2000 Jimmy Noise

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  #1  
Old 02-17-04, 10:38 PM
Rory_W
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2000 Jimmy Noise

My 2000 Jimmy has a groaning type sound from the front end. Checked front end oil and was fine. In either 2WD or 4WD, but louder in 2WD. The Jimmy has 60K for miles. CV Joint boot seals are good and not leaking. I guess it sounds more like roaring, we thought the road noise was from tires, but rotated tires and no change. Can barely hear noise when at low speeds and as go higher sound gets louder. Does not change when in neutral or coasting, so not an engine noise. Can feel it a little in the steering. Sound changes a little when turning left, not much and turning right not at all. Any help is appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-18-04, 01:39 AM
ilketile
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if sound changes or goes away when you turn steering wheel. try to figure out which side noise is on and replace wheel bearing on that side.
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-04, 06:47 AM
Rory_W
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That's what I would have thought also, but I believe on this Suv with 4WD that there is no wheel bearings since it has CV joints. How can I check the CV joints easily and without replacing the boots?
 
  #4  
Old 02-18-04, 06:51 AM
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You do have bearings and they are not cheap.It does sound like your problem though.
 
  #5  
Old 02-18-04, 08:58 AM
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Sound changes a little when turning left, not much and turning right not at all.
Does it get louder or less noise turning left?
 
  #6  
Old 02-18-04, 10:31 AM
Rory_W
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The sound gets lss when turning left than right. Are the wheel bearings the CV joint bearings or are the CV joints in a bearing. I have a drawing I got from Michell Manuals and it show a CV joint bearing gage and then the outer race for the joint.
 
  #7  
Old 02-18-04, 10:59 AM
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the CV joints and bearings...

...are two different parts. the bearing/hub assembly is what your wheel bolts to. remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper bracket and then the brake rotor. next...get a big socket and breaker bar and remover the big nut in the very center...then go through the access hole in the hub (the part with the wheel studs sticking out of it) and remove the three screws that hold the hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle and there you have it. it's a sealed unit...not serviceable. you may have to wiggle and pry on it a bit but it will slide out of the knuckle and off of the axle shaft (the splined part). the splined part is the outer CV joint. reverse the procedures for reassembly and be sure to tighten things properly...preferably with a torqe wrench
 
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Old 02-18-04, 11:01 AM
Rory_W
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I appreciate all your help and will give that a try. I will keep you posted.

Rory
 
  #9  
Old 02-18-04, 11:13 AM
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Based on the way the noise changes I'd look closely at the left side.
 
  #10  
Old 02-18-04, 02:38 PM
Rory_W
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I appreciate everyones help. I will be taking the left side first and check it out. You were right those hub and bearing assemblies are expensive, but worth it. Hard to believe it went out with only 60K on Jimmy. Should they be lubed periodically like regular wheel bearing or are they sealed. Thanks again.

Rory
 
  #11  
Old 02-18-04, 02:54 PM
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They are sealed. Can go bad from hitting a pot hole or bumping a curb.
 
  #12  
Old 02-24-04, 04:21 PM
Rory_W
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Help

I've got the 3 bolts of from the steering knuckle that hold the hub and the axle nut is off. Now the problem is the hub will not come off the axle shaft. It is frozen and I tried 2 wheel pullers and no luck. Any idea on how to remove it. I thought that maybe remove the otter CV joint, but I think you have to get the hub off first to get the retainer ring off. Any help is appreciated.
 
  #13  
Old 02-24-04, 09:12 PM
mike from nj
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is the bearing frozen to the axle shaft, or frozen to the knuckle?

it could be both.

the cv joint should be able to be pushed in a small amount, enough to know whether it's frozen there too.

try some heat, like a torch, the bearing is getting replaced, so don't worry about ruining that, just don't get too much heat into the axle shaft.

have you tried hitting the bearing 'hub' part with a large hammer, to break the rust loose. you might want to swing away with the hammer while the puller is installed and very tight on it. the combined force might be what you need.


when in doubt, hit it harder.
 
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Old 02-25-04, 02:10 AM
ilketile
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i did front end work for years. but has been a couple years since i got out of it but if i remember correctly on these. what i use to do is bolt my slide hammer on hub using the wheel studs to secure it and just start slide hammering it outward till it comes off the vehical. then youll need to use a press to get bearing off spindal
 
  #15  
Old 02-25-04, 05:16 AM
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smack it with a hammer...

...a big one (like 2 lbs) on the flange (the part the studs are pressed into)...don't worry about hurting it, you're replacing the whole thing. hit it top and bottom/side to side and it'll come loose and just slide right out. the beraing is not frozen to the shaft, it's inside the hub...nor does it ride on the spindle. mike is right, you should be able to push, or lightly tap, the end of the axle (use a block of wood so you don't mar the end of the axle) and it should slide freely...just a little is all it moves...once the hub assy is loose, grab it with both hands and wiggle it out of the steering knuckle and off of the axle shaft (outer CV) simultaneously.

a wheel puller isn't the answer because you have nothing to push against...

the hub will just slide off...fall out and the outer CV joint/axle assy will just sit there...sticking thru the steering knuckle.
 
  #16  
Old 02-25-04, 05:40 AM
Rory_W
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Itís frozen on to the axle. The whole assembly is loose inside the knuckle. The puller I used bolts to the hub and the center screw pushes on the axle. It was bending the puller. I tried tap on the axle and no help there. I will try and put the axle nut back on and retighten it. It may have moved a little when I was removing it. How easy is it to remove the outer CV joint. I do not see a retainer on the shaft. Do I have to remove the whole steering knuckle.
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-04, 08:20 AM
Rory_W
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It's off

I have it off finally and the bearing feels OK, but then again it has no load. The CV joint looks OK also. I will repack the CV and I guess replace the bearing. Any thoughts?
 
  #18  
Old 02-25-04, 10:23 AM
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I think after that beating and banging, if was good before you started it's most likely NG now.
 
  #19  
Old 02-25-04, 10:31 AM
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the CV...

...doesn't need any service unless you opened the boot and if you did, be sure to use CV grease (available at your local parts supplier) NOT wheel bearing grease...and you probably need a tool to install the clamp with...depens on what kind of replacement clamp you use...don't use a hose clamp

most bad bearings that big are hard to feel any roughness in without a load...I also agree with TM...after the beating it took, it ought to be replaced
 
  #20  
Old 02-25-04, 11:41 AM
Rory_W
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Thatís what I figured on the bearing, Iím going to replace it and already on order. As for the CV Boot I did tear it and I have a Boot Kit on order also. The parts store said the boot; clamps and grease are all in it. So I cleaned it thoroughly and I did mark the cage when I took it apart. I know one thing I will stick with turning wrenches on 737 aircraft, fewer headaches. Thanks for everyone help, I will keep all posted on my adventure.

Rory
 
  #21  
Old 02-27-04, 12:52 PM
Rory_W
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Job Completed

I finally got the bearing replaced and that took care of my noise, I appreciate everyones help!

Rory
 
  #22  
Old 02-27-04, 02:02 PM
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Good Job glad it's fixed.
 
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