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New Flywheel = pain in the @55


1fireman's Avatar
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02-04-04, 04:55 PM   #1  
1fireman
New Flywheel = pain in the @55

Long time no see DIY, which is a good thing. My 1984 ford ranger finally had another mishap.

to refresh:

2.8 V6 4speed manual with 4WD (mitsu FM145 trans with Borg Warner 1350 transfer case)
about 125k

Just last week it was a balmy -26 degrees Farenheit here in the lovely Twin Cities. I went out to start my ranger after letting a space heater hang out underneath it for a couple hours. (yeah I know, bad idea but I didn't get a block heater for it yet.)

To make a long story short my starter ripped a tooth or two off of the flywheel, and the ensuing attempt to start it wrecked the starter. (it did start though!!!!) I have read my chilton manual on replacing the flywheel, straight forward enough, but I would like to know from someone with experience what I am getting myself into, and perhaps some other things to check/replace while I have the tranny out. Clutch jumps to mind, along with all my leaky tranny gaskets and seals. Any helpful hints or suggestions would be great.

By the way, the ranger still starts just have to make sure I park pointing downhill.....

 
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02-05-04, 04:06 AM   #2  
It is more likely that the starter went first and then, in turn damaged the flywheel. It usually doesn't happen all at once either. Driving around with a bad starter usually ruins the flywheel. If your transmission has problems also, it would be a good time to send it out to a tranny shop while it's out. If your clutch is more that 60-70% worn, I'd replace that too. Make sure you have something supporting the engine when the tranny comes out.

 
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02-05-04, 04:39 PM   #3  
1fireman
No major tranny probs at this time, however I do have leaky seals and the pan gasket. Are there any major bearings easily accessible while I have the transmission out?

The starter was less than six months old, but the reason the last one went is because the top bolt came completely out and the body of the starter rubbed against the flywheel grinding it down. I'd imagine that is when the majority of the damage was done.

 
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02-05-04, 06:05 PM   #4  
Nothing in that transmission is a DIY job. If you take that apart, you may never get it back together correctly. Take it to a tranny shop and he will tell you what needs to be done.

 
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02-05-04, 06:12 PM   #5  
1fireman
Not even the seals and gasket??

 
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02-05-04, 06:36 PM   #6  
Originally posted by 1fireman
Not even the seals and gasket??
About the only one you may be able to access would be the tailshaft seal. What else is there? You did say it was a standard shift, right?

 
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02-08-04, 11:05 AM   #7  
1fireman
Yes, it is a manual. I does slowly leak fluid, I assume from the pan gasket, but any other seals I can replace myself I would want to just to tighten it up some. Any preventative type things I can do while I have it out will benefit me in the long run.

Also, I notice in the section of my manual where it talks about replacing the flywheel it also mentions the ring gear. I am right in thinking that the ring gear is not the teeth on the flywheel but something else I shouldnt have to replace right?

 
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02-08-04, 02:43 PM   #8  
Originally posted by 1fireman
Yes, it is a manual. I does slowly leak fluid, I assume from the pan gasket, but any other seals I can replace myself I would want to just to tighten it up some.

Also, I notice in the section of my manual where it talks about replacing the flywheel it also mentions the ring gear. I am right in thinking that the ring gear is not the teeth on the flywheel but something else I shouldnt have to replace right?
I might not be up on every transmission out there but I don't know of any manual transmissions with pans. What am I missing here?

The ring gear is a replaceable part of a flywheel or torque converter that enables you to replace only the teeth but there aren't many vehicles designed like that.

 
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02-14-04, 07:22 AM   #9  
1fireman
I guess it may not be a "pan," However it is an access cover on the bottom of the transmission and it does require a seal.

In my repair manual it does state that I can replace the ring gear on this particular vehicle. Dont know if its true or not, but the manual hasnt failed me yet. Thanks for the info.

 
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02-14-04, 01:46 PM   #10  
1fireman
OK, this is proving to be more of a P.I.T.A. than I expected. Is there any way to remove the Flywheel without actually removing the tranny. Removing the tranny means taking out the driveshaft, removing the transfer case, and that requires removing the front driveshaft. All three of which are no easy task on things that havent been touched for 20 years.

Is there a way to disconnect the tranny from the engine and make some room to get at the flywheel?

 
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02-14-04, 02:18 PM   #11  
No.

Sorry to be short, but thats the way it is.

 
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02-14-04, 02:19 PM   #12  
On second thought.......You could remove the engine and leave the trans intact

 
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02-14-04, 02:53 PM   #13  
imjerry
Would you believe

We flip them over with a car flipper to do that job on those and C4 and C6 Jeeps LOL What a pain job!! We do it for clutches in the snow season!!!

 
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02-14-04, 10:18 PM   #14  
mike from nj
on some cars, it is actually quicker to pull the engine than the trans.


on farm tractors, my friend told me of how he would take out all the bolts from the trans, then install two long threaded rods in the bolt holes, and slide the trans back on a floor jack, and replace the clutch that way. you still have to take out the driveshafts.

that is the easy part, wait til you try to wrestle the new ring gear onto the flywheel. i swore i would never do that again.

 
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02-15-04, 03:50 AM   #15  
Originally posted by mike from nj

that is the easy part, wait til you try to wrestle the new ring gear onto the flywheel. i swore i would never do that again.
It's been many years since I changed one but what I did is heat the ring gear to slip it over, then cool it once in position.

 
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