E-150 engine stalls and low oil pressure


Old 05-28-04, 01:25 PM
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E-150 engine stalls and low oil pressure

I have 1995 Ford E-150 Econoline 12-passenger Van with small block (302) V-8 engine. Over the last 6 months I have been experiencing increasing problems with the vehicle stalling whenever I rev the engine and then let off the accelerator. The van also stalls when I have been driving and come to an abrupt stop.

I can prevent a stall by using both feet (one on break one on gas pedal) as I decellerate to a stop (I know this isn't safe). I've noticed that the voltage gauge and oil pressure both drop off right before the engine dies. The oil pressure used to run about mid-range on the gauge (regardless of engine RPM) but now it appears to run in the bottom 1/3 of the oil gauge (never in the red zone).

I replaced the air filter, oil fiter, oil (10W30), spark plugs/wires/distributor-rotor&cap but the problem did not get any better. The problem does seem to be worse under load (when the A/C is on). The van will always start, and if I just start the van and let it sit in park, the van will usually run and idle fine (sometimes it will die if the A/C is on), but the oil pressure is always in the low end of the range. If I step on the accelerator while in park and let off the gas ... it will always sputter and die (100% of the time). I don't experience any problems while accelerating or at normal speeds (other than the somewhat low oil pressure on the guage).

I would appreciate any suggestions on what I should look at next?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Last edited by jhummel; 05-28-04 at 02:20 PM. Reason: clarify my post
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Old 05-28-04, 03:23 PM
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The oil pressure and alt. readings are just byproducts of the low RPM. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the accelerator wide open and take a tooth brush and some carb cleaner and scrub the back of the throttle plate and the surrounding housing. Now remove the idle air control. It's a cylinder looking thing held on by two bolts to the outside of the throttle body. It has 2 openings. Spray that out real good with carb cleaner making sure the slide valve inside moves back and forth freely. When finished completely soak the inside with WD40 or something similar and reassemble. When you restart it, it may run bad for a second until you burn out all that carb cleaner but then should idle better. That idle air control may ultimately have to be changed but cleaning usually works.
Old 06-05-04, 03:16 PM
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Smile Thanks for the help Desi501


Your diagnosis of the problem was correct. I removed the IAC valve and cleaned it; however, this didn't solve the problem ... so I replaced the IAC valve and everything runs much better now.

Thank you.

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