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1987 chevy cavelier a/c 4cyl


radd57's Avatar
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04-27-04, 03:22 PM   #1  
radd57
1987 chevy cavelier a/c 4cyl

This car sucks...
I have no power to cooling fan, or blower motor.power goes to relay and stops there on both. relays fuses,motors,thermostat,sensors,resistors its all replaced to try to find the problem? any suggestions.

radd57

 
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04-27-04, 05:04 PM   #2  
Check the fuseable links at the starter. They melt inside so you have to pull on the wire and see if it stretches. If it does, replace it with the same gauge link wire.

 
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04-30-04, 06:56 AM   #3  
radd57
Whats That

What does this fusable link look like and where is it located at? And could you give me a breif description of what the starter has to to with all this.I like information,since its not covered in the manuals.
Thank you for your time.
radd 57

 
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04-30-04, 10:35 AM   #4  
To answer part of your question, the battery positive cable goes to a terminal at the starter. from there, other wires branch out to feed electricity to the rest of the car. You may have several fusible links coming off of this terminal.

The wire(s) with links may look something like a snake that swallowed a mouse. Look for wires with a fat spot or maybe an overwrap.

 
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04-30-04, 04:54 PM   #5  
Posted By: radd57 What does this fusable link look like and where is it located at?
It looks just like another short piece of wire spliced to regular wire coming from the starter. The link is a piece of wire that acts as a fuse and melts internally when the circuit is overloaded. There may be 2, 3 or four of them coming off the starter to supply various circuits in the car. If one has melted, there is a good chance that something in the circuit overloaded it and likely would happen again until you find the cause.

You say you have power at the relay but every relay should have at least 2 hot terminals. One is feed voltage for the component and one is trigger voltage to activate the relay. The link may be responsible for the feed voltage.

 
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04-30-04, 10:47 PM   #6  
radd57
Fusable Links

Okay, i checked them they dont stretch. The starter ,has one post that has the red cable from the battery and 3 others connected onto it .They all light up with a tester light down to the end of wires.Does that mean those are okay? Then theres one solid purple thicker guage wire that does not have any power that's connected to a different post all together on the starter.Is it suppose to have power also ?cause it dosent have juice at all.
If this is the problem i'll jump for joy, if not back to the drawing board.
I'll probably give up if you have no other suggestions and take it to a heating and a/c shop and let em fix it.
How can i let them know just because im a gal,dont try to rip me off without offending them.I'm moved and dont know any of the car repairs shops in the area now.
radd57


Last edited by radd57; 04-30-04 at 10:50 PM. Reason: incorrect message
 
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05-01-04, 07:09 AM   #7  
Here are a few more thoughts. The cooling fan (behind the radiator) usually only runs if the engine needs additional cooling - or if the air conditioning is turned on. You say that you have no blower. It's possible that the blower motor itself has died.
Try starting your car, then switch the cooling control between Off and Max. When you switch to max, you should hear a click under the hood. This would mean that the cooling compressor clutch is working.

I am leaning toward the blower motor itself having an open winding after 17 years.

I think that, if you tell the shop what checks you have made, they will feel that you have more than a basic knowledge of the problem. You could also mention that you have some out of town " uncles " who are master mechanics ( that does not include me - I'm strictly a shade tree tinkerer) who have suggested problem areas and who will evaluate what they do for you and your car.

 
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05-01-04, 07:29 AM   #8  
Posted By: radd57 Then theres one solid purple thicker guage wire that does not have any power that's connected to a different post all together on the starter.Is it suppose to have power also ?cause it dosent have juice at all.
radd57
The purple one should only have power when the ignition key is held in the 'start' position.

As for the main problem, I don't have any diagrams/charts with me at home. If you're still fighting it Monday, I'll bring some home and post them.

Matt

 
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05-01-04, 09:03 AM   #9  
radd57
Purple thicker wire on starter post

Okay with ingnition on, that purple thick wire does not have any juice running in it.Double checked its the only single thicker wire to a post all by itself. The other starter post has battery cable and 3 fusable links all together on it.
Thank you for your time and efforts.
radd57

 
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05-01-04, 10:25 AM   #10  
As Smogtek said, you need someone to turn the key to the start position while you check the purple wire. Since the car will probably start, be very careful that it is in Park and the hand brake applied. I don't think your arm is long enough to do this test by yourself.

 
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05-01-04, 11:38 AM   #11  
If the car cranks over (the starter operates)the purple wire is ok.You need to check for power at the blower motor with the key on.Do you have a wiring diagram for you car?

 
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05-01-04, 01:38 PM   #12  
Posted By: davo Do you have a wiring diagram for you car?
That's what you need. We've just been guessing where the power source for those components might be but the right way is to just follow a schematic and you can determine where it's being lost.
Just throwing possibilities out there is not the correct way to deal with this problem. It sounds like you've eliminated the links as a possibility.

 
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05-02-04, 12:18 PM   #13  
radd57
no power

OKay, we checked purple wire to post on starter no juice,when its in start position. No power to blower fan or cooling fan.And they both work fine when you jump them.No i dont have wiring plan for this car, and i dont know how to read them either.Sorry im such a pain.
radd 57


Last edited by radd57; 05-02-04 at 12:21 PM. Reason: grammer
 
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05-02-04, 04:52 PM   #14  
Guessing isn't going to fix it. somebody's going to have to look at a schematic and find out where the current comes from. These could be two independent problems. Maybe somebody here will be able to check out a schematic and give you some guidance but guessing won't work. It has to be systematically tested.

 
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