Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Won't crank, starter won't turn.


Quark's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 129
GA

08-17-04, 05:56 AM   #1  
Won't crank, starter won't turn.

'90 Geo tracker 142K

I can't get the starter to turn. But last night, the same thing happened & I removed the battery terminals & it cranked. Battery is fully charge, 13+V...can anyone tell me what to test next?

Edit: Also, I checked the fusable link & it is fine. And it doesn't give a click, click, click. It just give the click when I turn the ignition & then doesn't do anything.

And I just read that it could be any of these: Faulty ignition switch, wiring, solenoid or starter motor.

Is there a way to test the starter without removing it?

Thx


Last edited by Quark; 08-17-04 at 06:13 AM.
 
Sponsored Links
carguyinva's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,147
VA

08-17-04, 06:39 AM   #2  
are you handy with a voltmeter?

if so...you can test the entire circuit on the car...you'll need to be able to get at the terminals on the starter however...if that's not possible then you can only do partial testing.

begin by putting the voltmeter (a digital one preferably) on the battery and have someone try to crank it....less than 9.6 V...replace your battery
greater then 9.6...move your positive meter lead down to the battery connection at the starter solenoid (should be the top post) and move your negative meter lead to the positive battery post...have someone try to start the engine...more than .5 volts...replace the cable.
less than .5...move to the bottom post of the solenoid, have someone try to start...less than .5 volts...remove the starter and repair or replace it...greater than .5 (this is a rule of thumb here) the problem is in the solenoid and it's likely that you'll read something close to battery voltage)

i'm skeptical of your battery since you say it's greater than 13 volts...12.66 is a fully charged batery...over 13 indicates overcharge or complete failure

 
Quark's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 129
GA

08-17-04, 07:10 AM   #3  
Darn, I was hoping to get it started before work here. Guess, I better try to get prep'd for that. I don't really have anyone to start it for me while I run my DMM along the wires.

Guess, I'll check the wiring for continuity. Also, batter is at 12.70 V...sorry, MM batter was low & reading was jumping. It's not the batter, b/c last night the exact same thing happened, but I just removed the terminals, then replaced them & it cranked right up. Didn't work this morning tho.

After checking the wiring, if it checks out, I guess it'll be time for a new start, no? Or could it possibly be the switch or a relay. I actually can hear my fuel pump.

 
carguyinva's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,147
VA

08-17-04, 07:35 AM   #4  
don't think it's...

...your switch because you are hearing a click at the starter?

you can check the switch by putting your DMM from the little wire on the solenoid to ground...you shoulad have close to battery voltage when trying to crank.

as for testing without someone to help...you could use a remote start switch...connect from battery positive to the little wire at the solenoid

PS...removing the battery terminals and reinstalling them means nothing unless the connections are corroded...clean them to be sure and do the tests like i explained and you'll zero in on the cause of your no-start

 
lorenzanaj's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

08-17-04, 10:58 AM   #5  
lorenzanaj
I suppose just take bat voltage and apply it right to the starter's + and - terminals. Make sure you're cables are thick, maybe use a set of jumper cables. Sounds like an intermittent problem so you'll probably have to do this 100x to make a determination on the starter.

It might be physically difficult to do this unfortunately. If it were me I'd probably just replace the starter.

Jay

 
carguyinva's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,147
VA

08-17-04, 11:32 AM   #6  
unfortunately...

...using jumper cables up underneath the car is somewhat dangerous...and just replacing the starter only proves that if you throw enough parts at a car, you may fix it...that's just not my style

 
Quark's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 129
GA

08-17-04, 05:08 PM   #7  
Ok, thx for the feedback guys.

Long story short, I did a push start on the car, got it running & even made it to work on time

I've got a new starter ordered...good point about the parts thing carguyinva, but after 142K, I don't wanna wait until it does actually zonk out on me. This situation was really not cool today.

The thing is that it actually cranks now. ?? Can someone explain this to me? I'm a real auto illiterate, but could it be the solenoid in this case? At any rate, the starter/solenoid will be replaced.

 
lorenzanaj's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

08-17-04, 07:58 PM   #8  
lorenzanaj
Hey I answered the orig question. Yes the jumper wires would be very dangerous if not done correctly, I was refering to the type gauge wire required.

Throw more parts, that's what you guys do best right? I like your attitude. I hope do carry that same attitude w/ you with customers.

My answer was terse, and frankly probably right. I've read the thread prior to posting and their isn't much to the problem.

battery: check
ignition switch: check
wires: won't cause intermittency check (although loose ones may)
alarm/starter kill: doesn't matter click if heard at starter
starter: most likely and only thing left

==
what's causing the intermittency? My guess is the contacts/motor/solenoid somewhere in the starter eroded.

Jay

 
carguyinva's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,147
VA

08-18-04, 05:56 AM   #9  
most people...

...get very frustrated after throwing parts and still having the same problem and I come from the diagnose it correctly the first time and replace only what's necessary perspective...it also helps people learn. you may be correct that the starter is most likely, but that's a gamble on probability and I think it's pretty irresponsible to give someone that advice, take that chance with your own cars...not someone elses.

Yes the jumper wires would be very dangerous if not done correctly, I was refering to the type gauge wire required.

you may have been refering to guage, but made NO mention of the danger of trying to wield jumper cables under a vehicle...that might constitute a fire hazard...by your own admission, it's VERY dangerous

all in all i'd say that you gave dangerous and poor advice, considering the purpose of this forum is to help people learn...



Throw more parts, that's what you guys do best right? I like your attitude. I hope do carry that same attitude w/ you with customers.

speaking of attitude...have a nice day

 
Search this Thread