'84 Mustang Clutch Problem

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  #1  
Old 08-08-04, 09:17 AM
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'84 Mustang Clutch Problem

I have a 1984 Ford Mustang, 5.0 L engine, manual transmission and 81,600 miles. A few months I started having problems with the clutch slipping during high RPM's. Recently when depressing the clutch, the pedal goes all the way to the floor, stays in the down position and does not release the clutch, so I must manually pull it up with my foot and try again. Does this mean my clutch has finally worn out?
When I do replace the clutch, is it worth getting a performance style that advertise "more torque than OEM clutches"?
Should I also resurface or replace the fly wheel?
And lastly, I have read that the OEM adjuster for the clutch is awful and that replacing it with an adjustable style on the firewall is a better way to go - is this true and how difficult is it to replace?

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-09-04, 11:21 AM
carguyinva's Avatar
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clutch stuff

yes...your clutch has finnaly had it.

as for a performance clutch...the clutch doesn't provide more torque so as long as your engine remains stock, you don't need some expensive clutch that will only require more pedal effort and probably use up other parts prematurely.

definately resurface the flywheel AND shim the flywheel by the amount removed during machining so as to preserve the correct geometry of all the clutch parts.

a new adjuster, esp if it's original, is a wise thing as well. haven't installed one...so can't speak to the firewall style. you might want to check with your local ford dealer and what a new one looks like compared to your old one. the factory replacement may bean improved version and will work best on your car.
 
  #3  
Old 08-09-04, 05:06 PM
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The plastic pawl of the stock self-adjusters doesn't hold up well, especially with spirited driving
Ford didn't improve this adjuster in later years, you have to go back to '79-'80 and get a manual adjuster for an improved one from them

Go with a good name aftermarket one made of metal (the stock is plastic, and that's most of the problem)

The hardest part is probably removing the old quadrant 'cause you're in the cabin, on your back, doing it by feel, you can't really see up there under your dash
But it's basically a pretty easy and straight-forward replacement
 
  #4  
Old 08-13-04, 04:16 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I checked my Ford manual and this does not look like that difficult of a job, though I have never replaced a clutch before. What should I expect?
 
  #5  
Old 08-13-04, 04:55 PM
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Expect

Well, I guess your doing it in your garage or something so you'll need the Stang up on jack stands @ all 4 corners and maybe 2 or 4 stands for safety
Some air tools would help but aren't a must (impact and ratchet)
You will need a buddy, that tranny is heavy
Drop it with and roll it out with a jack, hopefully with a trans adapter on top, if not be very careful
Oh a really really long socket wrench extention will be invaluable
I forget the size 30", 36"...it's a good length
You'll want that to get to the bolts on top side of the bell housing
Hmmm...
Make sure your clutch kit has an alignment tool
Don't forget a new throw out bearing and don't forget to grease it up
You may want to look at, or just replace u-joints while it's out
Resurface that flywheel
If anything else comes to mind I'll post back
 
  #6  
Old 08-13-04, 05:08 PM
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I may have use of a lift and air tools, so that will help. I did a little reading that changing the flywheel to a 10.5" from the current 10" will increase torque substantially. Any advice on that?

Thanks.
 
  #7  
Old 08-13-04, 07:26 PM
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Well now,

If you can borrow a lift and air tools that would be most helpful
It will make the swap much, much, easier
The 10.5 flywheel is a simple bolt-on for your '84 and a wise investment and then you can use the (superior) 10.5 clutch
It really depends on how well your engine and chassis are tuned as to whether you'll notice it in the drivers seat, torque-wise, but it's still a good idea

You've had an iffy clutch for a while so I wouldn't be suprised if this replacement/upgrade made you smile a bit
 

Last edited by slickshift; 08-13-04 at 07:27 PM. Reason: auto-censor misunderstanding
  #8  
Old 08-16-04, 05:49 PM
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While you are at it you may want to change the input shaft bearing retainer the throw-out bearing rides on. The original one is aluminum and there is an aftermarket steel version. Only about $50. This won't get all gouged up like the aluminum version and will provide a smoother TO bearing release.

I have an '84 5.0 GT too, wish I had installed one the last time I had the tranny out. I ran some fine grit paper over it to remove the worst wear marks and it made an incredible difference in clutch operation. Only stayed like that for about 1000 miles tho. One day I'll get a new clutch in there (and hopefully the aftermarket quadrant too) and change the retainer.

BTW, I installed a Centerforce clutch (only 10") last time and that hasn't been too bad. No increase of clutch effort and it has been in there for quite awhile. From what I remember the prices on CF clutches aren't that bad.
 
  #9  
Old 08-19-04, 07:26 PM
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Thanks for the information. I went with a Centerforce clutch assy. as the price was about the same as others I checked. I also stayed with the 10" flywheel as budget constraints kicked in. I have a new T.O. bearing and pilot bearing along with the pressure plate and clutch. Hopefully I will figure everything out when I get into it, but does anyone have a brief explanation on how the clutch alignment tool is used?
Is the input shaft bearing retainer in a steel version mentioned by "lorax" available at most auto stores? Any other tips while I have the transmission out while I do this Saturday project?

Thanks.
 
  #10  
Old 08-19-04, 09:40 PM
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=

CF clutch = quality
10" = great for stock hp
New TO & pilot = cool
clutch alignment tool = stick it in the tranny when you slap the clutch on, you'll get it
Tips = change tranny & diff fluid, resurface or replace that flywheel, grease that TO bearing
Also = tubular headers, 2.25 or 2.5, zoweee!
Steel input shaft retainer = ? that one got by me...lorax? help me out?
 
  #11  
Old 08-20-04, 01:13 PM
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Last two questions - after I do get this done, do I have to re-set the quadrant or with a few pushes of the pedal will it re-set automatically?
If I change the trans fluid, what is recommended (my manual only gives a Ford number, not something off the shelf)?

Thanks.
 
  #12  
Old 08-20-04, 08:11 PM
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Atf

If you leave the stock quad. it should set itself
Important: you have a T-5 tranny that takes ATF automatic transmission fluid
It sounds weird but it's true
Anybody's will work but I'd recomend a synthetic ATF
 
  #13  
Old 08-21-04, 03:58 AM
lorax123
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Actually I think non-world class T-5s (like what we have in 84's with the higher 2.95 1st gear) take gear lube. The WCs take an ATF type fluid, check out the ford dealer before you change it. It's been a long time since I have, so don't quite rememeber which goes in what tranny.

The Steel Bearing retainer, is probably availabe from Ford (I think it is in the SVT catalog) or is available after market. If you get any of the Mustang mags you should find an advertiser selling one.

It isn't necessary, but does make the clutch operation much smoother.

If you are keeping a factory type clutch quadrant, to adjust it you are supposed to pull it towards you. Shouldn't have to do anything else.

An aftermarket quadrant will require you to actually crawl under the car and adjust it.
 
  #14  
Old 08-21-04, 02:13 PM
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No 5th

oooh, sorry
No 5th gear (not-T5 WC) means 80W gear oil
sorry dude, I thought that ended w/83's
Thanx lorax
 
  #15  
Old 08-22-04, 05:45 AM
lorax123
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Actually Slickshift, his T-5 will have a 5th (OD gear), the WC T-5s are just a stouter version of this tranny.
Still haven't found a definite answer on the gear lube or automatic trans fluid.
I think I read in a recent issue of 5.0 and SuperFords about this, I know they said one gets gear lube the other auto fluid.
Before you do it, I'd stop by Ford Muscle.com and post a message about it, either that or try the dealer.
 
  #16  
Old 09-01-04, 08:30 PM
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Thanks for all the help - clutch replacement went well with car on a lift and with air tools. I am not sure if I could have broken loose the flywheel for resurfacing without an impact wrench. Runs very smooth and clutch pedal pressure is less now than with the OEM clutch. Could not have done it without the advice. Also, I checked with a local dealer and they told me the transmission fluid is 5.6 pints of Dextron II, which is what I went with.

Next project - the carb is ready to be rebuilt AGAIN (stock carb is a Holley 4180). Is this worth rebuilding or are there any reasonably priced bolt on replacements?

Thanks.
 
  #17  
Old 09-01-04, 09:09 PM
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T-5od=atf

That's what I thought about the 5th gear and ATF and all, best to check
I don't remember the #'s on carbs but...go with specs for an '85 (improved over '84)
Or better yet, get in touch with Holley/Edelbrock for (slightly better than) replacement carbs
If you don't go nuts (more is not always better) you can add some zip to your 302
 
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