1994 Buick hood cable

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  #1  
Old 05-21-04, 04:27 AM
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1994 Buick hood cable

Hello all. My daughter has a 1994 Buick Century and the cable that you pull under the dash is apparently stretched out or something because you now have to take a pair of pliers and yank on the cable, while someone bangs on the hood to get it open.
I took a look at it yesterday and tried to wrap the cable end around the mechanism that keeps the hood latched in an effort to shorten the cable up and it didn't seem to help at all?? So, I put it back the way it was so it would at least work. The latching mechanism itself doesn't appear to have enough return spring to actually pull the cable back to its resting position either.
Do you guys think that just replacing the cable would do the trick or should I plan on picking up a used hood latch as well? I cannot believe that this cable could have stretched as much as it has, I bet it is about 1.5" longer than it supposed to be. Any thoughts??
 
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Old 05-21-04, 11:07 AM
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Wink

Instead of going through the expense of a new cable, I disconnected it at the latch and looped a section on 14 guage electric wire to just below the bumper when mine went bad on my 89 Century. But then again mine was just a station beater!!! And yes they do streatch 1.5" + over time. The latch should not be a problem at all, just grease it real well.

Hope this helps.

Doug
 
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Old 05-21-04, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Money Pitt
Instead of going through the expense of a new cable, I disconnected it at the latch and looped a section on 14 guage electric wire to just below the bumper when mine went bad on my 89 Century.
Doug
Yep, that's about as "shadetree" as you can get.

Poster:
Yes it sounds like you may need at least a little work on the latch in addition to the cable. Some of your problems may be in the alignment adjustment of the latch against the striker if your having to bang on the hood. It needs to be adjusted so as when the hood first touches the latch that it is not pushed to either side. Lower the hood into the latch very slowly and watch for the hood to move to either side. Adjust it so that doesn't happen and it pulls down securely enough. I think I might opt for a new latch rather than the junkyard. That's just asking for more problems.
 
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Old 05-22-04, 03:16 AM
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Desi, do you think that I could buy the cable/latch at my local NAPA or would these items be a dealer thing only? It would seem that the cable might be available there, but the latch, thats another subject altogether.
Of course she is away at college/work and she has these quick lube places do her changes and I think one of these "cowboys" probably gave the handle a good yank and never said anything about it afterwards. Because the last time I opened the hood it worked fine, and now......
Thanks to both of you for input.
 
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Old 05-22-04, 03:38 AM
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I forgot. I was going to ask about adding some freon to the a/c system. While I was working on the hood latch I did notice that it holds the 134a type of refrigerant and not the r-12 type.
Sometime last winter she had some work done on the front of the engine. She said it the air pump? Anyway I guess it lost its freon out somehow and now it no longer blows any cold air. I'm kind of at a loss to give the exact details because she couldn't really tell me what happened.
I guess what I need to know is can I add some more freon safely or should I just bring it to a local shop and let them do it? She already called and it was going to be a small charge plus the can of refrigerant. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-22-04, 03:47 AM
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No, that cable is going to have to come from the dealer. It is very "vehicle specific" and can't be made generically, same goes for the latch.
As for your A/C question, from what you describe, the system has been opened to the atmosphere. This means the the system will have to be evacuated before recharging. This removes all of the air and moisture from the system which is not compatable with the freon. Because of this, she will have to get an "evacuate and recharge" for the system as opposed to just topping off the system. This will usually ran a couple hundred dollars including freon. All this is assuming the freon was discharge manually and the system does not have a leak. If it has a leak, it will all be for nothing because it will leak back out.
 
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Old 05-22-04, 04:59 PM
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Hey thanks for the info. It is greatly appreciated.
 
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