want 13.5-14.5 volts

start with the easy stuff, let us know where you get

is/was the check engine light ever on---it rarely comes on, the system is very basic, and not much help. but you can check codes with a paper clip, i forget how. i'll check on friday when i go back to work.
Old 12-26-03, 06:02 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 22

Thanks for all the ideas. I'll start with the easiest first. I like the suggestion about vacuum lines. Will let you know.


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