Need help with a toyota truck, desperate!

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  #1  
Old 08-11-04, 12:59 PM
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Unhappy Need help with a toyota truck, desperate!

Hi everyone, I'm new here, but seems like a great community. Hopefully I can learn something, and maybe offer some help in the future.

I have a 1989 toyota pickup I just purchased, it has four-wheel drive, a 5spd manual, and maual locking hubs with the 22re 4-cyl engine, with approx 140k miles on the truck. When I purchased the vehicle, I was told it has, in the past year, had the following installed on it, and I have no reason to doubt this: alternator, starter, plugs, wires, filters, cap, rotor, tie rods, remanufactured head. Was told it needed a throttle position sensor, which was responsible for it running rich, and having loss of power. I replaced the sensor only to find two other codes, water temp circuit, and knock sensor. I replaced the water temp sensor, but still got a code for that, although my gauge is still not working , is there another temp switch that feeds the ecu, and if so, where would it be? Also, now I notice that, yes, the throttle response is better with the new tps, but still no power, I have to downshift to third to maintain speed on any road with an incline of 20 or more degrees. Initially on startup idle is acceptable, but once engine warms up, idle goes high ( 1400- 1600) , also, once engine is warm, applying pressure to brakes causes a surging idle, but only when engine is warm and when the truck is in 2WD, not in 4WD. I did notice that a. I have no 4WD indicator lighting in my dash, b. my reverse lights aren't working, and c. the previous owner had unplugged the connector to the brake light in the dash, which is always on now. Does this truck have abs, because there is no abs controller or module near the master cylinder, but I read they have abs in 2WD only. If so, what could be wrong? also, what could be causing the high idle when warm? and lastly, if you know the location of an ecu thermo switch, please let me know. I'm at a loss on this thing, as it's my first toyota. Any help would be very greatly appreciated. Thank you all, Jeff
 
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  #2  
Old 08-11-04, 01:10 PM
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Two other things I forgot to add, The engine runs very warm, if I have the heater on hot with the fan on high, it'll burn your toes if you're wearing sandals. Also, the engine is still running very rich, exhaust tip is charcoal black, and incredibly hot, sizzles if you spit on it ( i know, lame test, lol ).
 
  #3  
Old 08-11-04, 01:23 PM
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wow!

that's a bunch of stuff and it will surely take a while to sort all that out thru this medium.

first thing you need to do is get a manual for that truck...seems like you are going to be doing the work yourself. a manual will help you find parts and with testing procedures.

second...looks like the previous owner was less than open about the vehicle...i hope you bought it right.

just because there is a code, doesn't mean that a part needs to be replaced...rather, it means that a fault exists (this is the case if the light is on all the time) OR that a fault existed at some point in time (this would be the case if the light comes on and goes off).

start with diagnosing the codes with the proper service info as both could cause driveability problems...ie...loss of power and poor idle quality.

the brake light being on is another thing...if it has rear anti-lock brakes then that lamp would tell you if you have a rear anti lock fault AND it will warn you if you have a hydraulic failure in the base braking system. again...service info will be your best friend.
 
  #4  
Old 08-11-04, 01:48 PM
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I have a haynes manual, it's gotta be the most worthless pile of paper I ever had, I remember I had one before for my daytonas, I ended up throwing it away and getting the shop mauals, but toyota wants a little more for the manual than chrysler wanted for theirs, lol. Well, if anyone can get me in the right direction that would be great, at the very least , if someone knows where the thermo-switch (not sensor) goes, that'd be great. Thanks again everyone.
 
  #5  
Old 08-11-04, 10:33 PM
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Abs?

'89's had ABS?
 
  #6  
Old 08-11-04, 10:50 PM
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Reread

'89's have a thermo-switch?
Or ABS?
Sorry I am more familier with the 22R (change oil every 10-30K and it's indestructable..lol)
I don't know how to put this...but have you bought an SEP? (someone else's problem)
Maybe you should break it down, well, like carguyinva says...
 
  #7  
Old 08-12-04, 03:07 AM
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What a mess.......................

Start from the begining...Check to make sure the cam timing marks are lined up correctly.

Chech to make sure the efi ground between the runners of the plenum are tight (should be right in the middle where it splits)

TPS adjusted with voltmeter backproping the two bottom wires looking at the sw. Key on no voltage at idle...voltage just off idle.

Then set ignition timing after TPS adjust

That truck don't have ABS

Water thermo sw is the green connector below the TPS

Temp gage is in the middle of the plenum may be yellow/green stripe
 
  #8  
Old 08-17-04, 08:33 PM
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Okay, here we go, this is what I did today, did a exhaust leak test on the radiator, no leaks (phew!), just wanted to make sure the head gasket and head were okay. Also, rerouted all the vacuum lines, seems as though most of them were incorrectly installed (could this foul any sensors or switches? everything was mixed up). Still have a fast idle, which surges when brakes are applied, but only when engine is warm. Still have a knock sensor code, checking that out tomorrow. I have already installed a new tps, but it feels as though the throttle has a stick, so I think I'm going to disassemble the throttle-body and clean it with some seafoam. I can't do squat without lowering that idle, so I may just try to do the valve adjustments and see if I cant set cam timing and then the ignition timing. Still , in 1500 miles of driving , it hasn't burned or leaked an ounce of oil, or lost any coolant, engine is tight, just need to work out these bugs....
 
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Old 08-17-04, 08:37 PM
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Sorry about the ABS thing, got that info from another site, said it was standard on 89's...my bad. Thank you toyotaman for the tips, I'm gonna start following through on those tomorrow. Just ordered a chilton manual, hoping its a little more helpful than the haynes one.
 
  #10  
Old 08-17-04, 09:01 PM
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Chilton/Haynes

If you've outgrown a Haynes a Chilton won't help
It may have a bit here or there, but not much
I truly hope it has the bit you need but...
A factory manual would be the next step
In my experience, a toyotaman is even better
 
  #11  
Old 08-20-04, 07:49 PM
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Okay, here's my situation. knock sensor issue has been resolved, truck runs 10 times better than it did, much improved. Now, I still have the high idle problem, and have determined that once the brake lights are activated ( without actually applying brakes), the idle begins to surge. So, good news is, I don't have to replace the master cylinder ! Bad news is, I still have a high idle, and cannot determine a source, I have no vacuum leaks whatsoever. Any other suggestions out there on what could be the source of this fast idle, please feel free to let me know! Thanks again, Jeff
 
  #12  
Old 08-21-04, 04:15 AM
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This is definately a job for Toyotaman but I wanted to throw out one possibility on the vacuum stuff. Try pinching off the brake booster hose and see how it effects your idle problems. You could be losing a lot of vacuum into the booster. Just something to try.
 
  #13  
Old 08-21-04, 05:10 AM
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Did you adjust the TPS the way I told you and set the timing after that?

Have you lowered the big idle speed screw all the way?

It dosen't have a ECM controlled idle and when it sees the high idle and brake signal it goes into fuel cut......hence the up and down idle.
 
  #14  
Old 08-21-04, 09:27 AM
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Big screw is all the way down, tps is adjusted properly, measured resistance on all contacts, it's set up perfect. I think I'm gonna remove the throttle body today and give it a good cleaning, no trouble codes being indicated. Not sure what else could be doing it, although someone mentioned an idle air control, not sure if that could be doing it. I have the dashpot completely backed out, so as not to affect the idle. As for cam timing, do I have to pull off the cover? If so, I'll just wait a week and do the timing, valves, etc at once.
 
  #15  
Old 08-21-04, 11:13 AM
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Their is a thermostatic idle air control valve under the TB. Pinch the air hose coming in before the throttle plate.


Does the temp gage come up almost to the middle...if not the air valve will stay open. Its used to increase idle speed till it warms up
 
  #16  
Old 08-26-04, 08:11 PM
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Exclamation

Well, here it is, did some major diagnostic work on the truck, removed and disassembled the throttle body, cleaned it (removing the tps) and discovered that , yes indeed, my idle air control is frozen open. Reinstalled throttle body and placed duct tape over the idle air control port in the tb, and bam, problem eliminated... Of course, this creates a new problem, I called the local dealer and asked how much and they said I don't want to know; I checked every local salvage yard, and nobody has a throttle body or iac available, it seems the factory parts are so expensive that everyone grabs toy parts as soon as they get them. So, anyone have any ideas? I was gonna fabricate a plate and bypass it completely, but I already notice a starting difference in 50 degree weather.... Well, thanks everyone for your help, especially you toyotaman, have been extremely helpful.
 
  #17  
Old 08-26-04, 08:16 PM
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BTW, not sure about pinching the air hose before throttle plate, no air hose, it's all self-contained in base of throttle body, with the two coolant lines attached for the valve, 1 yard said mine didn't look like an 89 engine? Chilton shows an electric IAC...weird. Anywho, I also made sure coolant through the lines is good, which it is, although the lines need replacing in the next 10k, told that is a toyota specific part also, only at dealer (my kid didn't really need to go to college ,lol).
 
  #18  
Old 08-27-04, 03:48 AM
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Must be the older one that have the air hose and yours sounds like the passage is internal.

22RE never had an electric IAC, and therefore never had computer controlled idle speed. The first engine in a truck with and IAC was the 5VZ V-6 in '95 in.
 
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