Mitsubishi Eclipse Start and gas paddle

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  #1  
Old 02-26-04, 08:57 PM
RookieRookie
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Mitsubishi Eclipse Start and gas paddle

I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 2.0L non-turbo, fuel injection car. The problem happens occasionally. Typically, I do not step on the gas paddle when I start the car. Most of the time (95%) it starts fine and runs o.k.
Occasionally, the engine turns and fires up, but was not able to continue. Repeated starting like 4-6 times would still not able to get the engine to start up properly.
However, if I step on the gas paddle down to the floor, it would start up properly.
I have done the following:
- Changed PCV valve
- Checked and change some hoses
- Put in fuel injector cleaner, carburetor cleaner into the gas tank
- Took out the throttle body and clean (with carburetor cleaner) the throttle plate, air by-pass thoroughly
- Measured the IAC motor, and it is within specification
- Measured the TPS sensor, and it is within specification, and it moves smoothly between fully on and fully off.
- Unable to find the BISS (base idle setting screw) to adjust the idle speed
- Changed new set of spark plugs
- Changed new set of spark plug (distributor) wires
- The timing belt has been changed about 2 years ago.

I like to able to start the engine without needing to step on the gas paddle down to the floor.
Any suggestion as to what may be the problem(s), and what to check ?
Thank you very much,
Rookie.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-27-04, 05:06 AM
fordman30
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have you checked the fuel pressure?"sounds like to me the fuel pump is getting weak
 
  #3  
Old 02-27-04, 04:42 PM
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Many foreign cars have a "cold start injector" which is supposed to help, obviously, when the engine is cold. They'll hang open sometimes, flooding the engine. By pressing the accelerator, you're disabling the normal fuel flow (clear flood mode, I think it's called). I have no manuals in front of me, so do not know for sure if your car has such a thing..But it's something to look into...
 
  #4  
Old 02-27-04, 09:09 PM
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Eclipse Hard Start

Sounds like fordman is on the right track.

Unlike carbureted vehicles, fuel injected vehicles do not require "pumping the gas pedal" to start. Fuel is pre-determined by the PCM (computer) for all operating conditions based on sensor input signals. Pressing the gas pedal to the floor on most cars results in the engine going into "clear flood" mode. This is good if you have flooded the vehicle, but for nothing else.

When you first turn the key to the "on" position, can you hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds? If it does "that's a good thing", but I'd suggest a fuel pressure test at idle and under load to see if everything is normal.

Most fuel pumps last about 100K under the best of conditions. That means good gas and not letting your tank get below 1/2. The pumps are cooled by the gas and when that gets low they tend to heat up and wear faster. The crud in today's gas also reeks havoc with them as well.

Start by checking this out. If you need a pump and you can access it from under the rear seat, it's not a bad job.

Keep your fingers crossed and hope it's not a crank/cam sensor 'cause they're about $500 at the dealer!

HTH

Matt
 
  #5  
Old 02-28-04, 08:48 AM
mike from nj
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even though it says mitsubishi on the bumper, your engine should be a dodge product.

do you have a silver or black valve cover? are the belts on the driver's side or the passenger side? this will tell who made the engine.

fuel pressure is a good 'free' test, but if the pressure isn't there, it won't ever start.(your description doesn't match a bad pump)

if i had to guess, i would guess at a lazy AIS motor, but i don't like to do that. if you remove the motor, you should be able to push it in and pull it out 'slightly' with minimal finger pressure. if it won't budge, it could be the problem

AIS=automatic idle speed motor, you shouldn't ever touch the minimum idle screw.

there is also a computer 're-flash'(reprogram) that has improved idle qualities, the description is as follows:

**Check Engine Light Illuminated, and DTC "TOO LITTLE SEC AIR, OR TOO MUCH SEC AIR" (MTX) or DTC "UPSTREAM OR DOWNSTREAM O2S SHORTED TO VOLTAGE" is set, and/or any of the following symptoms: Driveway start up die out and long restart times in cold ambient temperatures; launch hesitation during engine warm up; rough idle following start up when the engine coolant temperature is approximately 60 to 100 degrees fahrenheit; engine idle speed RPM increase during A/C engagement; light load vehicle surge (MTX); engine idle speed RPM undershoot after de-clutch (MTX). **

mtx=manual trans


let us know what you have

ps. cam and crank sensors aren't near $500, more like under 100 each
 
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