s10 will not start

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  #1  
Old 03-22-04, 07:04 PM
pbandsb
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'96 S10 will not start

Vortec V6
When I turn the key, instruments, lights, radio, etc. all work. I hear a single click and nothing else happens. Sat for about a week, so I thought battery drained, but battery checks out as ok. Shows approx 12 volts when key is turned.

I was thinking starter, but thought it would click more times when the starter went bad. Possibly connection from battery to starter? It's happened a few times in the past, but started on the next key turn, so I thought I it was a fluke. Now it won't start at all.

Any ideas where to go next?
 
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  #2  
Old 03-22-04, 07:38 PM
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S-10 No Start

What do you mean the battery checks out OK?

Has it been properly load tested or are you just reading the gage on the instrument panel or using a DVOM?

It may show 12V, but not have sufficient cranking amps to get the job done.

More info please.

Matt
 
  #3  
Old 03-22-04, 07:40 PM
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Could be starter but let's check the battery first. If you have a meter, check the battery for voltage. If you show 12-13 volts, then turn the key to start while the meter is still connected. If you see a big drop in voltage, the battery is bad. The 12-13 volts are a "float" voltage, enough to play the radio, but a major amperage demand from the starter will drop the voltage drastically.
One solenoid click or sometimes a chatter, usually means battery time.
No meter? Then turn on your headlights and have someone turn the key to start while you watch the headlights. If they go dark, the battery has lost it's charge, probably a bad cell.
 
  #4  
Old 03-22-04, 07:45 PM
pbandsb
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smogtek: I took it to Advance Auto (where it was purhased a year ago) and they checked it out. However, I don't believe they did a load test. I should probably take it back and have them do that.

goldstar: My volt meter bit the dust a while back and don't yet have a replacement. I'll see what I can do.

Thanks!
 
  #5  
Old 03-23-04, 11:08 AM
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make sure when they check the battery...

...at advance, that they do the load test properly. they must load the battery with a carbon pile load tester to the specified load rating of the battery. if that info is not clearly stated on the battery itself...then one half the cold cranking amps will do...example: 750 CCA = 375 amps load test. if their load tester won't adjust to the proper test value...it's not valid.

personally i prefer conductance testing...it's very accurate and takes no energy from the battery

another name for a load test is a " high rate discharge test" and it does just that...discharges the battery.
 
  #6  
Old 03-23-04, 05:14 PM
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I forgot to mention another simple check. Make sure that the battery cables have a clean connection on both ends. I have had similar starting problems when corrosion built up at the starter connection. You might try disconnecting the positive at the battery, remove the other end from the starter, and shine up the terminal, nuts etc. with some sandpaper. retighten the starter connection, then replace the terminal at the battery. A small amount of corrosion can allow enough voltage to pass to run your radio, but when you turn the key to start, it can act as an insulator and not pass enough power to turn the starter.
 
  #7  
Old 03-24-04, 05:37 AM
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i do hate throwing parts at things...

...and doing unnecessary procedures (but that's me)...if you get your DVOM replaced or fixed...i'll tell you how to diagnose your starting system without using the headlights (which is shade tree at best) or replacing terminal ends (which should only be done as an emergency repair anyway)

PS...a single LOUD click...or better described as a clank might be a locked up engine...I know it's not what you wnat to hear...but I have seen starters replaced for seized engines...the truly best way to sort out any and all electrical issues with the starting system is with a meter...bottom line
 
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