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Removing light rust from cyl. bores after storage

srponies's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97

03-26-04, 04:43 AM   #1  
Removing light rust from cyl. bores after storage

Just unwrapped a block that I am going to rebuild. It's been sitting for about a year. It had been to the machine shop at that time, so everything had been cleaned, oiled and bagged.
Now I notice a fair amount of surface rust at the bottom half of the back two cylinders.
What would be the best way to clean this up? Should I use a ball hone and some oil or WD40?

Any ideas appreciated,

Steve H

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mike from nj's Avatar
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03-26-04, 11:09 PM   #2  
mike from nj
it entirely depends on how deep the rust is.

surface rust, if it bothers you, can be removed with 400 wet-or-dry sandpaper and some wd-40. surface rust is nothing to be concerned about, it disappears from your brake rotors after the first brake application(especially after a rain), and is really nothing to worry about, the rings will wear it away before it even starts up.

deeper rust, is a big problem. consider that some blocks can only be bored to .030", that leaves .015" per side of the cylinder. now look how thin that actually is on a feeler gauge.

the best thing is to take is back to the machine shop and have them glance at it, they will take 5 seconds to let you know what you have, or need to do. if you try to rehone it, you take the chance of honing it to the wrong finish and the rings might never seat, or the bore might be ever so slightly distorted. remember, we're only talking thousanths of an inch here (.001")

while we're on the subject of cleaning cylinders, the ONLY proper way to clean the cylinder after any machining operation is with basic dish soap and water! spraying parts cleaner or a big rag or any spray solvent or a steam (pressure washer) cleaner will work, but will leave the tiniest particles still in there(in the crosshatch). remember what size we're talking about here(.001") you can never be too clean.

anyone else?

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