90 Mazda B2200 start problem


Old 03-05-04, 10:23 PM
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90 Mazda B2200 start problem

I am having intermittent problem starting my 1990 Mazda fuel injected B2200.

Sometimes it would not start (no sound from engine at all) or sometimes I would have to leave the key in the start position for good 5-10 sec (no sound from engine at all during all this time) and then it would crank and startup.

I thought it might just be old worn battery as I was able to jump start it when it doesn't start. But the problem persists even after I dropped in a new Interstate battery.

The voltage at battery terminals is about 12.5~12.8V when engine is off and ~14.2V when engine idles. So I think the charging system should be fine.

Does anyone have know how I proceed to troubleshoot this problem? Thanks
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Old 03-06-04, 01:15 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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Does the lights or horn work when it dosen't start.

You need to check with your voltmeter when it dosen't start.

I would check at the two terminals at the starter. The big one should have power all the time. The smaller one will have power only in the start position.

Sounds like the starter may have a "dead spot", but you have to check it as stated above when it won't start
Old 03-06-04, 10:27 PM
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Headlight and horn both work just fine even when it won't start. Didn't have a meter around me when it didn't want to start last time but light was bright and not dim with the new battery.

I did wonder if it was the starter, but it didn't start when I tapped on it. I'll check the voltage on the starter the next time it quits on me.
Old 03-07-04, 12:00 AM
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sounds like a bad ground dude
Old 03-07-04, 02:06 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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The other thing you can do to diagnose it is to perform a "Voltage drop test"

When it doesn't start, While attempting to start it:

Set your meter on the Volts scale, put one probe on the (+) post and the other probe on the stud of the starter. It should read less than 0.5 volts if the connection is good.

You can check the ground the same way, probe on (-) post and other one on the base of the starter.

When I say battery post I mean the post not the terminal.

If the readings are higher than 0.5 you have a poor connection. Work your way back to battery to find the bad connection. You would find a poor connection between the battery post and terminal this way.

How this works is when the connection is poor your reading the voltage thats going through the meter instead of its intended path.
Old 03-17-04, 08:43 PM
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The truck died completely the other day and actually it turned out to be bad connection at the ignition switch as I was able to get it to alternate between start and no start conditions with simple wiggle on the wires for the switch. But thanks for all your suggestions.

I am now trying to change timing belt on the same truck and it's my first timing belt (crossing fingers). I am following the steps listed in the factory service manual but I am not sure on how to remove the crankshaft pulley. The pulley turns as I try to turn the bolt??

I'd appreciate also any other tips and things to watch out for on a timing belt job. Thanks
Old 03-17-04, 11:52 PM
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check the direction in which the pully is turning and than using a
correct socket on a breaker bar on the pully, crank the motor
so that the breaker bar hits the chassis at about a quarter revolution and this knock will undo the bolt for you
make sure that the engine does not start by pulling the plug at
the coil or distributor
i hope it makes sense
its just like using a hammer on the breaker bar instead you are
using the starter's rpm to do the job for you

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