64 Chevy 283

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  #1  
Old 06-28-04, 06:48 PM
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64 Chevy 283

Just put on a rebuilt 2bbl Rochester (w/divorced choke)
Starts but stalls unless you keep on the gas
My first thought was I didn't tighten/hook up something and there was a vac leak
Everything seems tight, the intake was pretty smooth back from the machine shop (carb studs rotted) and there is only one vacuum line to hook up
I've got pic's of before I disassembled it-I'm going to blow them up tonight and check (again) if I routed/hooked up something wrong

My question is could the timing being overly retarded/advanced give me this?
I did have to remove the distributor, maybe it's a little to far off?
I wanted to get it idling on it's own before I messed with the carb and I can't check the timing or listen/feel for a leak w/o taking my foot off the gas
It gives me a little "backfire-like" pop when I lift and then dies
Any input would be helpful
Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 06-28-04, 08:04 PM
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Are you sure you have the firing order correct whan you ran the plug wires? If so you may have the timing slightly advanced. Back fire through the intake is usually advanced timing or a lean mixture. You can check the timing by cranking the engine until the rotor is aproaching the #1 terminal on the distributor cap. Hook a simple 12volt test light to the small coil wire (negative) that goes to the points. (with the ignition on the light will be on when the points are open and off when the points are closed.) If you do not have a test light you can make one from a 12 volt bulb and some wire.

Turn the ignition on and slowly rotate the engine by hand (hopefully you have a nut in the center of the crankshaft you can put a socket on) With the points closed and the rotor just aproaching the #1 terminal when the light just comes on as you rotate the engine look at the timing mark to see where the engine is timed. When the light comes on is when the spark plug will fire. If the timing is off just put the timing mark at 6 degrees (this is close enough to start & run) then loosen the distributor and rotate it until the light just comes on as the rotor is pointing to #1.

Remember to look and see the direction the rotor turns and you will be turning the distributor the opposite way to just barely open the points.
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-04, 08:56 PM
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I did label the wires but I will double check against my diagram (for a '67)
It's tough as the wires run under the exhaust manifold & plugs are hard to see
I'm sure I have a 12V test light (if not, I can rig one)

No nut in the center of the crank but there are others I can use
I am digging this test light to the points thing
"When the light comes on is when the spark plug will fire" gotcha!
I have a timing spec of 8 degrees BTC for this '64 so something close should allow me to get a light on it eh?
Thanks for the info and I hope I have time to play with it Tues.

"Back fire through the intake is usually advanced timing or a lean mixture"
If all else fails I will back off the timing slightly and see how it goes before I start messing with the carb adjustments
Thanks a bunch!!!
 
  #4  
Old 06-29-04, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by slickshift
"Back fire through the intake is usually advanced timing or a lean mixture"
If all else fails I will back off the timing slightly and see how it goes before I start messing with the carb adjustments
Thanks a bunch!!!
That's just the opposite. RETARDED timing will cause backfire. Advanced will not.
Make sure the accelerator pump is squirting when the throttle is opened.
 
  #5  
Old 06-29-04, 10:15 AM
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Thanks D-
I shouldn't do any damage if I advance it a little then (?)
Hey I forgot that accelerator pump should squirt when I open the throttle by hand w/ the engine off
Well I'll attack it again later this afternoon
Thanks alot guys!
 
  #6  
Old 06-29-04, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Desi501
That's just the opposite. RETARDED timing will cause backfire. Advanced will not.
My mistake, Desi is right. If the engine tries to kick backwards when you try to start it the timing is to far advanced.
 
  #7  
Old 07-02-04, 01:53 PM
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I finally got a chance to play with this
I followed the plug wires and sure enough two were switched
I couldn't get the test light coil points thing to work so I turned the crank till it was at 4d BTDC (AutoZone website said that's the spec) and turned the the dist. until the rotor was pointing right at the #1
I rocked the linkage and there was a little squirt of fuel
I turned the idle set screw up a bit and got this thing running on it's own
I hooked up a timing light and didn't see the mark against the scale
Then I looked lower
Yup, retarded off the scale
Before I got to adjust the dist. I got squirted from a crack in the radiator over flow hose
I then realized it was overheating and shut it down
Guess I'll put a new thermostat in it and mess with it some more
I really appreciate the tips and insights, thank you
 
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