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Check engine light. Isuzu Trooper


becerrex's Avatar
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05-02-04, 08:57 PM   #1  
becerrex
Check engine light. Isuzu Trooper

Hi,

Isuzu Trooper 2000. 110k miles. Check engine light on. Technician says a part (don't remember the name) needs to be cleaned but would charge $300. How can I do this myself and save some money? Where is this part located?

Thanks much

 
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05-03-04, 04:23 AM   #2  
It is not possible to help you do something if you don't know what you want us to help you with.Find out the name of the part then post back with that info.

 
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05-03-04, 08:05 AM   #3  
mike from nj
also post the code number, starting with a 'p' here.

 
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05-03-04, 10:10 AM   #4  
I'll go out on a limb here and suggest that what your mechanic was refering to was the EGR valve, and your computer code was P0401, this is a common problem with later model Isuzu trucks starting at 30-50k miles. See the link for a thred on the subject.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...&highlight=egr

How to clean

1 : Remove the EGR valve, there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust flow donít worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.

2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port, you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.

3 : check your EGR valve, push the pintle on the bottom to be sure it moves in and out freely, if not clean it donít replace the valve. Once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.

 
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05-03-04, 11:38 AM   #5  
becerrex
Thanks a lot!!!, and yes, the code is P0401.

Can you tell me where the EGR valve is? (what it looks like?)

I appreciate your help

 
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05-03-04, 01:22 PM   #6  
Assuming you have the 3.2 engine, if you stand at the front facing the engine compartment, at the rear of the engine just to the left of the black cover you'll see a round thing with a wire harness plugged into the top, unplug the harness and remove 2 bolts being carefull not to drop it when you take it out because it's heavier than it looks.

 
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05-04-04, 04:42 PM   #7  
I don't think the guy would charge $300 to clean an egr port.May be something a little deeper but I hope not.

 
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05-04-04, 07:56 PM   #8  
mike from nj
for the 'low flow' code, 80% of the problems are a clogged passage. it only clogs at the last 1/4" of the tube, which is conveniently located right behind the throttle body. take off the air tube from the filter, then unbolt the throttle body(leaving the coolant hoses attatched) and slide it out of the way. if you look inside the engine with a flashlight, you will see the end of the tube clogged with carbon. straighten out a coathanger and chip that tube clean while spraying some 'throttle body cleaner' into the tube at the same time. this fixes most of them.

the other 20% is a sticking egr valve. it's a judgement call of how bad it's sticking of whether it needs to be replaced or not. if you choose, you can spray it out thoroughly and cross your fingers that it won't stick again. based on the price of the valve, if it's only slightly stuck, i give the customer the option of cleaning and hoping, or replacing it. if it's stuck good and tight, it's getting a new one. it's a 50/50 chance of the valve cleaning process being a long term repair (and the cust knows that fully up front)


i wouldn't recommend running the engine without an egr valve and spraying a whole can of cleaner into it, with the chance of a fire a real possibility. what i described works. and troopers only come with a 3.5L, the rodeos get the 3.2L, not much difference between the two however.

 
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05-13-04, 06:50 AM   #9  
becerrex
Thanks a lot Davejb.

It was exactly as you described it and so far it's working just fine.

 
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05-14-04, 08:19 AM   #10  
Bugalou
You can get a generic OBDII code reader for like 40 bucks off of ebay and save yourself the 50 bucks for 5 minutes work that a mechanic will usually charge you to pull a code..

Bug

 
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05-14-04, 11:15 PM   #11  
mike from nj
not to hijack the thread anymore than it is, but we charge $85 to read the code, for 10 seconds worth of work on our $3000 code reader(scan tool computer), but then we will completely diagnose the system and identify the problem for free after that, and it's usually fixed permanently after that.



((((it's called having "overhead"))))

 
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05-15-04, 08:10 AM   #12  
Bugalou
Mike , this is a do it yourself website..

bug

 
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05-15-04, 09:33 AM   #13  
Posted By: Bugalou Mike , this is a do it yourself website..

bug
True, but in a manner that is correct and of the best possible quality the first time. Junkyard knock sensors and calipers, window a/c units in the bed of a pick-up, and "silicone a cover over the EGR port" do not fall into this category. Not only are you a danger to yourself and everyone else in the path of your 88 Pulsar, you are a bigger danger to those you try to "advise." Now, as Mike said, enough of hijacking threads. May I suggest to everyone that in the future, beyond any initital corrections to his misinformation, replies to Bug be confined to PM.

 
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05-16-04, 03:50 AM   #14  
Anything that you need to say to someone that is off topic should be done in a PM.This pertains to everyone here including me and I've sent a few trust me.

 
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